JohnMo

Keep seeing these threads, and still see zero point with most of what people do with automation. Waste of time and money. But fill your boots. My current lighting scheme, is side lights in the lounge from a normal light switch and 3A wall sockets. Don't need home assistant or shelly or any other smart relay. Got a box of them, all removed, in my cr@p I bought box and was waste of money. 4 years in house, no smoke or heat alarms have ever gone off. They will all be binned at year 10 and replaced with new. If they go there's an issue. Heat alarms in kitchen don't react to you burning your toast.

But it has a modulating circulation pump which will change output based on dT, so not sure that can be fully true. If 14.4kW isn't enough the return temp will always be low. So if the boiler has been range rated to 40% it will constantly chase it's tail. So @EinTopaz what is the boiler range rated too?

So, boiler will have a target flow temperature with overshoot hysterisis. But, it also has a control set point for dT. The circulation pump and boiler modulation will adjust to maintain dT then add more heat as dT closes down. I suspect the heating system return temperature is holding everything back, but this must be at or close to target otherwise the boiler output would not modulate down. So boiler is doing what it should it has a decent run time, it's modulating down, it possibly massive for the duty. Other than a desire to have radiators you burn yourself on, I don't see a real issue.

Do you want a hot house? Is it getting to target room temperature?

Do your add on temp gauges have the sensor in insulation, if not you will read meaningless numbers. To get them to read close to correct, you need thermal paste, aluminium tape and covered in insulation.

So really confused - what is the issue with that? Is your house warm enough ?

Give it a good clean, it could be the plumber never cleaned the flux off. Bit of soapy water and abrasive pad. Dry it off. Then leave for a few days, with the joint wrapped a kitchen paper towel or loo roll around the joint and inspect, it will trap any water and stay wet for ages, rather than just evaporating off. If it's dray and stays dry for a couple of days it was flux. If wet the joint is leaking.

They can't do it, they can only use the information stored under your MPAN. You have to go through correct MPAN database to change address. We had to do similar, call your network installer - DNO (ours was SSEN) and they will point you in the correct direction. From what I remember it was quite straightforward.

As mentioned above a flow sensor needs a system clean, and it needs to be air free. It seems to be the norm to install strainers, which pretty rubbish at stopping small stuff being circulated. You said you put cleaner in the system the other day. I would now look to flush that out, give the flow sensor a good clean. Refill, inhibit and biocide the system (biocide if you do cooling or routinely run below 35/40 degs. While you are at add a decent low flow resistance magnetic filter and delete the strainer.

My be worth reading this, not reread it all but may be something of help https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/30786-lg-therma-v-monobloc-ch14-flow-error/

But this mechanism is to protect the boiler, nothing more nothing less. Short cycling is just a quick way to empty your bank balance. You heat the boiler, pipework and a load of energy goes out the flue and maybe you still have a cold house. If you boiler is in that mode, you maybe have way to many zone, badly set up heating system, or another issue, or all the above.

No. Say your inverter trips out at 253V, grid on that day is already at 250V. On the AC side the inverter, it pushes out grid volts, plus a bit, otherwise it cannot break into the grid. If you take all the voltage drops on the AC side the inverter adds volts to make sure it can break into grid, plus it adds the voltage drop. So on a high voltage day your inverter may trip off. It does care what volts it gets on DC side

Run long cables in DC, so they take any voltage drop on that side, (less of an issue for the inverter - doing on the AC side cause high AC voltage and it could result in the inverter tripping. When I did my install PV rated SWA didn't exist, it now does. I ran my cable on the surface - easy to see and less likely to get accidentally damaged. New panels are generally maxing out at nearer 14A. The panels will generate full voltage even in low light, the amps increases with more irradiance. Find a DC voltage drop calculation online, I used I thing 6mm² for about 40m.

So 12 x 285W panels were £700 and had been installed for just under 2 years. Prices have dropped quite a bit

Get some 3x2 timber. Make up some studs either screw to the rear plasterboard from the other side, or screw to metal studs or, bond the timber to plasterboard. Then insulate (sound proof) and finally plasterboard the shower side as normal screwed to timber studs.