crispy_wafer

Thanks guys, I’m doing ok with bagged, not worried about it going ‘off’ really, it’s just I’ve a small amount of tiles to fit to finish off so I guess I need to master the art of a small batch mix.

I know bagged adhesive is the go to, but, for those moments when you are short on time or just fancy doing part of a job outside of a wet zone and don’t want to deal with cleaning down buckets and mixer is there any tubbed adhesive that can be used? Asking for a friend 😉

as suggested, as long as the fall is in the right direction at the base it'll be ok. The risers can be trimmed carefully so that they appear horizontal, like most things easier said than done though.

I'll do my best... starting from the floor Looking at the Block/Beam Floor schematic, we have Floorspan T4 type beams at 440 centres and suggest Medium density 1450kg/m3 blocks inlaid. Cannot recall exactly what they were, but they were heavy/white and dense jobbies DPM - 300mu 150mm PIR - Ecotherm - comprising of one layer. DPM - 300mu 70mm Cemfloor - no mesh, or fibres Staircase weight - I'm told 204kg. - Wooden Treads * 12 @ 18-20kg each I'm quoted, I havent got as far as having these made. The bottom 2 treads are box like bearing on the floor covering the base, before the rest of the treads that are designed to fit on plates. The plans suggest Structural steelwork to EXC3 Baseplate 600*350 * 8mm - the base plate would be perpendicular to the beams, will certainly straddle over one haha, I won't - Got door casings to fit so that's my next week planned.

there's the 4 in question, you know they are there because the staircase is due to have a wind at the base, and I left a nice big gap for a standard timber staircase to bear down away from pipework....

crikey, good job, well done you! I've got a very rough idea where my pipes are... and they are encased in conduit. So if it comes to it I could cut and excavate, but only really as a last resort.

Large plate as a load spreader to minimise point loads? The bottom tread is going/was planned to be an large oak box type affair, so depending on if the plate is recommended by the SE then its likely to be covered... We'll see

Yeah I realise the only real answer is an SE, but sometimes it's good to talk and get stuff out there even if it means admitting to not thinking something through... Anyhoo where there is a problem, there is often a solution and maybe, just maybe somebody on t'internet may have just come across a problem similar to this in the past. Appreciate the comments nonetheless and I don't take anything to heart. Am big enough and ugly enough to meet problems head on. And yeah a bungalow would solve the problem 🤣.

I feel a bit daft asking, but I'm looking for advice as I may have jumped the gun a little. with my heart leading my head, I've had a Staircase fabricated at a local firm, and whilst I was getting carried away I didn't have any focus on what the staircase is sat on! And now I'm trying to figure if, it'll be alright, or if I need to undertake additional work before attempting to install. My ground floor is Block/beam, 150mm PIR, 70mm Cement based flow screed. The closer I am getting to installing the more I suspect this isn't sufficient to bear the weight of this staircase, but I don't know for sure. To complicate slightly I have 4 ufh pipes running under where the footplate of the staircase would sit - I did have the footplate made larger and bolt holes drilled away from where the ufh pipes are. Are there any clever bods in buildhubland who can advise? Thanks Marek

Interested to know, because we didnt have any that rodding points on the rainwater pipes that surround the perimeter of the build and nothing was raised when they came out at the time, however, I have heard of some BCO’s wanting rodding points where a run exceeds a certain distance. It might be one of those ‘depends who you get’

I've got these in my black book of suppliers have a look to see if what you want is in there https://stairpartsdirect.co.uk/product-category/metal/

Yep the cylinder is already prepped ready with the 3 port valve. No worries on that! My main queries are what to do at the ufh as I need to finalise the pipe work at the manifold. My manifold and pump set was all supplied and purchased years ago, taking for granted that blending valves and pumps were required. But I’m sure I’ve read that these were not necessarily required as design and thinking has evolved. - then I started thinking that perhaps the fixed flow pump in the HP may be able to deal with the ufh, reducing complexity and pipe work faff.

Yeah it’s one of the R32 with fixed flow rates, picked up cheap a few years back. I think the Chofu manual shows the cooling control but tbh I’ve not looked deeply into it, when the place is habitable it may be a point for experimentation.

Thankyou, that advice works for me

My understanding (please correct me if I'm wrong) to protect the ufh circuit and floor coverings from over temperature should mogwai eat cookies after midnight and turn into a gremlin and takeover the system! Seriously though, I'm trying to learn, this bit of my Self build is a new topic for me! I would put it off for a little longer, but I need to get that last bit of wall boarded over so I can the plasterer in to finish the skimming.