Pocster

Down there at the moment; it's dark, damp, wet and very frightening! ; so yes! just like a dungeon!!!

Thanks. Yes he said +/- 10mm ; but 'preferred' +/- 5mm .... Going to stick my rotating laser guide in the centre so it's spinning dot just clips the top of a corner block then I know for each corner should be the same. Seems like a fair way to get level with acceptable tolerance.

I did. They have nothing at 140mm. Just 'standard' block sizes.

I think the timber guy wants height of 140 and also width 140. He said a 140x140mm block (which I can't find). I could just lay a block 'flat' ( Concrete Block, 440x215x140mm) ; so it's 215mm height rather than 140mm. What worries me is the step in width i.e. 215. Does that matter??; means for example UFH won't 'reach' the wall....

They've never heard of them - builders merchants.

Ceiling heights are around that.

Difficult to find a price online. I'm guessing everyone else isn't using these ; otherwise they would be common...... ; which means I'm doing it wrong!

Ah ok :-) Below is the underground room! (which will have UFH also). So 50mm on beam and block good enough?. I guess screed is 50mm ish.; so I'm gaining quite a bit of height.....

Hey all, My first floor has beam and block we intend wet UFH. Should I bother and insulate underneath it first?. Heat loss would heat the beam & block which is good yes? So can I lay the UFH straight on B&B ; membrane then screed?. Another issue I have is that insulating the floor would obviously effectively lower my ceiling. This hasn't been spec'd ; so I am adding as I go. If I did insulate what thickness?; low maybe 50mm??? thanks as always!

Yeah that's more like it ! id have to lay it flat as the timber is 140 wide. i will now Google soap bar block :-)))) appreciated !

Hey all, My timber frame supplier wishes me to build a base for the frame. He said you can get 140x140mm concrete blocks (the width of the timbers). I can't see any online nor does my local builders merchants know of any. Rather than cut umpteen standard concrete blocks in half - anyone come across these before?? thanks in advance

Hey all, Anyone any experience with this timber frame manufacturer? Came in with a pretty reasonable quote including installation!!! Cheers

At this point in time a games room I want it to be a granny annex so assuming I got planning for change of use could I then extend it under pd rights ?

It's tricky. The outbuildings use (previous to our purchase) was a "games room". I did rent it many years ago and got an enforcement notice to stop as it wasn't an authorised "change of use".

Sorry; this is an existing build and outbuilding.....

Great!; more to email thanks!

Hi all, As the title says; is this the same for domestic dwellings and out buildings? i.e. could I extend my out building under permitted development rules ?? thanks in advance

Thanks guys ! will email them !! cheers

Hey all, I'm trying to sort my structural timber frame. Emailed a good few companies only 1 replied with "get back to you later". I'm in the SW so wonder if anyone can recommend any firms that would do a site inspection - and assume they supply pre assembled panels do the installation also. thanks in advance

Thanks for all the replies. Just awaiting some responses from timber frame suppliers...... Cheers

Hey all! Right! Here's what I *think* and also some questions. Please if answering quote the point that's wrong or you think might be wrong. Any help is appreciated!!! 1) The thermalite external skin doesn't really do a lot except be something to render and keep the rain out 2) The thermalite skin is tied across the insulation to the inner timber frame which is structural. Hence why timber frame *must* be erected first! (I get it now! - didn't know this until you guys said). 3) Inner timber frame has presumably 4 base plates (per corner?) ; these need to be positioned accurately . I assume these attach straight to the beam and block? 4) Inner timber frame is built and clad in OSB or similar ; this in turn covered with some membrane (air/water proof). So essentially you end up with a timber 'box' clad in membrane. Which is turn the roof structure sits on. Questions! 1) If internal timber frame is structural ; does nothing go inside the frame? i.e. the insulation is outside this; so just a void? 2) Say (for example) to run a pipe or electrical wiring from front of ground floor to back would require drilling through the timber frame!. I presume a 'few holes' potentially every 'upright' is not an issue?? 3) DPC confuses me. I thought the general rule was 150mm above external level. But I think Brickie mentioned it's kind of relative to your inner floor finished level. So on this basis do I assume the DPC is about the same height as the finished internal floor level (as long as externally it's at least 150mm)? 4) The ground floor at the rear of the build has a sunken garden effectively - so no DPC required for the back wall? (perhaps just a bit on the returns?) 5) If you look at the photo (not plans) you'll see I had to build a single skinned concrete block wall. This is tied on the outside to stone work. Errecting the timber frame/ cladding and membrane externally wouldn't be possible at this point. The wall is at full height so assume tieing from above that to the frame would be fine; i.e. the wall at this point is self supporting. 6) Although the SE/architect/BOC have inspected everything - they all (including myself!) missed that there is no DPC on this wall mentioned in question 5). Any suggestion on how to retrospectively fit a DPC???. I'm not sure how much rain splashing or rising damp this block work would get in reality - but worth asking! 7) As mentioned my SE is too busy and my architect has run away (thanks guys!). The timber frame design and spec I'll get a firm to do. I assume BOC will be happy with this. Do I need BOC to check more things at certain intervals now there is no architect on board??. I want the finished build to pass :-)))

Hey ! insulation clad on the entire outside at the back . So returns , lintel and non load bearing wall ( middle of lintel not yet built )

Yep - se spec'd the steel

Thanks guys the beam curved not an issue just the gap looking face down between the brick work and the concrete beam . might just foam a bit underside then put concrete in . I did notice as I tapped each block as I laid them the beam 'bounced' which isn't very re assuring ..... cheers