revelation

The flooring is by Woodpecker https://woodpeckerflooring.co.uk/product/harlech-rustic-oak/ this is where it states it is suitable for UFH only when stuck down. Through my conversation with woodpecker they have said that it cant be glued to caberdeck and I would need to ply first (I would prefer not to as it will take more time and will be expensive) . The other alternative they mentioned was to 'float' without glueing the joints but to lay on an adhesive underlay https://woodpeckerflooring.co.uk/product/solitec/ , but they did warn that can be tricky to use and once it is down you cant adjust a board.

The engineered floor that I have is tongue and grove. If it was click then it would be fine, but on this, as the joints would be glued if floated they have advised it could be an issue. https://woodpeckerflooring.co.uk/product/harlech-rustic-oak/ this is a link for the flooring, I have spoken to them and they have said they wouldn't advise floating with glueing the joints.

I was thinking of having LVT initially but my fitter advised that It would first need to be plyed then feathered before LVT could be put down.

Is it possible to use a self-levelling type compound on Caberdek type tongue and groove floorboards? We have some engineered floorboards to install that we wanted to glue down. But the manufacturers instructions state that they can not be glued down to Caberdek chipboards. We can't float as we are having UFH heating. Any other possible solutions would be considered.

I appreciate I don't know a great deal about the setting out of UFH etc. However, it has actually been difficult to get consistent information in regards to the setup of the system. The above advice was from an approved Viessmann engineer so thought it may have been possible, guess not.

We have an old 1930, property which has been extended. It has had the front and back re-built so has cavity insulation. The side of the house has 50mm of EWI. This is something that was suggested as a fairly cheap solution, but don't know if this is the best way? You will need hydraulic seperation. Standard mixers are not designed for low-temperature heating. 1 - Ditch the mixers on the manifolds 2 - Use ccts at the boiler 3 - Run weather comp with a Viessman emp1 and secondary flow sensor. 4 - Retrofit room stats on any rooms you find gets too hot This is simple and low cost and low running cost.

Hi all We have had the whole house set up for underfloor heating (no radiators) The GF is in a 50mm screed, the FF and Loft is between joists on aluminium spreader plates. We have a manifold/pump serving the entire ground floor, and one manifold/pump serving the FF & Loft. We have a Viessmann 200W systems boiler, we were planning to run with a low temp from the boiler (to help with modulation) and let that be the temperature that the whole system runs on. My plumber has done a few ground floor in-screed installs but hasn't done it where there are both screed and between joists installations. I have realised that the FF manifold will need to run at a slightly different temperature than the ground floor due to the use of different materials. What would be the best way to set this all up, so it worked as efficiently as possible? We were also looking at utilising Viessmann weather comp on the system is that as simple as just wiring the sensor in or is there more to consider?

I think that is the one I will go with, we want it to conduct heat through easily rather than insulate. However we would like it to provide some sound proofing too.

I appreciate the detail. Our floors are reasonably flat as we had new joists out in and the caber above. The products I was looking at are https://www.carpet-underlay-shop.co.uk/products/thermo-pro-x-underfloor-heating-underlay-for-wood-or-laminate & https://www.everbuild.co.uk/products/adhesives/floor-adhesives/sika-silent-layer-mat/ this comes in 3mm and 5mm.

Hi all We have underfloor heating fitted between joists on our FF and Loft. We have laid 18mm Caber boards over this, and before putting on the engineered wood flooring we were looking for the best underlay to use in this situation to help with heat transfer.

He is, still fully certified and his details are on their website. We are in England.

We had an agreed fixed price for labour, I was provided all the materials (wires, clips, socket boxes etc). He hasn't mentioned the need to pay anything in regards to extra labour. I am assuming it is due to the fact that he has other work which is paying more taking advance of the increase ins demand. Regards

I am no where near that stage unfortunately, I would rather sort this out amicably. He has said that if I take this down a legal route he will refuse to help out at all (meaning where some of the wiring is for lights etc).

Virtually all of our boarding up has been done so a lot of it is not visible. His reason for not completing is that a long time has gone by and that he is not doing' that type' of work any more. Not sure what he means by that. If the delay was an issue he has not mentioned it earlier. He has not answered call for 6 months. Insisting I only text message him, and he wouldn't reply to half of them. It is only earlier this week when I sent a long message telling him how disappointed I have been in his communication and can he come and get things finished that he has said he wont be coming back.

Hi all My electrician has refused to come to finish the remainder of the 1st fix and then the rest of the second fix. There has been a delay of around a year due to issues with getting other trades in. He has said he can no longer come to do it, we had agreed everything via e-mail, he has had 75% of the agreed amount which has been documented. What would be my options in this situation? I assume I can get someone else to finish this but they will factor in the time taken to trace everything that the other guy did, there is a lot of wiring so that could add on significant cost.

move tried the acid. It hasn’t made a difference. guess it wasn’t water.

I don’t think it’s water, the only thing I think is there was some glue spill (d4) that was wiped off shortly after. would the Oxalic Acid leave any mark if I were to try it?

I am not 100% sure it was the glue, I am assuming it was so that would be risky to get wrong.

I’ll try that. It won’t damage or leave any kind of water mark will it?

What grit would you recommend to use?

Ive given the stairs a light 120 grit sanding. And that’s not removed those marks.

Hi all, I am trying to get these ‘stains’ off my oak stairs. I have been cleaning them ready to osmo oil them. I have been really careful not to spill anything. I am assuming these came from when they were fitted, and some of the D4 glue being used got on there and was then wiped off. I was wondering will these show once oiled (I’m using osmo raw). if they will what’s the best course of action? To sand them out? A product that I can use? thanks in advance.

Hi Peter, Thank you for your input, after much considering. I had spoken to kingspan. They had advised that they would be happy for a small amount of insulation below, I gave them the roof build up and they advised how much I could have below.

We already have the 100mm already so will be going ahead with that. I couldn’t see anything on the king span instructions.

Yes. We have 1200 gauge DPM going over the insulation the will staple our pipes down to it.