tommyt

Hi @oranjeboom I think the manual suggests filling with water manually to start because the water can sometimes be orange from the new resin before you flush it. Filling it manually prevents the orange water going in the salt tank and you thinking there is a fault. 1) Sometimes a manual Regen is only a half Regen and may take an automatic Regen to reset itself. 2) Which pipe is dripping, is it the 3/8" pipe going to waste? it shouldn't drip at all and if it does could be the cause of high water usage. 150Litres per person per day is the calc people use but I find even that is a lot these days. 3) Yes the brine will always be above the plate unless in first stage of Regen where it sucks it out. The water will become fully saturated with salt and not disolve anymore unless the float fails and it overflows somewhere. It is normal for one block to go faster than the other.

To add, this is an easy (and free) test you can do if the resin doesn't come out then yes the shuttle valve would be the next point to check, Is the water still soft when the flow is low?

Hi @spaceman If you look at both vessels they have an oval shaped plug held in with 2 x 1/4 hex head self tappers. Take out the vessels from the tank as this could get messy. If you isolate the water supply and relief all pressure in the machine by performing 2 turns of the manual regeneration screw on top of the meter. Then open up these vessel plugs. You should see resin (tiny orange beads) about 1 inch below neck. If resin begins to pour out like lava from a volcano then the resin is shot and has to be replaced by the manufacturer. Resin is easily damaged by chlorine/bleach and will expand so may have only affected the vessel that was online at the time of the problem.

I am in the process of sorting this out on my site and received confirmation from the EA that you don’t need have to have a permit to discharge from them if you can meet the general binding rules and get building regulations approval. If you believe you can’t meet the rules, then yes you will need a permit.

You can always install a water softener. Never did a site visit where I couldn’t find a way to get one in. (FWIW softener waste discharges at mains pressure so can be run a fair distance, even vertically to a waste pipe elsewhere and we often built insulated cabinets to install them on an outside wall) But sometimes it isn’t a straight forward job and the price or the disruption needed to fit one was too much for the customers to swallow. People always seemed to make the decision to install one after their house or brand new Kitchen was finished.

Cracked around the back bearing by any chance?

I always use Loctite 55 on brass to brass threads. Brilliant stuff. And WRAS approved.

Yep, this ?? Is the way

That’s the way I do it but just use a small off cut of board to draw the profile cut needed on the back of the board to be cut

Titanium electrode with iirc 12v socket built in made for water softener chlorine generation. https://www.termoidraulicarv.com/en/parkin-softener-s-parts/352-titanium-electrode-for-chlo-active-with-tee-38--0793597724069.html

Also interested in this thread as we have just moved plant room location on our plans to the front of the attached garage but need to keep heat pump in same location at back and will run pipes through.

Inlet valve to softener, Outlet valve from softener & A Bypass tap. If you need to turn the softener off for maintenance or a fault you just turn all three valves shutting off the water in/out to the unit and opening the bypass. Thus feeding untreated water to the house. In an emergency though you could just loop a hose from the inlet to the outlet if you don’t fit a bypass tap.

What size is your main plumbing? 15mm or 22mm? if you can you should get full bore lever valves with either 15 or 22mm x 3/4” male threads as the standard Washmac valves and ballofix tend to restrict the flow some what and you will get a small pressure drop across the resin bed of the softener . If you can’t find those then regular full bore lever valves then small piece of pipe then fit a 15 or 22mm x 3/4” Male Iron to connect the hoses to.

Because you have to fight it to get it back off again.

For drainage I just use wet and dry solvent. Can be used on PVC PVC-U and ABS. Can also get it in blue so you can see which joints are glued but wouldn’t use blue where on show. For PVC/PVC-U or ABS pressure pipe new Installations I always use the correct solvent/cement as we factor in the cure time on a quote but in a pinch to get a customer up and running on a call out we quite regularly use PVC wet and dry solvent on ABS pipe work as the cure time is quicker. Never use ABS cement on PVC pipe though. I think I’m right in saying the gap filling properties of these products is just dissolved pieces of the stated product. Did you test the fitting dry? If the pipe had a good interference fit then I’d say it’ll be ok with just the regular solvent.