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About tommyt

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  1. Also interested in this thread as we have just moved plant room location on our plans to the front of the attached garage but need to keep heat pump in same location at back and will run pipes through.
  2. Inlet valve to softener, Outlet valve from softener & A Bypass tap. If you need to turn the softener off for maintenance or a fault you just turn all three valves shutting off the water in/out to the unit and opening the bypass. Thus feeding untreated water to the house. In an emergency though you could just loop a hose from the inlet to the outlet if you don’t fit a bypass tap.
  3. What size is your main plumbing? 15mm or 22mm? if you can you should get full bore lever valves with either 15 or 22mm x 3/4” male threads as the standard Washmac valves and ballofix tend to restrict the flow some what and you will get a small pressure drop across the resin bed of the softener . If you can’t find those then regular full bore lever valves then small piece of pipe then fit a 15 or 22mm x 3/4” Male Iron to connect the hoses to.
  4. Because you have to fight it to get it back off again.
  5. For drainage I just use wet and dry solvent. Can be used on PVC PVC-U and ABS. Can also get it in blue so you can see which joints are glued but wouldn’t use blue where on show. For PVC/PVC-U or ABS pressure pipe new Installations I always use the correct solvent/cement as we factor in the cure time on a quote but in a pinch to get a customer up and running on a call out we quite regularly use PVC wet and dry solvent on ABS pipe work as the cure time is quicker. Never use ABS cement on PVC pipe though. I think I’m right in saying the gap filling properties of these products is just dissolved pieces of the stated product. Did you test the fitting dry? If the pipe had a good interference fit then I’d say it’ll be ok with just the regular solvent.
  6. Also “space saving” waste kits quite often end up anything but. Depending on your first fix waste pipe location.
  7. The parts diagram for that tap shows Flexi tails yet the colour photo below shows rigid copper tails. I know for sure that the Franke Minerva boiling water taps changed over to copper tails so perhaps you can buy the tails separately from Franke if the Flexi tails on yours will unscrew? I’d go all copper for under sink without a doubt where possible.
  8. Different fitting brands use differing thread sizes and there is no standard 22mm compression nut thread size unlike 15mm compression fittings which are (almost) always 1/2” BSP. But you can easily go to a BSP thread by using a 22mm to Male/female iron in whatever thread size you need.
  9. 3 tonnes direct from Wales. And we’re having to give it away for free including 4 days labour for me and another person plus re erection of the scaffold due to the original install mess up. So I hope we’re getting it cheap.
  10. Quick update on this. I managed to get a vague answer from UKPN regarding going under a ditch, basically just quoting me the standard depth of 450mm for garden land or footway and then added “maybe just go a bit deeper just to be sure” I had also asked if I could have the new pole I need £955 or even just the extra cable stays that are apparently needed on the existing pole and that are quoted at £304! installed privately as I have a friend who runs a private contract company doing repairs for UKPN so has a Unimog with hiab and auger onboard and could do the whole job really, but I was told no due to the need for all new poles to be marked on records and labelled/numbered correctly. So I will now be going down a longer route, still needing to cross the ditch but in a different location but laying the duct myself and building a temp meter and supply box in a place where I can probably leave it as permanent. As many others on here seem to have done.
  11. Changing resin on these is pretty fiddly due to the small ports. They use a packed bed and it is blown in at the factory so you’ll never put back in as much as comes out. Being a packed bed though makes it more easy to identify resin degradation. If the resin has become damaged by chlorine from mains water it tends to break down and expand. Once you’ve got the resin wet and flushed, turn off the water supply again and using the method Jeremy noted to manually regenerate you can relieve the water pressure inside. Then just remove the filling ports and if resin starts rising upwards out of the hole then it’s had it. If it stays at the lower edge you’re good to go. I’m on a job this week adding 325 litres to each of 9 2500litre softener vessels which were under filled when built and we are literally just pouring bags of Purolite straight into the 6” wide necks from above whilst standing above on a scaffold.
  12. The surveyor mentioned it was a definitely a possibility but that they would mole it and that it would obviously cost more than cable straight across to a new pole so I discounted it without seeing the actual cost. I may try a quote from a private contractor to do all services and see what their ideas are.
  13. Thanks both for those answers. Given me some more food for thought. I have emailed the surveyor to ask for the spec to go under the ditch. Will be getting water surveyed soon so will see what they suggest. Phone pole is also terminated at neighbouring house but much closer to our plot so could easily go across at high level but again if I can get it in a duct at the same time as other services all the better. At the speed I’m getting things done round here though 6g internet will be out and I won’t need BT.
  14. I have had a design from UK power networks for my electric connection today. The nearest LV pole is on the verge (Country lane) 30m or so down the road and it terminates there. The last house it feeds is the neighbour. 10m further up the road is a 33kv HV pole with a transformer overhead feeding the 2 houses further up. Apparently the transformer would need upgrading to feed my house and quite costly and then mole under the ditch into our property. The 33kv line from the this pole goes into ground and crosses the ditch from the verge and is then buried inside our boundary and runs out along our hedge line but would need a substation built to tap off from it. What they have suggested is that a new pole is erected in our garden and fed from the LV pole 30m away, crossing from the verge over the ditch at an angle and to our new pole. New stays would be needed on existing pole due to the new cable angle. A small tree would need removing also to allow this route as it is angled across. The other option was a new pole on the verge in a straight line with last pole on run and then again mole a duct under the ditch but more cost. What I would like to know is the spec for crossing a ditch with the supply? Can It be done myself? What they have suggested Is fairly simple design but still costly and I need to save where I can. What are my options? Can I dig a trench across the ditch and lay duct in for them to pull cable through to my temp kiosk? We will be building a new culvert crossing soon as well so could it be incorporated in this? Water mains supply is also running along in the verge so will need to take a similar route across. If it makes any difference IIRC the 33kv line was just trenched deep across the ditch and reinstated.
  15. Not many time clock models on the market these days (although most digital metered programmers allow the facility to set this) . In my experience though a metered machine will nearly always regenerate at a set pattern of days such as a time clock model would because a modern families daily water usage is fairly constant throughout the week and the softeners are set at a maximum of one daily regeneration. Gone are the days when all the clothes washing or even family baths were done on one particular day of the week! So you could say that any other claimed benefits of a particular softener over a straight forward time clock machine are just marketing gimmicks.