JohnMo

Don't assume the heat loss is correct check for yourself. I have been told by two companies I needed a 10kW ASHP, will be installing a 4kW on Saturday. Certainly don't install anything bigger than you need as part load performance (average winter day) will suffer. Do you have PV?

China? So we are ok, aren't we! Was in a Scottish ship yard, a year or two ago, full of wind turbines for offshore, all had been shipped from China

Been scratching my head how to set WC curves, one for heating the other for cooling, however I found because the unit was set to auto (auto switching between heat and cool) the menu wasn't visible. However switch to heat or cool and WC menu pop up. Very easy to set, so set a flat curve for cooling 16 deg (well above dew point) flow temp and heating the more normal curve. Will most likely need some adjustment once up and running.

https://coolenergyshop.com/collections/radiators-fan-coils?srsltid=AfmBOoo2Jwpa28-xTPSwQCmxyskK6onq3GBoEW004T_AV7JvfWtJQvZo Here are a couple of photos of ours which heats a summer house (a Myson unit). First is the unit without the cover installed, controller is on the right, a finned radiator panel behind the sheet metal and a linear fan below it. It basically modulates the fan speed to maintain a a set room temp. Way smaller than an equivalent radiator.

With it being upstairs and if doors are open you are likely to have warmer bedrooms, like it not, I would keep it simple. Just install panel heaters in bedrooms or the provision for them, keep the electric UFH in bathrooms. But if you are going for a grant (I just wouldn't bother) they will require all heating by ASHP. But to mess your head up more, are you likely to need cooling upstairs? If so just do fan coils for heating and cooling in bedrooms and bathrooms. Cool Energy do bathroom fan coil towel rails. Do mild cooling keep the water flow above dew point then no need for drains to be added.

Mostly a long run of piping, although getting what looks a good CoP, generally 3+ it wasn't really that good, as we got a big slug of cold water hit the cylinder coil and it cooled the vessel. So small recharge needed to add a disproportionate of energy. So will just leave heat pump to tick away, doing heating and cooling.

Plenty of companies do MEV. You want one that automatically adjusts fan speed for humidity levels with extract vents that open and close automatically also. Then couple that with humidity activated inlet vents either in window or through wall. Do some reading via Google Passivent, Deco, to name a couple. You need to have air movement with cross ventilation dry areas to wet and out the house. To allow this you also need door under cuts or through wall vent grills. I would keep it simple and do dMEV, with all the features mentioned above.

I've just simplified and started to do DHW direct via immersion only. Left all the piping valves etc in place so could revert later, if I wanted, but over the last 3 weeks haven't been shocked by electric usage.

So will be keeping the volumiser, it's in the return line, but after the diverter valve due to because retrofit. So it also had an ESBE diverter, which allowed the volumiser to be bypassed during the production. That bypass isn't needed, so actuator removed and all the insulation tidied up. Before After Not perfect but much better than it was. Still a filling/flushing valve to sort out, but in the difficult basket

Nothing like a good bargain.

I would clear the rubbish that's there already make flat, then leave until spring, then kill every that pokes it head up with an agricultural weed killer. Level as required, leave for 4 weeks and kill everything again. Then try not to disturbed soil to much or more annual weeds will come up. Brambles will keep coming up for so you will need to keep on top of those over time. Then do what you will with it.

No not used one, but I have a pump with a thermostat and a simple timer. Works fine. We have a manifold in the centre of the house, from UVC, then to each wet room. Secondary circulation is only to the ensuite which is furthest away from the cylinder. But with the secondary return off the shower is flowing hot by the time I have undressed a d ready to get in - 20m pipe run in 15mm.

I have some marine ply outside for 5 years, apart from discoloration no real issue. Mould and rot, can all be controlled by good ventilation. If you are off the ground I would add a waterproof layer below the wood as it will not get ventilation and will rot if it gets damp etc

Decided after all to stay simple, DHW by immersion, will have plenty of excess solar in summer that will not be generated due to export limits. So better to use it via immersion than loose it. So wiring is complete. Have retained the smart grid switching to allow flow temp boost if I need it for the summer house, have retained the open source monitor system (energy and performance monitoring). So wiring actually done by me, power cable, SG switching 2 core cable, which then connects to inside house via existing trenched SWA cable (already in place for existing HP), this connects to UFH controller, so I have remote (hardwired) manual temp over-ride for summer house temperature. Once outdoor unit in place it's just power cables and shielded comms cable. A some basic pipe work mods. Image below left to right, isolation switch wiring center and performing), electric meter for heat pump, heat meter for heat pump, Hiaer controller, below that, simple wiring center, then the main control/wiring center for Hiaer heat pump.

Proctor Roofshield is supposed to be UV stable