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crispy_wafer

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    IT is my trade, Dad and husband,
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    Lincolnshire

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  1. I did Copper tails out of manifold to into hep couplers and 10mm sockets here. You can buy brackets like they use for UFH manifolds, cant see why this wouldn't work.
  2. Just sealing up of the blockwork, filling up the visible pores and sealing over the mortar joints of the inner face of blockwork with either a product called sound coat, or a sand and cement mix. Not needed if you go float and set (wet plaster). But if dot and dab its a secondary measure to cover your backside if the brickies haven’t been quite as diligent as they should have been. A couple of days labour for me and the mrs, but if paying someone I may have thought twice about it, doesn’t need to be neat!
  3. 🤣 I Parged, then I d&d because i didnt have anything better to do with my time. As above, ensure enough adhesive in the correct places. Work out your main hanging points so extra adhesive can be added here.
  4. Like what you’ve done there, save’s having to paint the ceiling I suppose. Pretty sure you can get sensors that mount horizontally, saves having to prop up that tile at the back.
  5. Not sure I’ve ever had a cupboard that I couldn’t see into,the only caveat I could think of is perhaps as above - under the sink, or those cupboards in corners where you may need to look round a corner if you didn’t want to open them up fully. So perhaps limited specific ‘that’s a good idea’ use rather than a blanket install.
  6. I guess it depends on the building design, however your neck of the woods flemish bond would be the traditional go to. Mortar colour and finish style makes a big difference too.
  7. From that picture I think I’d lean towards boxing it out 25mm or 50mm with roof battens to create a void on the short edge of that corner.
  8. How many bathrooms/en suites will the unit be catering for? 6PE would be fine, but if you have the same number of bathrooms as bedrooms I’d probably go to an 8PE.
  9. Another rewatec unit here, my self install post is about somewhere. Didn’t go much into the science of choosing. Remember something about the blower not running 100% of the time so marginal energy saving. Those with a more enquiring mind could probably work out the long term costs of running. Me? Too worked up with the methods of how to install correctly 🤣
  10. Usually friction fit between the studs, nothing special required. Just cut ever so slightly oversize
  11. I can see the gravity forces on that rabbit hole @pocster pulling you in. Before you know it, you'll have binned off that receiver for a processor and separate power amps 🤣
  12. good idea, can you talk us through the method as this is one of those jobs where having a good repeatable method pays dividends, especially when 9/10/11 doors to play with
  13. I set all mine on stud walls to be 2.1m high rough, after 25mm floor covering, and 35mm frame and 10mm gap at bottom, there is plenty of room…. To be honest for a standard door i probably made them too tall, but, the remaining gap is nothing that wont be covered with architrave. Door openings is something I should have asked more questions about rather than bumbling through, as it confused me greatly.
  14. And… if you haven’t already have a browse of avforums.com the forum bit, and classifieds
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