crispy_wafer

When i knocked mine out, i spoke to huepar about whether I could adjust it. They asked me to send a video of me running the calibration check, they agreed it was off and sent me a new one FOC, it was within a year of buying it, but still, that surprised me.

There’s enough on this forum to get a good grasp of what to do, if you are minded to give it a shot. in fact, I remember reading the forum in it’s early days there were many buildhubbers mapping out schematics and getting hints, tips and advice on how to go about it. I won’t be rude and say that it’s just a load of pipes, because beyond there’s much more to it, and it does require thought and planning, but like above, sometimes just gotta back yourself get tooled up and get stuck in. Then have a good holiday with the savings, or put the money towards something in the build where you definitely need a professional pair of hands. I would add, that with the technology and systems available on the market today it’s easier for the DIY’er to certainly tackle the basics.

initial thoughts are - I'd remove the bricks and the pir that's up against the screed, get some xps (marmox/jackoboard) etc cut and bond a couple of layers together so it's like a long plank put that into the cavity, create an upstand against the outer leaf and bond that to the plank you dropped into the cavity then fill with screed. Alternatively bond more layers of xps up to just under the screed level and pour some self leveller over it.

I do like them Beadmaster socket and switchbox covers, my only problem was cutting the holes for the backboxes too tight for them to fit so I had to spend a morning wizzing round trimming and cleaning up.

Yep, albeit on a pre-plumbed HW cylinder that never appeared. Easy and painless for me once I'd opened a claim and forwarded any communications I'd had with the supplier.

I'm looking at this and thinking if it would it be too simple to just forget the rafter extensions, insulate with PIR Board under the rafters then screw 3*1 or 4*1 timber through to the rafters above to accept plasterboard?

no, but you can fit a fan coil unit which uses the warmed ( or cooled) water from your ASHP CH system.

Thanks for that, I've got an overflow filler and a deck mounted showerhead. My main grumble is trying to reduce the amount of control clutter on the bath edge. Think I'm going to concede on this TBH and just look out for some dainty levers.

Anybody used a Mira or aqualisa digital control as a bath filler control, to be used with an overflow filler? Positive/Negative thoughts. For me I'm not overly bothered about the smart features, but rather the less cluttered look on and around the bath, which I'm aiming for. Ended up submitting twice as I backed the browser and submitted again - @mod please could you delete one

Anybody used a Mira or aqualisa digital control as a bath filler? Positive/Negative thoughts. For me I'm not overly bothered about the smart features, but rather the less cluttered look on and around the bath, which I'm aiming for.

Pradovent trimless, slightly more expensive, but look a bit more forgiving for installation. My plenums we installed a bit tight to joists so the ergovent became too much of a challenge, so I’m going to give the Pradovent a shot.

Another happy user with Starlink, anywhere between 180-290Mbps down 25Mbps ish up. No issues with it at all. Lad plays his games over it, fifa or whatever it's called, fortnite etc. Latency is not an issue.

OSB + PB, or just Fermcell, skim it and swallow the cost. Make it a nice space to use and work in, and give the walls the ability to hold tools/bike racks/ladder hangers.

I wonder if Ubiquiti would have something, without looking I dont know. But for the record I've just put in a couple of Wave Pro @ work to bridge a LAN to two in buildings that are on different sides of a road. Most bridge units use POE so the wired LAN is made use of for more than just comms.

looks logical, the cone chimney adapter seals the flue and directs any falling soot or detritus into the fire chamber. Regards smell, I'd probably make sure you have a flue temp sensor, and make sure there's a carbon monoxide sensor in the room. My stove smells a bit if I'm burning too hot for too long.