Pocster

Lol just worried about getting the dpc level at this time . of course I'm building it myself :-) ; hence the posts lol lol height stick ? Erm .....

Less than 50mm out and yes building a thermalite external wall . So can trim each slither to create a level .

Lol i cut these buggers with a wood saw no problem so a thin ish slither in a wall is ok ? It's strength isn't compromised??? thank you

Hey all i like how easy these are to cut ! is it ok to cut a slither and use like 50mm or something . Or is this bad ???? just wondering !!!!! - not done anything mental yet ....... cheers all aporeciated !!

Lol sorry wobbly = not level a brick course can make it level and then that which is below dpc can be rendered ???

Right ! so on top of my wobbly block work I should lay a level course of bricks - then dpc on that as it will be straight !!! :-))

150mm no problem down the side so can the bell cast bottom be level even if the dpc isnt? Is that what your saying ? also the ground level at the front of the house is higher - can I change the level on the dpc as I turn the corner ; is that allowed ???

Right ! ive got my first course in which gets me above ground level . its plumb but wobbly - the brackets the lintel sits on weren't perfect . i could run my dpc along this course no issue . but as I assume you dont render over the dpc ( I. E it will be visible ) it will look crap like a Mexican wave !! shoukd I for example use a course of engineering bricks to get everything level then apply my dpc ? i guess it all depends on whether dpc is visible or not ..... cheers as always

Right ! It is gallow brackets ! will bin the lot and get a new lintel appreciated !! Cheers

This is all below ground level stuff . so knock the 3 blocks off and just stick l2 lintel to bridge the span ? walls are just 2 courses block work then thermalite . the brackets which you can't see can take 5 tons each - the brackets are fine :-) complex build ; ground unstable . cheers

Ok! here goes. Ordered a lintel but it seems short!!. Anyway I didn't notice until today when I tried to use it! It causes me a problem! Please see photo's . L1 is the lintel too short. it is meant to sit on the 3 brackets (A,B & C); but can't reach! It's currently balanced on B & C. I've put half an engineering brick on bracket A to get the height right and was intending using a spare lintel (L2) to go across that i.e. from above 'A" to reach probably 'B'. Is this ok?. I'm trying to move the 'weak' point across. This lintel(s) support the exterior side of the house so I'm guessing rather important. If anyone says this is dumb; that is fine honestly!. I'll order a new lintel and cut to suit. My logic seemed good - but you know. For the record the 3 concrete blocks to the left are cemented in ; the ones on the right are just to stop the lintel tipping!!! Best check now before house collapses later!!! Cheers

Got it - cheers

Mortar both sides it is!. Thanks!. One of the questions worth asking *before* you start

Hey dumb question again ! once I lay my first run of blocks do I just put the dpc on then lay the next course ? i.e do you put mortar underneath or on top the dpc ??? cheers

The existing wall I'm going into has no dpc - it's concrete blocks clad with stonework the build on the other 3 sides will be rendered yes . so I'm tying into an existing concrete block wall effectively cheers

Hey all, It's been suggested I run my DPC roll along my first course of blockwork and up a wall. I *assume* the stainless steel wall starter would go ontop the DPC and not the other way around?? Dumb question I know - but easy answer !

Thanks my max run is only just over 9m so no need I assume :-)

How long a run can I do before I place an expansion joint ??

I guess that's possible. Don't want building inspector querying any alterations. I'll do thermalite blocks though. Looks more manly if I've "built it"

Yeah, sorry. My build is 'unconventional' so sometimes I just ask a question without giving my different context. Hope the attached explains it. Think I will go with thermalite or equivalent.. As always appreciate all the advice and help. You guys are stars! Cheers DD401B2C-B95E-41AF-95FC-AE9C40607AA7.pdf

I forgot to mention that the outside wall sits on lintels which in turn sit on metal brackets bolted to a solid surface. So the external wall is sitting on brackets! - I'm guessing the weight of concrete blocks may be an issue compared to aircerte blocks.....

Yeah. I'm just following the architects spec!. I'm guessing because they have a better thermal value than bog standard concrete blocks.? and easier to work with......

Hey all, My architect has specified Thermalite shield block for the exterior walls. My building supplier doesn't stock them and suggests Celcon standard block is equivalent. I can't find any evidence to support this. Also after googling I get the impression people don't seem too keen on Thermalite blocks for external walls...... (the finished exterior will be rendered). Any advice welcome! Cheers

Hey! don't apologise Any advice is welcome. P.S Like your blog

Nope not structural. Because I did a small portion of steel stud to support fuse box, main water inlet etc. I ordered in bulk otherwise wasn't cost effective. The fact the steel stud doesn't fix directly to the structural wall I like (less fixings in dimpled membrane the better) ; though TBH the same applies to timber. I think we've all gone off on a bit a tangent here (though I appreciate all the help); I was just wondering (for the future) walls or ceilings first...... I wasn't intending on doing anything major until I was water tight (or near to that).