tanneja

We went for 176 II, the build is still ongoing so not finished and inside, but I don't feel the view to outside is impacted relative to the regular TG windows. The degree to which overheating is avoided is unknown, hopefully it should be as expected by the glass metrics. My problem elevations are east and south, so if west is the main issue, I shouldn't have as many problems.

We have Ajax and feel that what @joth has to say summarises my experience accurately, it is a very simple to use system, Just be advise that not sure self install is permitted in their business model, despite if you go wireless it simply involves getting the app and using QR codes to link everything.

My Camelglass liquid metal door should go in Monday, will post a picture if we are successful.

Would installing a ceiling fan in the bedroom mean enough perceived cooling?

On the opposite side of one of the (block) walls of our planned cinema room is the under stairs cabinet. It will house the UFH manifold, energy smart meter and a fuse board. The cupboard will have a door accessible from the hallway. Would it be nonsense to have a standard air transfer grill from the cinema to the understairs area and then try to muffle the sound in there with some kind of soft products on the underside of the stairs, with the airflow permitted underneath the under stairs door? All of this follows on from the cinema room being air sealed besides an MVHR inlet. Am considering brining an MVHR extract into that room to make it self contained, but this also feels like an option.

Which brand / models did each of you go for? I am guessing I could save money with corded if need be, and presumably it is the blade quality that largely dictates the cut?

@jack I was referring to your corner detailing, everything looks really sharp. To the layman its impressively clean with no visible pin holes etc. Thank you again for sharing.

@jack your workmanship is superb! I see what you mean about the exposed edge unevenness, presumably that is down to the layers and not you. For what it is worth, to me it doesn't detract from the finish.

Hi Jack, did you make 19mm ply window boards yourself, and if yes, do you have finished pictures? Edit, sorry read your first part of your message. if you feel happy to share any of your furniture creations, I would be very grateful to see the overall style you have achieved, I offer my apologies if it is an invasive request. Trying to negotiate 19mm oak faced ply window reveals (all the way around, with the ply layers on show) to other half, any situational pictures of the material may be helpful.

I thought I would cap off this thread to say we replaced the floor with 25mm ply and it is now entirely silent.

From my perspective, the range available from Akupanel was far larger, twice as many variants as of Acupanel (including concrete effect). If comparing the standard overlap colours, I agree very similar, I observe thicker veneer on the Akupanel samples I have, and more texture to the grain, but small details.

@Dan F no prices ? M TV room is right next to the MVHR closet, I hope I have left over ducting and my eventual choice of distribution box has a spare port, as I can't imagine these ATUs will be cheap. They don't seem to have lots of maze inside them, I expected more. Our room is also a masonry wall, making retrofit a bit more of a job. Thank you for the links

I was considering adding an MVHR extract in the TV room (it already has a supply) so that it could have the sealed door. Acoustic air transfer units seem effective from a youtube video I saw, but all DIY projects rather than a bought product.

I have Ac and Ak both in front of me. Both nice people to deal with, but to my taste the range of Akupanel is far more exciting. Only downside is Akupanel don't do any 3m lengths.

The ceiling areas we are covering are on the ground floor, part of which is flat roof area, part has a bedroom above. Can these go straight onto the joists, or do I need to have plasterboard above? We haven't boarded yet, but we are space constrained on ceiling height, at the moment we would be around 2.3m in these areas of the room if we boarded and surface mounted. Additional battons would probably mean I could touch the ceiling on tip toes (I'm 5'11") which isn't a disaster but not my preference. No PB has obvious lack of mass issues with the ceiling between the bedroom and downstairs, but we went for 25mm plywood floor in the bedroom which is dense itself, and plan generous underlay. Unsure if it would be a reg requirement to have PB under either of the bedroom or flat roof, or whether would be inviting noise permeation from outside to forego the PB. Obviously need to pink PB around the steels. Unsure how to visualise the class C absorption from simple surface mounting, that is probably still good to have? The akupanel / woodup / lingosi from Gregg are just stunning in comparison to other company samples.

For what it is worth, I am far more impressed with the woodup Akupanels, also excellent guy Gregg who has been really helpful. Am certain to have in our open plan area to hopefully capture echos. Thank youfor the replies.

I plan to go with controlissblinds.co.uk. Have had email exchanges with Chris Brooks, by far the most capable person I found in my research, and price seems ok to me, unsure how it compares with your quote.

For same number of units and drawers, i have found supply only Leict units to be 3x the price of DIY kitchens (8k vs 24k). I can't imagine how I could ever justify that upcost to myself, even if we plan to live here +20 years

@ryder72 can I ask, if Siematic is a bit pricey, which brand would you consider better value for money but still quality beyond the typical British kitchen? I got a quote for Leicht, it was far in excess of our planned budget. Ideally I would like a poket door pantry unit, which is what brought me to Leicht as they made one, but it was well beyond my means.

@ProDave I totally agree, but there isn't anywhere. We have tried laundry in a bathroom and the result was carnage, and the new bathroom will be smaller. Is there any resaonable way to box in and sound proof free standing appliances?

Wanting to reduce the likely ambient noise produced by the washer and dryer once they are installed in the open plan living area. One thought is rather than a free standing "on show" washer dryer, or integrated, would be oversized base units that have the necessary depth and width to house free standing appliances, but could add sound insulation around the units. Had planned to get the kitchen from DIY Kitchens. This requirement, plus our want for a full height pocket door pantry (not done by DIY kitchens) is bring is a level of bespoke that I can't afford, or if done by the team of builders, the finish is a bit unknown. You wouldn't see the side of the units, so could perhaps select a 700 or 800 base unit from DIY kitchen and have it not offered back to the wall, would 'just' mean deeper worktop over the base unit, but also probably double doors per unit rather than one nice door over the unit. If anyone can set me straight, I would appreciate it. Couldn't design another place for the utility in our retrofit unfortunately.

It would impact the look, but if we could find a suitable accent colour (black or brushed metal perhaps) I was thinking of using a metal edge profile, but they might be a step too far and lose the aesthetic https://lilleytileandstone.co.uk/schluter-schiene-m-edge-profile-m-brass-h-8mm-l-1-mtr-s.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6o2U18iU7wIVqejtCh2uYAeiEAQYBCABEgIkHvD_BwE

@joth really curious how this ends up for you, my better half would really like to go for sapien stone, everything else feels like a compromise, but it just looks so thin and the edge detail concerns me. Ours would also need a sink cut-out, but maybe an overmount sink solves that

Thames Valley Windows seem to have done a good install for us

@Jas142 I have alud clad upvc, as best you know, would that solvent be of any risk to the alu cladding?