Pocster

LOL! But it cuts square holes!!! - it's a nice toy!!! My build is 2 storey. 1 storey completely below ground. The 'ground' storey hasn't been built yet Therefore my below ground storey has the dimpled wall membrane and eventually an internal drain to remove any water penetration - hence timber not much use yet (Yes; I could make it all 100% waterproof and then use timber - but where's the fun in that!)

My wood working skills are ok for stud . But as I'm below ground and in an inch of water...... also the steel is cheaper in my experience than timer. Also the steel is always straight!. Nothing worse than a delivery of wood and then when you install a length if has that nice bend in it Also, sometime ago I needed to get basic electrics in so that needed some wall fixing. As it's like a swimming pool sometimes; steel stud became my friend.

No electrics in yet. I was planning like you to put all the stud in and then run the wiring. The reason for steel over timber is that I'm below ground and *no where* near waterproof. I feel 'happier' with non rot, no soaking up water steel. Though timber is easier to work with - the steel does seem 'flimsy' but once boarded (think I will do OSB on walls and 'thicken up' for bathroom sanitary ware and kitchen wall units) does seem quite sturdy. Also (as an aside) I found a mega tool for cutting all the sockets/switches out. It's an instant purchase for me once available!!! (wood blades apparently on the way). https://quadsaw.com Nothing to do with my original post BTW!!!

Funny you should mention that. I saw some systems with those 'anchors' also other systems which just use a ceiling and floor rail so no 'mid way' support....

Hey all, I'm going this route for various reasons over timber. Does it matter (or is there any benefit) of doing walls first then ceiling?. By this I mean the walls would obviously be floor to ceiling height thereby the ceiling (once plasterboard out) would only contact with the stud walls rather than the structural walls - if that makes sense! . Equally the same for doing ceiling first then walls. I assume there's no different either way............. The other thing that concerned me is once all this stud is up I did intend cladding the walls in OSB and then plasterboard - I like my wall to feel (and sound!) solid - also of course good for any fixing (though I'll reinforce anyway where for example kitchen wall units go). This a good or bad plan ?

here you go! http://www.pinpod.com

Not sure if that was an offer or not ? ?

Yeah this is what I was wondering. I'm guessing our beam and block arrangement is designed with the bath placement in mind.

In our original design the bath was on a beam and block floor laid 'narrow' i.e. more beam than block ; presumably for strength. If (when!) SHMBO decides to relocate the bath should I be concerned? . Also some of these nice baths (read expensive and heavy) come in at 130kg! minus water and my weight (assuming I ever get the chance to actually use it). So is the weight an issue if the bath is relocated??

Thanks Nick!; I take your points; much appreciated!. I didn't really want a past time of watching pressure gauges!

Cheers

I've read on some other threads about Hep2O and it does sound great (nice when you learn something new!!). I see the general idea is a manifold for hot and cold that supply everything so hopefully no (or very little joins); also a stop tap at the manifold per run. I intend rainwater harvesting for 2 toilets, 2 out door taps, 1 washing machine. Presumably the feed from the RWH could go to a separate manifold which in turn feeds those utilities? Would it be wise (assuming such a thing exists) to put a pressure gauge on each Hep2O outlet?. The reason being I could balance the system so when 2 taps are running the shower doesn't run dry (for example). This a good plan ?

Great there I was thinking mdpe was the main option over copper .

Oooooo It does seem nice. So In theory can you do a run say from boiler to tap with zero joins? i.e. curve the pipe rather than elbow it?

Thanks. Didn't come across Hep2O when googling. So this is the 'new' pex ?

Hey all, It would seem that still copper is best for all internal water. But what about PEX and all the equivalents?. A pressure connection does worry me compared to the certainty of a welded joint. But with plastic I an do the majority of the install hence the appeal. So; is it still copper all the way?? Cheers

I did my own test holes. Also took the soil to be sampled myself for planning rather than pay a company to come out and charge a fortune. We were fortunate and as expected the top meter soil and then rock; so no shuttering required

Now there's a good idea !!

I'm sorry to hear that IanR ; but that's exactly my point! You'll measure from a wall and keep a note of it. Then when you need to drill down; you have the measurement but the wall may of been boarded or skimmed anything ; then it's guess time!!! No; I'm going to find something I can stick in the floor insulation next to the UFH pipework to denote a UFH free area!. Once I'm floor tiling I'll then measure from finished wall to point; so there's some accuracy . Also will take a photo ; and make a note of which tile the edge of the UFH was at. Perhaps spray permanent paint on tiles that have no UFH beneath them!; just to be safe

Lol! If that would work I'd do it!!!. You know what will happen by not being 100% certain where a pipe is. One day a "modification" will be required by SHMBO ; and regardless of photo's or any measurements I'll be *gambling* I'm not going to hit a pipe. As sods law will be at work.........

Sure. I just "worry" that it takes just the 1 mistake (cm either way) and it's a problem.

So does no one fix (somehow) markers at the corners of each non UFH floor section that protrude up through the screed?? I definitely want to do this; so no guessing when fixing to the floor

Wouldn't that be ok as I assume your screed is at least 50mm?; but appreciate the risk regardless!

I was thinking of somehow attaching upstands to the ufh piping at those points so they poke through the screed !

Ah I was going to say stud walls. So I would need to somehow mark out these areas and run the UFH around them. Once the screed is poured though; how can I be sure (whilst drilling into the floor!!!) I'm not going to hit a UFH pipe?