MortarThePoint

I've been wondering about that and perhaps even covering over with DPM plastic. DPM plastic is about £0.40/m2 and saves the UV damage to the battens and roofing membrane. I want to get the job done though, so I have to way that up. The Oak price seems to be less affected, but I worry about it being fresh sawn. Could end up with a lot of firewood!

Our garage is designed to have timber cladding above a brickwork plinth. It's now ready for the timber cladding and prices are very high. We've not been overly clear on which wood we want to go with. Options we're considering: Oak - £26/m2 for Green Oak. Larch - £20/m2 to £40/m2 latter being Siberian (Siberian was £26 just last week). Western Red Cedar - £107/m2 so that's a no then. It is double what it was in April 2021 (i.e. 2 months ago). Green Oak worries me as a self install since I don't have experience and could all warp and crack nastily. Does anyone have any advice to make me more confident as it is our preferred choice. Lots of suppliers I've spoken to have said prices are expected to go up >=30% at the end of the month.

Is that because there isn't a moisture resistant Habito?

I had planned to use a sheet of OSB3 behind the plasterboard, but think Habito probably negates the need.

British Gypsum's Habito plasterboard allows direct fixing of loads up to 15kg: https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-habito?tab0=3 It's only available as a 12.5mm TE plasterboard at various lengths. It is expensive at around £19.66+VAT / sheet. Habito: 12.5mm with area density of 11.8kg/m2. TE only and 1200 wide x 2400, 2700, or 3000 long

I don't know why they are drawing the distinction, but I'd be ale to skim Habito boards on metal studs surely:

In the installation video the Habito is touching the ground at the bottom edge. Aren't you supposed to raise it up slightly or does that not apply to Habito?

Cheeky bodgers!

Nice: https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-habito?tab0=0 These plasterboards are really strong enough to hang kitchen cabinets on? Perhaps not with all of Grandma's fine china in it!

Are they doing something like skipping a step of screwing the vertical stud to the bottom and top u-channels then? If so, I'm sure I can cope with that necessity ?

Could you elaborate on the more versatile bit please. Naively, it seems to me that it's harder to hang things off unless planned in to the construction of the partition (e.g. pattress). Does it create a wall that feels as solid as timber studs or does that more come down to the plasterboard used?

Mine would mostly have blockwork walls at one or both ends. Did the contractors screw up installing them or doing some other works years later. I can see metal studs would be less easily adapted down the line.

I think you're right. I don't have enough partitions for it to make enough of a difference.

I want to do the same on some walls. Got a price for 11mm OSB3 of £25 per sheet though ?. You're supposed to keep plasterboard off the ground and I suppose the same applies to the OSB3 but feels like some support at the bottom would be good.

I've typically limited my thoughts to timber stud partitions, but am warming to metal C studs. The timber option has felt like the 'better' option and metal done for speed in the commercial setting, but I expect that's outdated thinking. Strength is a major driver and I've felt timber has that one. A major win for Metal is no warping, twisting etc. Timber feels like it's the better choice should you think you may want wall mounted shelves etc. How do you mount skirting board to metal studs?

10mm (2*12.5 vs 15). Still not massive So you went 2 layers of 12.5mm WallBoard rather than 1 layer of 15mm SoundBloc

Considering this article on the BG website (admittedly about walls), the sound attenuation in dB is linear with plasterboard mass. I have plotted the points they identify below and extrapolated some other makeups. Two layers of 12.5mm WallBoard has better performance than one layer of 15mm SoundBloc F and is slightly cheaper. Probably not when the additional screws are factored in. It is thicker which is a negative, but probably wouldn't be noticed. Installation effort is debateable as lifting a 23kg plasterboard sheet twice is arguably less effort than lifting one 41kg plasterboard sheet. WallBoard is more available however so that may mean I have to go that route. All of this is a gross oversimplification as the acoustic benefits can't be fully appreciated in a single number, but it could be indicative.

Similar story unfortunately. I don't think Knauf of Sinai GTEC do a combined sound and fire board. Like a lot of self builders, I think I find myself discussing niche products with suppliers which when times are like they are now are just deprioritised. I don't know, but I'd guess BG produce dozens of WallBoards for every SoundBloc they make, let alone SoundBloc F.

I was planning to use a single layer of 15mm SoundBloc F mounted @ ~450mm centres in resilient bar for the ceiling. Due to availability I am wondering about changing that to 2 layers of 12.5mm WallBoard mounted @ ~450mm centres in resilient bar. The mass will actually go up from 14.1kg/m2 to 16kg/m2. Both options would be skimmed. Price is about the same and I expect the fire resistance of two layers of 12.5mm WallBoard would be as good as one 15mm layer of SoundBloc F. Any thoughts?

Looking at the White Book C06 S06, it seems it can depend if you are trying to achieve BS EN1365-2 or BS 476: Part 21: 1987. No mention of skim. If I read it correctly, 600mm centres requires 1x15mm WallBoard or better. A skimmed 12.5mm sheet feels like it should be as good/thick as a 15mm sheet, but I don't see it sanctioned anywhere. Your BCO may accept it, I don't know.

BCO said he's wanting 30 minute fire rating so 15mm of fireline OK. He asked if it was going to be skimmed and I said it was, so that may be significant. If using 12.5 sheets I'd may have to double up.

It's ceilings I'm particularly interested in. Some of it is for a garage with home office above. Regs say I have to have fire rated, but being a garage I want moisture resistant. I'll be using SoundBloc in house too and then have bathroom so want moisture resistance there

The more exotic moisture resistant plasterboard is hard to get hold of at the moment (e.g. FireLine MR, SoundBloc MR, Duraline MR). Is there a way of wet plastering a non moisture resistant plasterboard and making it moisture resistant? Alternatively, can you stack a sheet of standard MR under a standard FireLine and effectively have it moisture resistant?

I thought of adding a warning about the risk with the TI TMPx as well as it's probably tempting for some to relabel lower spec ones. I2C address may differ though.

As and example, I've got a photo from a new build show a few years ago where a cabin was reduced from £4395 to a show special of £3695 including build. It's currently £6795 : https://www.lillevilla.co.uk/shop/lillevilla-125/