crispy_wafer

SE - Structural Engineer Topo - Topographical survey

If you are fixing into blocks you won’t need hammer on the drill, I’d be tempted to just try an hss bit somewhere, or just get an sds bit and stick that in the Chuck of your normal drill, an sds machine might just be a bit brutal.

can recommend the the blue bosch expert drill bits, brilliant! saves having to climb up and down ladders to fetch or carry 2 drills, especially when metal and masonry is involved.

A google search for internal steel doors reveals some good results, good pictures too, which give me an idea of what I might be looking for.

👍 for the plan of attack, 🤣 for having to spend time with the family

Seasons greetings. Might be one for the OMG why’s he done that thread… Anyway, the house is coming together very slowly and I’m now starting to really think about doors and stuff. Downstairs is pretty open, no private rooms as such apart the w/c which will have a conventional wooden door liner and door, all other rooms, it’s open season and glazed doors will be the plan. My opening depths range from a couple at 150mm to 300mm through a cavity wall. I don’t mind wooden door linings, it’s just I’d like to consider alternatives. Rather than hit up the tried and tested timber door linings, I fancy something different. Is there a narrow door frame system that would say fix into the opening, allowing me to plasterboard through the openings? I got this idea when I was sat looking at the my external aluminium external door, the frame isn’t very deep, and this look appealed to me. Is there such a door product for inside?

my first hangers were about 300mm ish, as I screwed to joists which were already spaced, then hangers every 600-800mm, mf7 was again about 600-800mm. Odd spacing every now and then to cater for lighting. Top hat was then at 400 centres. Sometimes had to adjust or double up again so lights/mvhr/ac/speakers didnt clash. A handful of my boards I’ve trimmed down to fit the top hat spacing too. So 300, and about 600 from the wall.

For diy use, I wouldn’t have thought so. as long as you keep away/be extra careful round 3rd parties and buildings where insurance may not pay out if they find out you don’t have a ticket. I guess with telehandlers just be careful of ground conditions, weight carried and heights you need to reach. ( pallet of bricks to 1st floor etc). Take care.

And progress on one side

Just popping in to say, a neighbour down the road from me refurbed his bungalow last year, roof off, external block and render away, bricked the outer leaf and did an internal refit too and a smallish extension. Took him 4 - 6 months, but is a builder by trade, so has the benefits of can do, or knows men who can.

We’ve got faith in you big man!

Nah not really, get all the bits lined up expecting worst case before you start. Send the wife out to a spa for the day then crack on. You’ll be done and dusted before it’s time for bacon butties.

aah, i was under the impression that the boss was welded, which failed then covered with gunk to fix. Ok my mistake, cool.

normally takes me two, always chalk the first go to my apprenticeship before giving myself a bollocking, and doing it so at least it looks right...

I know you've got your fancy ceiling and you can get access to that joint whenever, but, surely that bit of waste and soil pipe will nag away at you until it's right? The only issue I forsee in fixing that is chamfering the 4" pipe all round if you wanted to use push connectors instead of solweld on the 4" pipe, unless you have one of those chamfering gadgets of course.