Pocster

Rest of house has zero heating so it’s highly possible the heat is just leaving the bathroom ( no doors anywhere ) and just heating the entire build . I’ll leave it another 24 hours

No way - I’d have to bust tiles / ply etc. ??? Is there not a shallower trap I can use ??

Oh ffs ! Now the drawer won’t clear the trap !!

Looks like the CT1 did the trick . Dryer than miss marple on a Saturday morning in Swindon

Well 24hrs just the bathroom has been on and it’s gone from 10 degrees to 13.5 Ive got the ASHP on the lowest setting . Rather have it run efficiently than heat quicker . But does that sound correct??

Never go there. Order 90% of stuff online for delivery - just so much quicker - oh and I'm lazy. ?

Can't tell from the photo if the ends are like the supplied screw in ones. The supplied ones did have 2 washers I recall. Will get out the other taps tomorrow ( same brand ) and then I'll stick a photo up...

Do you mean flexi Hep2o off those supplied flexi fittings ( which I get ) or do you mean flexi Hep2o that go straight into the tap ? I.e replace the supplied fittings .

Ok Uncle Nick - doing it now . Will test tomorrow ?

You might be right . Started it from all cold today and set re calibrate. Bathroom floor starting to warm up . Two temp sensors in bathroom ; one at 10.4 other at 11.3 . Floor doesn’t feel cold to the touch now .

Underneath . Where you just have the crap white washer then the black fixing nut . It’s really crap as water runs out from those overflow holes in the sink plug and therefore run down outside the mechanism .

But they won’t have the correct ends for fixing into the tap will they ?

Still leaks !! Silicone ??

A trillion turns of plumbers tape and it might be ok ?

Googling I see the slots are for the overflow to run into . But of course water through the plug hole will find that gap anyway . Rather crap design I think ! . Ptf tape around the upper part of the thread where the washer is ??

Well ! Water test and it leaks but around the sink waste . Don’t understand the sink plug . When open to drain water will run out those side gaps surely ? . Only 2 washers . 1 in sink , 1 underneath. Can’t see anything else wrong

Managed to get the compression reducer on the back . All rather tight but I think ok

For reasons unknown I installed the sink waste as 40mm rather than 32mm . So adding a compression reducer makes it all rather awkward

Bathroom actuator on . Others screwed right down so no ( ok , very little flow ) . Bathroom a chilly 10 degrees . Going to leave this overnight see what happens by tomorrow.

They say I’m a dreamer and apparently I’m not the only one !!! Those guesstimates at costing ???? Ambition fine . Gumption fine . Persistent fine . Delusional- not fine . A path to your achievement is what you need ; not a dream . The goals the easy bit .

Because the installer ( whom was recommended on here many times ) didn’t see the point of it .

Ah right ! Assumed closed was closed . Now you’ve concerned me I’m tempted to stick my own sensor on flow and return . I can then shut the manifold pump and actuators automatically if flow temp is too high . That sounds sensible ? . My uvc ufh output is set at the minimum I think of 30 degrees . So if I auto shut off everything if flow exceeds 35 degrees - it would be a good fail safe ?

Reading through old threads on all this and blending valves - naturally confusing myself . Understand the suggested requirement for a blending valve as to stop water to hot ( due to boiler /ASHP etc . failure ) entering the ufh . ’puts neck under blade ‘ . With these self regulating actuators and the delta being greater than 7/4 degrees - the actuator would shut - preventing potentially damaging the slab due to over heating . Erm , ( hides behind sofa ) - that’s correct yes ? ??

Carpet ? ??

Yeah I think so . Did search the forum and found some other threads on the issue . Will experiment next week ? It was just strange that the return / flow on that zone were cold after a few hours - even though actuator was on .