farm boy

When my Brickie did mine he marked a line round outside of flue onto the lead tray then marked another line about 25mm further in then cut the round hole and dressed the lead up with using bits of scrap timber and pliers until liner fitting through the hole. The tray was then put on the chimney with the lead up stand dressed round the out side of the flue liner. Mine has two trays with a pot with flaunching and a Brewers stainless bird cage/cap . Any small amounts of water that enters the inside of the flue is quickly dried out by the draught coming up the flue. It is important which way the lead trays are folding against the chimney. Depending on your situation, the bottom tray should be folded up on the inside of the roof and down on the outside to take any water in the brickwork to the outside. The peter scholey utube videos are very helpful. My flaunching had to Be done twice as the first time it was -4 and the excessive anti freeze chemical in the mortar made it go off too quick and crack.

Thanks for the replys. The prognosis is to seal it. I think this also means that I had better tape the joints on the loft side of the foil backed plaster board on the horizontal first floor ceilings as well.

I have a natural vented house with some short sloping ceilings on the first floor with 100mm pir between the rafters, then 50mm pir/ plasterboard and skim coat over the top. Is it worth me sealing the joints between the rafters and the pir with foil tape before putting the 50mm/board layer on or is this a bit over the top.

I don't think I will be leaving any matches or kindling wood in the welcome pack, not sure I will sleep at night. ha ha.

I am self building a holiday let and have sat on the fence when choosing what fuels the heating but working towards ashp now. Will have log stove also and a electric towel rail on a time lag in the bathrooms. With underfloor heating on ground floor and in bathrooms, even if I went for lpg or oil it would still take a long time to get up to temperture. On a steep learning curve like most self-builders.

I am in a simliar positon and have been sitting on the fence between oil, LPG or ASHP for a long time. My present plan is to install the plumbing side of the heating myself to ASHP spec (UFH groundfloor and bathrooms and oversize rads bedrooms.) and carry on sitting on the fence until the last moment. Presently having first fix electrics done.

Thanks for putting the photos on. I can see you used the pre formed sheet pipe clip system, I notice some people put another layer of polythene over the insulation and then use the clips that spike into the insulation. Not sure which system to go for, I guess it comes down a compromise between the price of materials and ease of fitting. Most of my pipes will be at 100mm spacing so I can see the pre-formed sheet saving a lot of work.

I ve just found the labc ufh guide online. I now understand what you mean. Thanks. I ve had a few prices from ufh online sellers and they all included a roll of perimeter insulation.

Does that mean I only need it at the screed edge

I am in a similar position to Homer92 , in the new year I am planning to install 2 x 75mm celotex then 85 screed to get to the right level. I figure the 75mm will be easier to handle and cut than one 150mm layer. I intend to put the layers of insulation in an overlapping pattern. Putting the hot and cold plumbing pipes in a groove in the insulation sounds good but does not allow future access or adaptation. We had a builder do an extension on our existing house about five years ago and he made a conduit out of timber on the sub floor DPM then a thiner depth of the insulation and screed over top. Contains a waste pipe and hot and cold feeds with access either ends under kitchen units and at stack. I don't intend to fit a perimeter edge as my full fill cavity goes right down to the concrete sub floor to overlap. I cannot see multiple layers make a difference it’s the total depth that counts. Not intended to tape my DPM and DPC together but just use a generous overlap, over 200mm on the perrimeter edge.Everyone has a different situation on here. Looking to buy my insulation before New Year in case of price increase.

I've completed both the Jeremy Harris heat loss spreadsheet and the BRE low temp calculator available online with similar results. It is great having the spread sheets to play with, my house (near to first fix stage) is well insulated brick and block with no MVHR so my end KW figure is higher than most on here. I have a 75m2 floor on the two storey house envelope giving the Total daily heat loss power for minimum OAT (W) =5448w This could go higher as so far I have only entered 2019 met office figures on the local monthly temp tables i am looking to have radiators on the first floor and am getting quite big figures for the bathrooms radiators on the BRE calculator with a Design flow temperature of 45c Does anyone have experience with first floor radiators with a ASHP and what temperature to run them at? Another Exell calculator can be found by doing a google search: mcscertified heatpump calculator (not done this one yet) I hesitate in putting too much on here as you cannot seem to edit or delete it afterwards.

