Pocster

Here’s a pic As you can see the double glazed unit siits down in the hole . The structural part of the glass sits on the ‘T’ frame . So no access to anything internally . No access to under edge of ‘T’ frame externally ?

Can’t . frame is ‘T’ shaped so you can’t get to the edge outside . Glass itself just sits on rubber packers - sat in turn on the frame ( I was told to do it this way by the supplier ) . Only way is glass out so I can ct1 again under the frame .

I can take ( and will have too ) the whole lot out . The issue is frame to upstand . Not sure what ‘tapes’ exist . Ct1 seems the favourite.

Lol ‘ kick’ was just a joke ! @Onoff receives enough from me ? When I bedded the frames there was no wobble - as flush to the upstand as I could get . But of course just needs the tinniest of gaps .....

These windows were different to my original ‘ wrong’ ones . You get a steel frame . You then sit the glass in that . You then structural silicone around it . So I can cut it because I put it in . Need to anyway to get the glass out so I can get the frame out . ?

Surprised @Onoff hasn’t joined in for a kicking . Probably too busy tiling ........ ?

Ct1 on the upstand then screwed in place . I wasn’t keen on this because there’s no way of knowing if it’s a perfectly tight seal all around . Im tempted to cut the structural silicone out around one piece of glass . Remove it . Then re do the ct1 between upstand and frame . But I’ve still got no idea how perfect or imperfect the seal is until I put the glass back in and silicone again . Also the largest glass weighs 130kg - so not much fun ....

Lol Nope ! i did wonder if it’s just a ct1 everywhere job . To get under the lip will be difficult . Will post photos tomorrow. Really need a ct1 expanding foam type mega product . Actually how do I get ct1 under it ????

I tested it ever step of the way . No leaks . But it would seem not 100% once water level is high enough . Only found this out because I started doing the paving . Windows with no paving ( as of yet ) fine . To get the pavers flush with the glass I build up with mortar etc . Thereby putting water level higher .

So! I assume that rainwater is getting under the upstand because the concrete floor level is now level with it due to the block pavers! This area can be parked on and so drainage etc. wasn't an option. Not sure what to do. It's like I need to 'water proof' the window frame and upstand again somehow!!! My pavers seem to be the exact depth of the frame upstand unfortunately!! Previous to block paving no leaks - as the water level never got high enough.......

Maybe. Kind of discussed it here a bit ....

I will Rather annoyed tbh . ZERO leaks - checked it every step - but it’s water getting under the window ‘frame ‘ because ground level is higher because of the block paving . Sketch soon !!! ?

Hey ! These have been leak free . Ive started doing the block paving around them . I haunch the concrete against the upstand so I can bed the brick . I think this is the issue ( obviously complete I would fill all the block paving joints with kiln dried sand - but can’t rely on that .... ) . So ! ; I think rain water gets in this gap ( at the moment ) and can creep in under the frame . Should I just ct1 the gaps around glazing unit and pavers ? . Just ‘top up’ with sand for astetics at the end ? Or bust those pavers out and ct1 under the frame ??? can stick a sketch up showing the upstand and pavers construction if that helps

Thanks ! i guessed it was condensation - needed someone to confirm appreciated ????

Hey ! lol - the concrete was poured about 3 years ago ? There is insulation above - that only went in a few weeks ago . Just worries me ........

Right ! I’ve got most of my walk on glass in . From the photos you can see water ‘track’ lines . They’ve always been there . Cold to the touch but bone dry . Also the window internal up stand dry even in the corners where the track appears to run . So am I being optimistic that it’s condensation ? ( we are below ground ) . Previously I’ve seen water dripping off the ceiling ( even before glass was in ) . Water still gets into the build on the ground as the end is open . So just wondering if I can blame temperature differences to explain this . Can’t believe it’s a leak - tested it at ever stage .... Guess I need reassurance ?

I will but I really think in your luxury bathroom you should do it . But where can you get some glass ???? ☺️

Led’s Behind walk on glass ?

Dont forget to prime walls

No its ssg4000e ( sounds good doesn’t it )

My ‘hole’ carved out of solid rock Eps in the centre of the ‘raft’ ; styrofoam flooring ( kpa 500 I think ) under the edges of the ring beam . no problems ?

Do actually ! All 4 are in ; 3 have been mastik’d This ‘special ‘ Mastik is a dog - cures in 10 mins . So mastik less than perfect . But this is external walk on - so can be forgiven like your floor grouting ???

I’m still going to finish my entire build before @Onoff gets this bathroom complete . I told swmbo ( spell check put demon in there !!!! ) about his biblical saga . She now thinks I’m working quickly !! ??

Ah ! Now I see Previously to achieve the same I’ve just propped batten under bricks and packed it to get it level . Assuming this approach is too ‘rustic’ .....

What for ?