JohnMo

Was compliant with that. Was done as we put up the walls Was compliant with that, new build house Was compliant with that. No other water connected to house

Which bit, that I paid vat up front, or claimed it back?

I used an express can direct in to the normal filling loop. Adey MC1+ Rapide. Just remove the actuators and put back on the decorator caps. You unscrew them anti clockwise to remove.

Wrong thing all together. CO2 is what you need. There are a couple I'm selling on eBay. https://ebay.us/m/MC8XHB

We paid vat on our borehole and pump and filters to contractor. But included in our VAT submission, which I believe got paid.

I wouldn't - you need to insulate well - not an easy job. If you are running glycol they are useful (but why would you) if not they are not needed. Thought you were running an open system, if don't bother installing at all. The control valves push pin down to close off loop. The flow meter screw out to increase flow. No, your 3 port valve does that job for you.

I need to get into my "heating system - useless tatt" box and get some money back.

Exactly - so pay pensions that fair and out a burden on the younger of society. Think saying "are you net contributor to society" to get a vote is just nonsense. So anyone in adult education, doing a degree for example, excluded, training to be a doctor excluded, if your not earning day £40k your excluded etc I'll bow out now, this thread has turned to nonsense - more like Facebook and I'm not on that for good reason.

There was program on radio 4 that looked at pensions etc. it analysed our country and many others. The rounded outcome was, it really doesn't matter what you pay out as a pension, the younger in society pay the same taxes, as either direct tax, or indirect from their pay packet direct to the older family members. So you either allow the state to pay the older in society (collected when they pay taxes throughout their working life), or the younger of society start dipping their hand into their own pocket to support them. Possibly all have to have a granny annex to house them.

Gee this has become a diverted thread. But I think everyone should be allowed to vote, once classed as an adult, except prisoners (they lost the right be part of society). Getting the vote was a hard struggle, not that long ago only land owners got to vote, they were also the MPs and the house of lords Scroungers - they are just a token of the welfare state we live in. Change the rules, change the benefits and times they get them. There are plenty of things to do in this country, they should form work gangs, to get things fixed, to stay entitled to public money - litter picking, bringing in crops, etc. But suspect that's too difficult to manage, and we may hurt someone's feelings.

I came to similar conclusion with our summer house. It runs off the same heating system as the house (UFH). I dumped the UFH in the summer house in the end, and used a fan coil radiator instead. To me you need two different flow temps one for upstairs and a lower one for downstairs. To achieve this you need a mixer downstairs. Two ways to do this An electronic mixer and treat the system upstairs as you would radiators. Your ASHP should be able to control the mixer - you would need to double check. Or you add a mechanical mixer and pump to downstairs UFH and run a fixed flow temperature. Running WC upstairs should give a degree of temperature modulation. If you go this route go for an IVAR mixer set. Like this - the option with the BritTherm is a good option, I used that same pump for a couple of years no issue, nice quite and pulls low watts. https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/ivar-thermostatic-mixing-valve-pump-set-p-1073.html Or https://www.outsourcedenergy.co.uk/product/manifold-mixer-station-wpb/ You want the one that adjusts from 20 to 60

Is this a new install? If so, tell them the UFH not working and needs to be fixed.

To be quite frank, that's good. Lots of zone control can result in boiler running for very short cycles, bad for boiler life and has increased gas consumption. I would start a new thread asking how best to insulate the floor from below. Because you want to stop heat being leached away, but also make draft free.

Didn't at the time, all I knew was the heat loss of the house was supposed be x, but I was actually using twice that. From there it was a voyage of discovery and learning. Plumbers weren't interested, it just the way it is! I soon realised the boiler as in cycle on off mode continually.

Do they leak? if so maybe need to be changed Where is the condensation - if on the glass, it would say your rooms are very cold or the ventilation isn't correct, photos help. Do your windows have trickle vents are they open of closed? You say room temp, is that a single room or all rooms? A thermal camera, make the job quick, a candle flickering if held near a source of draft is a low cost options