Sorry I thought I had replied to this thread some time ago I have nowhere to go on this problem. I am not prepared to move the lintels up as too has much been built above. I do remember my brick layer asking me about the door heights but I did not understand the significance of the measurements at the time so as always the buck stops with me. Fortunately finished internal door heights are not regulated.

I like perfection but rarley achieve it myself unless I done something five times before. I struck lucky with my brickies who were 95% good, but roofer one was only 80% good, so got roofer two in to snagg but he was only 50% good, so ended paying roofer two full amount for half a job then doing it again myself. Roofer two even bought waste in from another site which is a definate "no no"

Looks like that's the way to go, with a pre plumbed cylinder there would not be a lot to get wrong.

Still have not made a commitment on my heating, would like to go for ASHP but had some higher than expected quotes back. All over 11k and thats just for the ashp and tank. Sure "rake off" going on with the pricing which i just don't like. If you fit your own ASHP how does one get the unveted cylinder installed, don't they need to be signed off by a cerftified plumber to pass building regs

I ve installed a isokern flue on my self build. I cast a slab with a hole in with correct diameter, then my surport plate sits on top the slab in the hole. I think the stainless ataptor sits between the surport plate and the concrete liner surport block so you only see it from below. Hope i did it right, too late now!

I am just about to order my stairs and one of the measurement’s asked for is the finished floor to finished floor dimension. I first checked out the access threshold on my approved document M access door, working out my finished ground floor level to be 15mm below the threshold. I checked the other two doors and threshold are all within 10mm of each other so thought no problem. Having slept on the matter the next day I thought I had better check the finished ground floor level in relation to the internal door and fireplace lintels. Whoops! no way was I going to achieve my 15mm disabled access threshold as my lintels are about 40mm too low. The highest I can get with the finished floor is about level with the external door reveal, but with some dodgy trimming of the internal doors I might just get some 10-12 mmm flooring onto the external door reveals. So when your brick layer asks you how high do you want the ground floor door lintels? Do not reply with "what do you normally do?" something that is decided quite early in the construction can certainly come home to roost later. Make sure you do a internal levels 1:10 drawing giving fine detail even down to the packers under the external door frame. Despite my best intentions in the design I now will have a small ramp bought of the internet inside my disabled access doorway

As mine is a new build I may have check with building control on a DIY ASHP fitting. But I like the idea of the lower up front cost as with most self builds money can always be spent in another part of the build.

How easy was it to install? I am not sure but i think that outside of the RHI scheme ASHP are unregulated so any one can fit one.

Interesting reading. I am doing a140m2 self build. Got to make final decision on heating in next couple of months. Original choice was oil boiler with underfloor heating on the ground floor and rads upstairs.Now considering oil boiler first with the plumbing to heat pump spec. Then ashp later as pot of money getting lower every day. Other trades have told me that all the heat pump quotes are being priced to the subsidy and i would be better installing myself and not claim any subsidy. Anyone done this?

I am doing a lot work myself but getting trades in to push things on when required, the story so far: Demolished old house summer 2017, piled raft foundations installed done Aug 2017 due to adjacent trees, treatment plant and drainage field installed autumn 2017, Bricklayers on site end of March 2018, beams and joists June/July 2018, bricklayer back to take up to wall plate August 2018, Roof trusses delayed, finally lifted on 29th November 2018, January brick layer back to take chimney up though roof frame, Roofers arrived mid-February last tile (plain tiles) installed April 18th 2019, PIR insulation installed on sloping ceilings May 2019, first floor windows installed June 2019, soffit and facia July, august 2019, gutter September/October 2019, porch roof timbers December 2019, nogging for first floor walls and some ground floor windows January 2020, currently snagging the roof, chimney leak, window in wrong place etc. hope to get secure and scaffold down soon. Do I wish I never started? Yes on some days. Best trade so far: the brick layer, now retired I was his last build. he was full of experience. "why do you want to do that?" he would say. the house is better because him. If I did it again, I would do it differently, may be the errors would be different as well! (140m2 two storey house)