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About tommyt

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  1. Different fitting brands use differing thread sizes and there is no standard 22mm compression nut thread size unlike 15mm compression fittings which are (almost) always 1/2” BSP. But you can easily go to a BSP thread by using a 22mm to Male/female iron in whatever thread size you need.
  2. 3 tonnes direct from Wales. And we’re having to give it away for free including 4 days labour for me and another person plus re erection of the scaffold due to the original install mess up. So I hope we’re getting it cheap.
  3. Quick update on this. I managed to get a vague answer from UKPN regarding going under a ditch, basically just quoting me the standard depth of 450mm for garden land or footway and then added “maybe just go a bit deeper just to be sure” I had also asked if I could have the new pole I need £955 or even just the extra cable stays that are apparently needed on the existing pole and that are quoted at £304! installed privately as I have a friend who runs a private contract company doing repairs for UKPN so has a Unimog with hiab and auger onboard and could do the whole job really, but I was told no due to the need for all new poles to be marked on records and labelled/numbered correctly. So I will now be going down a longer route, still needing to cross the ditch but in a different location but laying the duct myself and building a temp meter and supply box in a place where I can probably leave it as permanent. As many others on here seem to have done.
  4. Changing resin on these is pretty fiddly due to the small ports. They use a packed bed and it is blown in at the factory so you’ll never put back in as much as comes out. Being a packed bed though makes it more easy to identify resin degradation. If the resin has become damaged by chlorine from mains water it tends to break down and expand. Once you’ve got the resin wet and flushed, turn off the water supply again and using the method Jeremy noted to manually regenerate you can relieve the water pressure inside. Then just remove the filling ports and if resin starts rising upwards out of the hole then it’s had it. If it stays at the lower edge you’re good to go. I’m on a job this week adding 325 litres to each of 9 2500litre softener vessels which were under filled when built and we are literally just pouring bags of Purolite straight into the 6” wide necks from above whilst standing above on a scaffold.
  5. The surveyor mentioned it was a definitely a possibility but that they would mole it and that it would obviously cost more than cable straight across to a new pole so I discounted it without seeing the actual cost. I may try a quote from a private contractor to do all services and see what their ideas are.
  6. Thanks both for those answers. Given me some more food for thought. I have emailed the surveyor to ask for the spec to go under the ditch. Will be getting water surveyed soon so will see what they suggest. Phone pole is also terminated at neighbouring house but much closer to our plot so could easily go across at high level but again if I can get it in a duct at the same time as other services all the better. At the speed I’m getting things done round here though 6g internet will be out and I won’t need BT.
  7. I have had a design from UK power networks for my electric connection today. The nearest LV pole is on the verge (Country lane) 30m or so down the road and it terminates there. The last house it feeds is the neighbour. 10m further up the road is a 33kv HV pole with a transformer overhead feeding the 2 houses further up. Apparently the transformer would need upgrading to feed my house and quite costly and then mole under the ditch into our property. The 33kv line from the this pole goes into ground and crosses the ditch from the verge and is then buried inside our boundary and runs out along our hedge line but would need a substation built to tap off from it. What they have suggested is that a new pole is erected in our garden and fed from the LV pole 30m away, crossing from the verge over the ditch at an angle and to our new pole. New stays would be needed on existing pole due to the new cable angle. A small tree would need removing also to allow this route as it is angled across. The other option was a new pole on the verge in a straight line with last pole on run and then again mole a duct under the ditch but more cost. What I would like to know is the spec for crossing a ditch with the supply? Can It be done myself? What they have suggested Is fairly simple design but still costly and I need to save where I can. What are my options? Can I dig a trench across the ditch and lay duct in for them to pull cable through to my temp kiosk? We will be building a new culvert crossing soon as well so could it be incorporated in this? Water mains supply is also running along in the verge so will need to take a similar route across. If it makes any difference IIRC the 33kv line was just trenched deep across the ditch and reinstated.
  8. Not many time clock models on the market these days (although most digital metered programmers allow the facility to set this) . In my experience though a metered machine will nearly always regenerate at a set pattern of days such as a time clock model would because a modern families daily water usage is fairly constant throughout the week and the softeners are set at a maximum of one daily regeneration. Gone are the days when all the clothes washing or even family baths were done on one particular day of the week! So you could say that any other claimed benefits of a particular softener over a straight forward time clock machine are just marketing gimmicks.
