steveoelliott

Can you drag the files in?

There is definitely a fall and I believe the issue to be the step up to the outlet in the corner. It is this I intend to discuss with another roofer after they’ve of course checked the falls are present etc. It should be feasibly possible to lower the outlet by say 10 mm and solve the issue.

In fairness they just replaced the membrane and that is why I haven’t been more persistent with them rectifying this. But… I would expect any roofer to check the falls and avoid a step up to an outlet and advise prior to laying a new membrane. Lesson learnt on my part, I would in future ask for all this to be checked and insist on their being no / minimal ponding.

Yes I agree with you here... The problem I see already is silt / debris as a result of the ponding water. The way I see it is ultimately I am still not happy and it plays on my mind (however illogical) and the biggest thing to me is the fact that if the roof ever were to leak, it would be horrendous given the amount of ponding water. What is frustrating is how easy it would have been to ensure this didn’t pond prior to laying the new membrane versus doing this retrospectively. In addition it doesn’t pond by design but rather the result of a lack of forethought / attention to detail. That said a lot of folks including those I trust on here have said it’s not a real issue to be concerned about.

The ponding on my newly replaced membrane is far worse than I have seen in these posts... This work was completed last April and whilst (knock on wood) it has been water tight, it does bother me. I now have slabs over the top on pedestals but can see the large volume of water underneath. This roof holds ~40 liters of ponding water; I know as I used a wet and dry vac to clear the water off before laying the slabs / pedestals. The problem in my case I think is the falls aren't brilliant but this is made far worse by a step up to the outlet... previously the outlet was incorporated using the PVC material whereas now it is a solid plastic outlet. I intend to get another roofer to take a look at it in the spring / summer... the previous roofer wasn't interested in correcting this. His words "It will be alright mate". Unfortunately I had paid for the work and it didn't rain for several weeks after this so I wasn't aware of the issue. It's a shame as the roof work is actually pretty neat.

Thanks... I've ordered the sill ends from the place Peter recommended. I'll find somebody locally for the weatherstrip end.

Thanks Peter. The challenge will be getting the correct profile but on the face of it they look right. I'll order a pair and try. I can't find anything for that weatherstrip at the end of the door however. I'll drop them a mail.

Hi, On a house we purchased a couple of years ago a couple of the windows / doors are missing the end caps on the weather strip / sill. I was wondering if somebody could help me find them or a suitable alternative. I guess one could pump some silicon in and smooth it off but it wouldn't be my first choice. In all honesty it's not a huge thing but something that I'd like to correct. Thanks...

I know it was definitely caulked... it had split before and when he did the skirting he tidied it up nicely. Over a few weeks it has split in some places but still fine in others. Obviously this is down to movement and the fact the caulk isn't adequately resistant to it.

You’re right with the first tip… one of my downfalls lol. I think white silicon bead may be the way to go. I wouldn’t attempt myself but might ask the guy that did the kitchen flooring as that has a nice neat bead around the edge.

It doesn’t look great with the gap so might try something else. My main gripe with the decorator was paint splatter all over the wood floor due to not adequately covering the area.

Given the fact that movement both laterally and vertically is a possibility and caulks flexibility is limited, would a silicon sealer be better? My reservation with this is the fact that it is often a pig to remove later, you can’t paint it and it attracts dust. Just wondered if there are any other options.

Hi, I had a decorator do our hallway a couple of months back and unfortunately a lot of areas of caulking between the skirting and floor have cracked. There was caulking in place previously which had also cracked in a similar way. I understand there will be some movement / flex at play here. Is there a product / technique that can avoid this cracking? I am not minded to contact the decorator regarding this as frankly I wouldn't be using him again owing to the amount of paint splatter (tiny little dots of paint) I keep finding on the floor and having to painstakingly remove. Any tips greatly appreciated.

This will give you a better overview of what I have... Mine is a flat roof with parapet walls for a roof terrace. There are now slabs down on it. I was far from happy with mine as water ponds on my roof and it holds ~40 liters that doesn't drain away. Incidentally, I have now had that lead pointing / sealing that this post refers replaced.

These have only had a couple of coats of paint... These are new frames as part of the refurbishment 10-12 years ago... They just sit very tight. I suspect whoever hung them didn't follow your practice Joe.

That would be fine... I figured this is the way it should be done rather than drilling at angles to get some bite into fresh timber.

These are original doors that needed adjustment. I take the point that the stops could do with moving. If that is the only option then I'll take the hit on decorating as and when.

Thanks for your candid feedback... I think I need to find a different chap then.

That's a good point but would have required some remedial decoration etc.

Hi Folks, Coming back to an issue posted on an old thread I had a carpenter recommended to me and had them take look... They adjusted the hinge positioning to move the doors away from stops as they were rubbing / catching on the hinge side when closed. This has now been rectified but I am not convinced (I am a layman) of the method. The screws for the hinges are now at angles which I know will be to get bite into fresh timber. But is this the usual approach? Wouldn't one use dowels etc? On one door surround it has even caused the wood to split with the screw coming out of the timber.

They were already dropped as I changed spots

They were dropped down but brushed around. Out of interest are you a decorator? Where are you based lol

Perhaps just looks worse now it’s had a fresh lick of paint ?

So… Down to who plastered it 12 years ago before we lived there? I will say you can see the brush marks around the spots also but to be honest I don’t really think that’s avoidable.

Hi Folks, I'm having my HSL decorated and for the most part I am pleased with the results so far but a little miffed by the finish on the ceiling when the light catches it. The decorator tells me that this is pretty much unavoidable unless sprayed. I am paying them by the day. From the other end of the landing it looks fine (must be how light catches it) and also looks fine at night with lighting. It has one coat of Armsted matt as decorator said ceilings were in good order so one coat would suffice. Am I being picky here or should I get somebody else to do the ceiling again after they've left as they are adamant (and they may be right) that this is normal and nothing can be done. Thanks...