eniacs

I did mine DIY. Not sure id recommend it though, especially with the size of the grant as it is. Surely you can find a cheaper installer, thats still good?

Those are Innova units. Same as what i have but rebadged to panasonic. Lovely units, im very happy with mine.

Designed the system for it. Rads are off in cooling mode. Fan coils designed for cooling and condensate collected. My fan coils are designed for a flow temp of 7 deg. I tried higher temps but couldnt get the house temps down. Gave up and reduced the flow temp lol, luckily my pipes are fully lagged. This must be hard to police.

I had this exact problem with mine as well. I posted it on the heat pumps group and had 30 odd replies saying theirs was fine. The manual for mine stated hot water at 60 deg i think, with my old gas boiler producing 65 this was fine, but the 55 deg the hp produced it wasnt quite enough. I've since searched high and low for any that dont say high temps for the hot water and not found anything so gave up and blocked up the cool water inlet by around 50%. Works fine now.

I have been using my mitsubishi in cooling now for about a month. All pipes lagged with type q insulation and fan coil rads in use that are designed for cooling. We also have normal rads in place for winter heating in a few rooms, these are totally useless at cooling, they create pools of condensation and the cold water only flows in the bottom of the rad. Fan coils are perfect for it however. If installing a new heating system and you are well insulated, may be worth adding to create cooling in the summer.

Thanks Joth, yes that is my problem. The bedrooms are too warm in all but the coldest months. Heavy insulation and low response times mean that the only way is to heat the house almost constantly and then cool the bedrooms when required. I should have done insulation in the floors but didnt think i would need it. The heating and cooling wont last long, mid april ish we will stop heating at all. Then the ecodan will be on cooling the whole house until september at least i expect. What is the ecodan modbus interface?! I am a machine programmer so could make some outside controls but time is always an issue. I also have now found that cooling times can be set in the menu. They must have been hidden when i looked prior to starting the cooling mode.

Just starting to use the cooling feature of the ecodan and would like really to set say cooling all night till say 5am, then heating for the morning for a few hours then cooling in the afternoon to remove the heat and then heating in the evening to the living rooms then onto cooling again for the bedrooms overnight. However this is not possible to set i dont think via the FTC6 controller. Has anyone seen/found an alternative? Thanks.

See photos. The gismo is a water flow meter for a heat pump. It has the same fitting as a water meter would do - 1 inch bspp plastic threads. I've bought unions which use a fibre washer and these seem to sit ok and look like it will seal. The problem is the unions came with a 3/4inch bspp male thread. I've bought a BSPP female to 28mm compression fitting, but there doesnt appear to be anywhere for a washer to go, so how on earth can I seal this? Or have I bought the wrong fitting? Note - I've already destroyed 1 flow meter getting this wrong... Thanks

Absolutely this. The best form of heating is insulation. Insulate your house until the heating system becomes small and unimportant...

Twist your maths checks out. Im just parroting what ecodan say for their heat pumps. It may be they are limited by their heat exchangers? Or is it their experience determining that flow rates like that arent possible? I dont know. What do other manufacturers say for the primary piping sizes i wonder? I did think you could fit a larger unit, and it would just modulate to a lower power as soon as it saw the flow rate it was getting.

I have the same heat pump. I see this sort of loss when it starts to do a tank heating cycle. The 28mm pipework holds a lot of water that has after some time dropped to a low temperature. When a tank heating cycle is called for, the first thing that happens is the tank temp drops a lot as this cold water circulates through the tank, stealing its heat. Is it this? It looks like a few minutes later the flow temps jump and the tank is reheating.

Yes i would pick around 8.5kw as if the manufacturers are correct - which presumably they are, then 35 deg water cannot flow 11kw in a 28mm pipe. Repiping everything and new rads were a significant hassle. However the primary pipework and internal parts of the system (pump/electronics etc) were larger and more work than i first thought. In option 1, why not just replace the system with 1 large heat pump. Virtually all heat pumps do 35deg or 55deg. The only change it looks like is you would need an hour or 2 somwhere to heat the hot water

I just DIY'd a heat pump install and I wouldn't recommend it for anyone but the hardiest of DIY'ers. I have a similar setup to you, however I have a dedicated pool heat pump. I refitted all my radiators and all new piping so it was very involved. One thing to note, I have an 8.5kw heat pump and the manufacturers specified 28mm, for their next size up (11kw) they specify 35mm. So the sizes you are proposing may require larger piping than you expect.

They have 2 speed settings, 1 is quiet, 1 is audible. But they also have an auto setting which i prefer, when the temp is low, the fan is fast and then slows a lot as it approaches the set point. Think this will be the best setting, i dont it being audible if its cold in the room. I used tectite copper push fit for most of it, with plastic push fit where necesary. The 28mm was all copper though and there were a couple places i couldnt use 90deg's. God knows how much copper ive put in. Theres a small mountian of the old stuff to take to the scrapper!

Imported from italy... heating/cooling and good ratings and good quality. Got stung for VAT twice though and high delivery cost. See here: Theres photos of my units further down that page.