Pocster

Thanks for all the advice my SE is too busy appearing on grand design and my architect - well ; he's been paid and gone . good isn't it ?! will get block work up to damp course then sort a company to spec structural timber and roof structure . i do genuinely appreciate the help - and my lack of knowledge is due to not building before and having no support . cheers all

Guess I need a new SE !!!!!

Hmmmm ive been told that if I bed my ties in the external block work they can tie to the timber frame internally - though I must admit I don't know how . re insulation . External wall with ties . Then insulation . Then protruding ties onto timber frame work . Told this by a builder .....

Ok I get the point :-) but what's wrong with external wall with ties then internal timber frame being assembled in that order ? what problem does this present ?? my SE has disappeared ! Hence on my own a bit ......

Ok there seem to be some mutually exclusive things here ! ties to bind the 2 leafs - but can't break vapour membrane ? timber frame is self supporting so no need to fix to outer leaf - I can't anyway insulation in the way .

Ok as far as I understand it the timber frame is self supporting so wouldn't need ties . why not build external block work then timber frame with membrane then roof structure ?

Ok I could put ties on my external block work - ready for tieing to timber frame work cheers

Actually I presume which ever firm supplies the trusses etc could also do the timber frame and their own SE could sign it off ?

Ok thanks ! i guess because I don't have the SE design for this that's what confused me . appreciated ! . I'll just get my external block work up for now !!

Right ! so internal timber stud to take roof loading . Therefore no point having steel studwork also - that was just for plasterboard etc etc . sorry ! My confusion !!

Erm ok . If that's correct then what exactly is the inner skin made of ???? i can't see a definition for the inner skin in that diagram - or am I missing something ??? inner leaf c16 stud ??? ; does that take the roof loading ???

SE approved the brackets that support the lintels down one side of the build

Unless I'm missing something - yes take a look !!

Hey all, My steel was placed ages ago and once the beam and block were in place it can be seen there's a slight gap. Do I just shutter underneath (say scaffold boards with acro props) and simply put some concrete in the gap to fill it and bond with the steel? Or something more elaborate??? Cheers

No . Build outer wall ; stick roof on . Then insulate inside and steel stud up . Why do the other way around ????

Sorry it is confusing ! the front floor you can see is the 'roof' to an underground section . So ontop that high compressive insulation then a reinforced concrete pour - then the final finish . Which means the front blocks as is wont have a dpc 150mm above ground . But ! As it stands the rest of the build does ! Im guessing though as you state best just do a brick or split course block all round to raise the dpc cheers

My course height is now all correct apart from the front. Because the front requires further concrete pours and insulation the DPC at that point needs to be higher. 1 block height though is too much. So the new plan might be to cut thermalite blocks length ways and put that all the way around all the perimeter. (half height thermalite blocks effectively) Then DPC will be fine and more importantly front DPC wall will be fine i.e. 150mm. Ground floor wall construction is (from outside to inner) ; external render, thermalite , water proof barrier, insulation , steel frame stud, OSB , plasterboard, skim

There are no wall ties single skin also ( and I appreciate you guys might not know this ) my build is non standard . 1 storey above ground 1 below . Below ground done ! im just trying to get the dpc course above ground ready for the rest of the block work

The easiest solution is to lay blocks all the way around to get a level and also dpc at correct height at the front . Or cut thermalite down the middle ( longways ) and lay a course of them all the way around . That might be easier - whipping through them with an angle grinder

Outer block work is now pretty level

Yes otherwise I'll have to cut loads of thermalite or lay an entire course of bricks just to get 1 height .

Lol ! so it won't be the usual stagger on the corner - I suppose it doesn't really matter . I'll make sure some sheet ply is resting against the corner when the building inspector looks ... :-)

Lol so ...... rather than do an entire perimeter of extra bricks just to make all the edge level ( but with differing dpc ) can I 'lap' corners ?? . In theory it shouldn't matter .......

F me ! So that's ok ????????? so I can cut my thermalite any way I want really !!

Ok. This is what I did! I slightly cheated! I knocked down the concrete blocks that weren't quite level ( due to riding on the lintel). I then cut 10mm or so off a few thermalite blocks and put them in their place! This is all above ground but below DPC. The thermalite block spec does say they can be used below ground; but like most people I prefer concrete blocks.