Pocster

Ensuite as it stands dimensions internally are (allowing for frame + plasterboard etc. ) 70cm x 330cm It won't be quite 330 because some boxing in must be allowed for the flue. So a 70cm shower tray would fit. But allowing for the shower door opening i.e. clearing the sink - might be tight - or might just be my imagination!

I did wonder about the bathroom loo against a bedroom because of noise. Once someone had replied about how 'thick' that wall needs to be I was then going to ask about sound proofing....... Wife didn't want freestanding roll top bath in bedroom - so that ended that conversation real quick ! I did consider rotating the bath but it felt most 'efficient' across the bathroom width. Wife might also want his & her sinks () so must allow for that possibility!!!

Hey! Yeah the ensuite is a squash - TBH it's larger than our current ensuite. It could go the other side and replace the storage & cupboard. Bathroom and ensuite were all put on the same side because the sewer access is that side. Not sure there would be enough of a fall to run from one side to the other for waste etc. beam and block floor. I was concerned about 'stepping' on ensuite/storage not sure it would look right (hence why running right across) Certainly would make for a nice larger shower. But how do I get the waste across? also how does the wet underfloor heating pipes 'cross' the (presumably pumped) waste?. Or do I take the waste high ? (via the ceiling ) across then down?

Hey all, Please see attached the original architects layout suggestion and also my *rough* alterations. Any suggestions or comments on better use of the space appreciated. The measurements are fairly accurate but I do have some concerns. Measurements are from *outside* of timber frame so don't allow for thickness of it; originally it was 100m now 140mm. This makes the ensuite shower very tight (originally a 80x80cm standard one); due to the walls thickening now maybe a 70cm wide one? . I can't increase the width of the ensuite as the french doors wouldn't line up with the doors beneath. The bath. The bath in our current house is 1.8m ; i realise now this is quite a long bath. In the new bathroom I don't want the bath tight against each wall - always looks 'squashed' too me. I could widen the bathroom or simply get maybe a 1.4m bath instead? Bathroom toilet. We plan on having a wall hung toilet. I understand that wall will need to be thicker to accommodate this; but how thick?. I have found a super slim wall cistern anyone installed one of these?? https://www.livinghouse.co.uk/acatalog/slim-concealed-toilet-cistern-and-frames.html We plan to add an external porch to make up for the removal of the architects solution. I'm planning all this ready for the timber frame. What width should I allow for a door fitting? 100cm?? (to allow for lining , fixing, packing etc.? Cheers

Thanks guys

I thought it would be say on 12m. I know seeing the laser dot outside might be tricky but I have some red filter googles or simply stick some white paper on the distant target.

THanks guys tbh I've Been thinking about a digital laser measure for ages - I'm sure we are all use to struggling on our own with a tape . will get a 90 degree measure as well

I was thinking about buying a digital laser measure anyway ; far easier than a tape (looking at Bosch around £50 mark).

Thanks ! 3-4-5 all the way !!

Hey all, Finally managed to source everything I need to do the 'wall' for which the sole plate sits on. Have a spinny rotating laser (technical term! ) for getting it level. One thing I am wary of is how to make sure it's square? i.e. A is the same length as B. Difficult to measure with a tape or pin and line as it's around 12metres. I'm concious I could drift and not be 'square'. Any suggestions on how I make sure this is ok? Also I *assumed* I would bed the corner blocks first so I have something to follow? Or should I use the length of A & B to set my run of bricks i.e. those lengths (assuming the same) are my guide??? I know I could pythagoras and build a 3-4-5 wooden triangle or similar; this the best method for the 90degress angle? Any advice appreciated! Cheers

Nothing to lose ! Worth a punt !!!

Or change tactic ...... Get planning a for a large garage. Shouldn't be an issue. Then resubmit as a house (going under ground if need be to get the extra floor area). There are infinite ways to skin a cat; the council have limited intelligence and resources so exploit them!

I'd fight this. "keeping out of the character of the area" is as flakey as you can get; we had this. 5 different applications refused. "detrimental to the local amenity" also a load of bollocks. You PUSH to get the council to define this rubbish. Then you change the design to match their dumb response. It took me 5 years to get planning - so never give up!

Thanks ! Very helpful ! - all of you ! will order one up ! ?

Brilliant explanation thank you ! the stairwell is the entrance way to 2 flats ; ground and first floor . so do I purchase a normal pneumatic switch ? - nothing special just bog standard ?? cheers again

Oops ! shoujd also mention ( may not be relevant ) there is battery backup emergency lighting . So when I flip the ' stairwell lighting ' trip off emergency lighting kicks in . cheers

Hey guys thanks for the help ; now I am confused ! there are only 2 switches and 2 lights . Either switch turns on both lights . the upstairs light switch was the same mechanical type but just 2 brown (live) wires . I replaced that with a 1 pole timer touch switch which seems to work I.e turns on both lights . so the downstairs one as in the photo is the issue . I *guess* if I bought the exact same mechanical switch I'd be ok ; though still not finding what I need online . A direct replacement makes this easy ; yeah ?? cheers

Hey all, I have a hallway where I have a switch at the base of the stairs and a switch at the top that turn on jointly lights top and bottom of stairs. They were the push mechanical ones which are now busted. I bought a cheap (eBay!!!) one for the top stairs that seems to work (bit flakey). The down stairs switch is dual gang (is that the correct terminology?) anyone recommend a non mechanical switch that would work here? Cheers

Not aircrete :-(

Apparently a fire in a german factory has crippled supply of all aircrete blocks. 140mm impossible to get hold of!. Any suggestions welcome! Assuming I had the will power I could cut standard 100mm blocks in half and have a 220mm deep floor; but it seems a waste to do that and then fill with thicker insulation and/or thicker screed. Also; anyone fancy cutting 200 blocks!

Ok - right ; another failed delivery whilst 140mm aircrete blocks exist on websites - no one actually ships them !

Lol it doesn't ! . The architect visited the site and just said so . i get the impression everyone else gets every detail defined - I don't ! :-/

Now you are joking ! Nope!.

Architect !!! but yes it confuses me why when you have render like k rend or similar

Thanks it's been suggested I put trays the entire length of the block work below dpc . Not just around window details etc .