  9. I just don't think using something at 75% of its capacity is efficient. Having only four settings/models for all conceivable water hardness values across a range means it can only be right four times. For all other hardness values it is almost right. That just doesn't work for me. If you can get one of their units cheap then go for it but the retail prices on their own brand are eye watering compared to a trade spec alternative from a merchant which can give a finer range of adjustment. Both if setup correctly will give fully softened water at the outlet. Which is all most customers want. And efficiency is less of a concern. I was always surprised how many people would go for a more expensive machine with a plastic cover over the top controls because it looked nicer and then have it installed in their under sink cupboard next to a stinky food waste bin. Now this isn't strictly true. If the resin needs that volume of salt and water to be considered fully recharged then it isn't an excess as such. It is exactly the right amount that is needed. Upflow brining units can reduce Regenerating the resin before it is fully exhausted and using salt and water unnecessarily is less efficient than running it to capacity and then regenerating is. You wont find many industrial units that aren't Duplex, Triplex or more and that aren't run to maximum capacity before regenerating but these are more closely monitored than a domestic machine would be. Water tests can be conducted by operatives daily and adjustments made accordingly. Some units have electronic chemical testing units testing the product water every minute and triggering a regeneration the moment the mineral content rises above a set point.
  10. How is the air getting into the pipeline?
  11. If you are not using resin to its maximum capacity before regenerating it is not efficient. Nearly all domestic size softeners are fairly inefficient due to the setting methods. And as you say some models are even less efficient by wasting excess water and salt to regenerate. There is no disputing the accuracy of the Harveys metering system as they are fitted with Kent meters , the same as the water board fit in your house so you know they aren't missing a drop. Each of the four available Harveys models can only be using 100% exchange capacity at one incoming hardness value. If your water harness is actually below this value the softener is not being efficient and is regenerating more often than needed. (thus wasting salt and water) and they would certainly err on the side of caution when specifying your model needed. With the cheaper single column softener models the inefficiency comes from the fact that most cannot provide softened water whilst regenerating, so are set to do so at periods of low usage (night time in most domestic situations) and as such are programmed with a Safety factor or Reserve capacity meaning they run at say 80-90% efficiency most of the time and have the extra 10-20% in reserve to last until the machine can be regenerated. So if the softener manufacturer recommends a setting of say 1000litres at 300ppm hardness it will probably actually soften up to 1200 litres before becoming exhausted. Also you are correct about the metering accuracy of some of the cheaper models which can often not read very low flows normally caused by large storage tanks and ballcock filling valves where if the tank level only drops a small amount when say flushing a toilet or washing hands the the ballcock will not fully open and has very low flow at the beginning and end of its stroke. Softeners are then set to regenerate more often to combat this thus then being less efficient. The best way to have full exchange efficiency is to use a Duplex machine with a digital programmer capable of incremental settings so as soon as a column reaches maximum exchange capacity it swaps duty to the other column and regenerates to exhausted one. But these are normally larger machines not suited for under sink installation.
  12. I spent a good few years installing and servicing all kinds of domestic water softeners. All the Harvey's made units can only be ordered in four different settings depending on water hardness as indicated by the model numbers on the pic above. The model numbers refer to the number of litres of treated water that will pass the metering system before a regeneration is triggered. Four settings to cover any incoming water hardness means it it may not be running at full resin efficiency. Kinetico comes in 8 settings IIRC and can be more easily adjusted by changing the metering disc in the top although still fiddly and can be further adjusted on the brine height setting allowing harnesses at the edge of a range. They are both fairly reliable units though in my experience. Most faults were with stones or blue polythene pipe burrs blocking internal passageways. A lot of the cheaper 10-15 Litre basic electrically operated water softeners found in builders merchants are actually a lot more efficient in terms of exchange capacity as they can be set to an exact litre figure and tested and adjusted easily by the customer after installation if not quite right. I used to always recommend anything with a Fleck or Autotrol control valve on top. Maybe slightly less reliable but the initial purchase price saving and salt running costs (The electrical costs are miniscule plus potential waste water savings if set up correctly) will easily pay for future maintenance and if you are handy plenty of Youtube guides showing how to strip and rebuild them. Plus spare available online.
  13. Hi Russell I'm in north west Essex
  14. Hi Everyone. Just joined the site today after a lot of my google searches have bought me to forum posts here and looks like good sensible answers to (most) posts unlike other sites I've seen. Just had our full planning approved for a detached House and garage and currently in process of sorting finance and getting plenty of good advice before anything starts. Not sure how much work I will do myself as I'm not a builder by any stretch (Engineer/pipefitter) but keen to have as much input as I can. I'm sure I will be visiting the forum often.