crispy_wafer

Yes to brick and block, yes I had a prelim air test done last year, but I cocked up, left a fist sized hole into to the cavity that I’d forgotten about. The air test did highlight a number of areas for attention though, mainly with air leakage around and behind the roof straps, and a velux which needed some extra attention. My build is a dormer style build, warm roof. So well taped up, membrane down over the wall plate, soudatight onto blockwork membrane stuck into this and painted over, soudatight liberally painted above ceilings, joists foamed, ct1 sealed and taped at penetrations through blockwork. Windows all taped up to inner leaf, blockwork again painted with soudatight and then the tape painted over on the inner leaf with soudatight. Basically anywhere I had tape touching blockwork, there was soudatight before and after. Parged with British gypsum soundcoat to all block walls. Cable holes or pipe holes made with a core drill, then a waste pipe used as a sleeve, foaming glue used on pipe before shoving it in the hole, foamed on the inside and painted over with soudatight again. When cables passed through the pipe would be filled with our favourite illbruck foam then the ends would be ct1’d or ebt’d, and finally a kaflex epdm what’s’it stuck over for good luck! I’ve plasterboarded the place myself dot and dabbed 1 bag to 2 boards, picture framed the boards, stripes of adhesive at 400 and 800 all round the sockets etc. Tried my best, probably not as bob on plumb as a pro, but I’m not far off! Reckon the windows and doors will be the weakest link, round the seals. I first spoke to AB 18 months ago, but couldn’t come to terms with the cost, but as time has passed and I’ve now got to the point where I’ve got a spread coming in Jan, I needed to jump one way or the other, so sod it we’ll miss out on our Christmas trip to the sunshine and the lad’s ski trip just got cancelled by the school so that will cover the unbudgeted cost.

I've certainly taken my time getting to this point, i cant keep putting it off! 🤣

Will be letting the AB guys loose on my build in the next few weeks. I've Parged, taped, soudatighted and done a pretty decent job I think. AB will be the icing on the cake before everything gets skimmed over.

double boarding the wall will give you a bit of extra depth, alternatively a more expensive option - install a digital shower (Mira platinum + other brands)

Bit of a legacy issue here, bit of a cock up during the build means that my first floor is at different levels, a section when drop measured is between 18mm and 23mm lower. I've now finished kicking the can down the road and it's time to do something. The flooring that was put down is the Egger or Caberdek type grey topped boards which are 22mm? It's about 30m2 to go at. What options do I have to bring the levels up? We'll be carpeting upstairs if that makes any difference to a solution. Would something like no more ply and then a suitable SLC be the way to go?

When i knocked mine out, i spoke to huepar about whether I could adjust it. They asked me to send a video of me running the calibration check, they agreed it was off and sent me a new one FOC, it was within a year of buying it, but still, that surprised me.

There’s enough on this forum to get a good grasp of what to do, if you are minded to give it a shot. in fact, I remember reading the forum in it’s early days there were many buildhubbers mapping out schematics and getting hints, tips and advice on how to go about it. I won’t be rude and say that it’s just a load of pipes, because beyond there’s much more to it, and it does require thought and planning, but like above, sometimes just gotta back yourself get tooled up and get stuck in. Then have a good holiday with the savings, or put the money towards something in the build where you definitely need a professional pair of hands. I would add, that with the technology and systems available on the market today it’s easier for the DIY’er to certainly tackle the basics.

initial thoughts are - I'd remove the bricks and the pir that's up against the screed, get some xps (marmox/jackoboard) etc cut and bond a couple of layers together so it's like a long plank put that into the cavity, create an upstand against the outer leaf and bond that to the plank you dropped into the cavity then fill with screed. Alternatively bond more layers of xps up to just under the screed level and pour some self leveller over it.

I do like them Beadmaster socket and switchbox covers, my only problem was cutting the holes for the backboxes too tight for them to fit so I had to spend a morning wizzing round trimming and cleaning up.

Yep, albeit on a pre-plumbed HW cylinder that never appeared. Easy and painless for me once I'd opened a claim and forwarded any communications I'd had with the supplier.

I'm looking at this and thinking if it would it be too simple to just forget the rafter extensions, insulate with PIR Board under the rafters then screw 3*1 or 4*1 timber through to the rafters above to accept plasterboard?

no, but you can fit a fan coil unit which uses the warmed ( or cooled) water from your ASHP CH system.

Thanks for that, I've got an overflow filler and a deck mounted showerhead. My main grumble is trying to reduce the amount of control clutter on the bath edge. Think I'm going to concede on this TBH and just look out for some dainty levers.

Anybody used a Mira or aqualisa digital control as a bath filler control, to be used with an overflow filler? Positive/Negative thoughts. For me I'm not overly bothered about the smart features, but rather the less cluttered look on and around the bath, which I'm aiming for. Ended up submitting twice as I backed the browser and submitted again - @mod please could you delete one

Anybody used a Mira or aqualisa digital control as a bath filler? Positive/Negative thoughts. For me I'm not overly bothered about the smart features, but rather the less cluttered look on and around the bath, which I'm aiming for.