Pocster

Hmmmm, ok. Seems pretty level though.... :-) I do have another issue though. See attached photo. These concrete blocks are the front. But I have to add 85mm reinforced concrete and insulation. So my DPC at this point would be less < 150mm. These blocks though are just about the same height all round the build - so I have a 'reasonable' level. As you can see my internal floor level is near the top of the block. if I add another entire block course my DPC will be fine but my door entrance (I assume DPC *must* run under doorway). If I do say half blocks or bricks to 'gain' height for my DPC then the entire perimeter block work will be lower and I don't fancy increasing it's height just to align everything. So what concerns me is my DPC level at the front and how I tie the corner together between the side wall (not visible yet - though can see see my steel running to the side behind the insulation to show it's height) and the front wall if the block courses are at different levels. I assume cutting a 'L' in a thermalite block to lap a corner (and allow for different heights) is not a recommended practise.....

Hey all, Concrete blocks below DPC. To check my level i.e. know it was out; I cemented 1 brick at a corner. Then cemented another further along about 3 metres or so. I have a nice straight piece of steel I sat across the 2 and then stuck a spirit level on it. I adjusted the bed depth of the bricks until I'm pretty much level - then I can see my concrete blocks (below DPC) are out maybe 20mm tops in the middle (i.e. they rise). So my plan was to do a run of bricks making sure they are all level between those 2 fixed bricks. repeat this down the side of the build (around 9m). DPC on top of this and then thermalite blocks have a pretty level base to go from. Cheers all.

Thanks all

Lol just worried about getting the dpc level at this time . of course I'm building it myself :-) ; hence the posts lol lol height stick ? Erm .....

Less than 50mm out and yes building a thermalite external wall . So can trim each slither to create a level .

Lol i cut these buggers with a wood saw no problem so a thin ish slither in a wall is ok ? It's strength isn't compromised??? thank you

Hey all i like how easy these are to cut ! is it ok to cut a slither and use like 50mm or something . Or is this bad ???? just wondering !!!!! - not done anything mental yet ....... cheers all aporeciated !!

Lol sorry wobbly = not level a brick course can make it level and then that which is below dpc can be rendered ???

Right ! so on top of my wobbly block work I should lay a level course of bricks - then dpc on that as it will be straight !!! :-))

150mm no problem down the side so can the bell cast bottom be level even if the dpc isnt? Is that what your saying ? also the ground level at the front of the house is higher - can I change the level on the dpc as I turn the corner ; is that allowed ???

Right ! ive got my first course in which gets me above ground level . its plumb but wobbly - the brackets the lintel sits on weren't perfect . i could run my dpc along this course no issue . but as I assume you dont render over the dpc ( I. E it will be visible ) it will look crap like a Mexican wave !! shoukd I for example use a course of engineering bricks to get everything level then apply my dpc ? i guess it all depends on whether dpc is visible or not ..... cheers as always

Right ! It is gallow brackets ! will bin the lot and get a new lintel appreciated !! Cheers

This is all below ground level stuff . so knock the 3 blocks off and just stick l2 lintel to bridge the span ? walls are just 2 courses block work then thermalite . the brackets which you can't see can take 5 tons each - the brackets are fine :-) complex build ; ground unstable . cheers

Ok! here goes. Ordered a lintel but it seems short!!. Anyway I didn't notice until today when I tried to use it! It causes me a problem! Please see photo's . L1 is the lintel too short. it is meant to sit on the 3 brackets (A,B & C); but can't reach! It's currently balanced on B & C. I've put half an engineering brick on bracket A to get the height right and was intending using a spare lintel (L2) to go across that i.e. from above 'A" to reach probably 'B'. Is this ok?. I'm trying to move the 'weak' point across. This lintel(s) support the exterior side of the house so I'm guessing rather important. If anyone says this is dumb; that is fine honestly!. I'll order a new lintel and cut to suit. My logic seemed good - but you know. For the record the 3 concrete blocks to the left are cemented in ; the ones on the right are just to stop the lintel tipping!!! Best check now before house collapses later!!! Cheers

Got it - cheers

Mortar both sides it is!. Thanks!. One of the questions worth asking *before* you start

Hey dumb question again ! once I lay my first run of blocks do I just put the dpc on then lay the next course ? i.e do you put mortar underneath or on top the dpc ??? cheers

The existing wall I'm going into has no dpc - it's concrete blocks clad with stonework the build on the other 3 sides will be rendered yes . so I'm tying into an existing concrete block wall effectively cheers

Hey all, It's been suggested I run my DPC roll along my first course of blockwork and up a wall. I *assume* the stainless steel wall starter would go ontop the DPC and not the other way around?? Dumb question I know - but easy answer !

Thanks my max run is only just over 9m so no need I assume :-)

How long a run can I do before I place an expansion joint ??

I guess that's possible. Don't want building inspector querying any alterations. I'll do thermalite blocks though. Looks more manly if I've "built it"

Yeah, sorry. My build is 'unconventional' so sometimes I just ask a question without giving my different context. Hope the attached explains it. Think I will go with thermalite or equivalent.. As always appreciate all the advice and help. You guys are stars! Cheers DD401B2C-B95E-41AF-95FC-AE9C40607AA7.pdf

I forgot to mention that the outside wall sits on lintels which in turn sit on metal brackets bolted to a solid surface. So the external wall is sitting on brackets! - I'm guessing the weight of concrete blocks may be an issue compared to aircerte blocks.....

Yeah. I'm just following the architects spec!. I'm guessing because they have a better thermal value than bog standard concrete blocks.? and easier to work with......