JohnMo

You may have an issue with the UFH manifold return leg collecting air? You will need a method to bleed the lower manifold and the piping run going to it. Also the return line you need an expansion vessel and safety group, something like this, after the filter isolation valves https://www.unventedcomponentseurope.com/expansion-vessel-25-litre-heating-fixing-t-bar-system-kit.html/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Copy Unvented Components Europe&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=879559&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17178278874&gbraid=0AAAAADCTOYDo74Yo9HePQuEMKnbFqfg6s&gclid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9JuybXCf4Z5_Ln7s1jNmeqsPnHSW3goCc-0aIt_EChTwzn0-N3iEqenxoC5xkQAvD_BwE

Can't you get a filter in the vertical on the return after the tee? Then you only need one filter/strainer. I would redo the tee before you go through the wall, to make space. Rotate tee horizontal, add filter, then loop up and out off wall or something like that. Your pipe is huge so no issue with pressure drops feeding 3 loops

Yep. You certainly have nothing to complain about if you don't vote, you are obviously happy with everything, anyone throws at you.

So basically all the gaps you see need to be filled. I would look to use a good expanding foam. Some of the vertical filler pieces of PIR, don't look to butt up against the OSB roof cover. All PIR needs to be hard up against that.

It's is actually buried in here

There was a thread on this the other day

Are you sure, you should have CO for carbon monoxide - not CO2 for carbon dioxide. We breath out CO2, cars, boilers and gas hobs put out CO.

Been there done that - used solar predictions to match charge with expected solar generation. Worked sometimes the days it didn't made the whole exercise a waste of time. Have data only in home assistant where it doesn't matter. Now just charge to fixed points 365 days easy no thought, and excess PV gets exported anyway. You really don't want anything that demands internet access to retain functionality. I would also look at Sunsynk.

Your system will have either a valve like this, this is to prevent pump dead heading Or you will have a radiator always open - bathroom or hall?

Think we may need a sketch

I would have it inside. I removed mine, pressure drop was huge. Installed a proper full flow filter. You can alway install something on each leg as it splits.

The return water is at floor temperature, as the system runs longer the return temp increases. Hot Water In | [ Mixing Valve ] ---> Mixed Flow to UFH | Cool Return from UFH So makes sense

No h you need good stable running, 4 mins is pretty rubbish

I would engage a few radiators in the main living space. This will do a few things Give the boiler an open route for flow, provide a temperature dump for excess heat. Should result in longer run times. You may actually find your energy consumption stays the same, may even go down.

15 degs will feel cold. That is worrying already. It basically says the boiler cannot get rid of its heat quickly enough. As the system heats up it will most likely not worse, as every time boiler senses it's tripped on over temperature it starts a timer before firing up again. They are rubbish with copper pipe,if you paint or stick some white tape on it it will read better. A few loops have very little flow, with a mixer a small amount hot water is let in to the mixer and it's mixed with return water from the floor loops. The only water going down the return is return water from the floor equal to the hot water let in via the mixer. The rest of the flow back to the boiler will a min flow valve in your heating.