Thorfun

I looked at it. Very nice system but expensive and a closed system that needs the installer to make changes. decided to go with a self-install of Loxone instead which allows me to tinker to my hearts content. I have a very long thread on here about my Loxone journey.

If your builder thinks having blocks like that in there is acceptable then I’d be concerned about how many other corners will be cut during the build! as above, they need to be replaced.

nice. thank you. I got an email from Shelly about Black Friday deals. I might take a more in-depth look and see what deals are to be had.

sounds way to complicated to me. I'm not going to change my usage to fit in with different rates. if utilising cheap rate to charge my batteries reduces my daily cost then I'm happy to just calculate what I save by doing so. e.g. yesterday I used 52.48kWh and that cost me £9.37. if I select a simple fixed tariff on EDF for comparison at 21.98p/kWh then yesterday I saved £2.16. plus I got 15p/kWh for energy exported which earned me £1.15 so, in reality, I paid £0.1566p/kWh.

Octopus tells me my usage daily in kWh and £. So I divided one by the other to get my average price per kWh. then I can calculate how much my usage would cost on a standard tariff and calculate the difference.

Doesn’t look like Tomatoes offer an export tariff. I averaged 16.2p/kWh this month on Cosy and still managed to export £9 worth of PV. can’t see myself leaving Cosy unless something really good comes along.

that's some pretty awesome looking data and visualisation you've got there! how do you accomplish that?

and that's where my confusion lay. I'm am now educated. 🙂

I honestly have not got a clue. But I can’t drill in to the beams so it has to be the blocks. I presume it’ll be fine otherwise @nod and all the other builders would’ve found out by now, right?

I didn’t know that! So 50mm minimum then which will give 30mm of strong fitting.

yes. exactly, right? you drilled a hole and then screwed the concrete screw in? that's what i've done before as well. i guess i'm completely misunderstanding the meaning of "self-tapping". i thought it means you don't have to drill a hole but that's not true is it? you drill the hole and then the self-tapping screw creates the thread that holds it in to the hole, right? i'm such a twonk sometimes. 🤦‍♂️

struggling to believe that a screw can self-tap in to concrete! i guess i'll have to buy some and give it a go.

thanks. that looks like a rather sharp point on that thing! much sharper than the other concrete screws i've seen. but, regardless, definitely looks like a concrete screw so those blue ones i linked before should do the trick. drill a hole and screw in, right? if i go for 50mm screws is that excessive? the photo of yours looks shorter than that.

i am heading that way just without the plug i'm thinking. i've no issues with the Spit gun. used it before to fit timber to steels and it was fine.

also, i'm going to use MF12 soffit cleats (https://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/british-gypsum-gypframe-mf12-soffit-cleat-box-of-100?mh_keyword=&mh_matchtype=&mh_adgroupid=&mh_network=x&utm_term=&utm_campaign=pMAX:AllChannels|CatchAll&mh_campaignid=18789495083&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-_33sZnmiQMVGqRQBh3JeAMpEAQYASABEgIN-PD_BwE) i think trying to accurately nail through the hole is going to be fraught with danger! i'm really thinking a nice safe drill and concrete screw will be better for me as a DIYer. it's just needing to translate @nod and his blue tip tek screws. 😉

@Nickfromwales would it be these standard single-shot concrete pins? https://www.kelvinpowertools.com/spit-50mm-single-shot-concrete-and-stone-pins-for-p370-100pk-c-550-p-7815 if so, how come there's conflicting info between yourself and @nod as he said it's all so confusing. 😞

thanks. are you able to link suitable fixings please? my mate has a Paslode Spit P370 Spitfire.

ahhh....Newton's 3rd law. i got an E in my physics A-level. but my body has lots of soft and squidgy bits that can absorb forces so definitely not as rigid as a solid floor above!

I have a friend with a Spit gun I’ve borrowed before but thank you for the offer. My concern is the force of the nailer and any potential effect on the finished flooring on the floor above. there’s about 50mm EPS, ufh pipes in 50mm Cemfloor screed, then porcelain tiles. For the sake of time I would be extremely gutted if the vibrations did anything to damage the tiles.

sometimes @nod I need a translator to understand what you mean! luckily, these days we have ChatGPT. so, using that information do you mean something like this? https://www.toolstation.com/dewalt-tapper-pro-blue-hex-head-self-tapping-screws/p86871 and this https://www.fastbuildsupplies.co.uk/tapcon-hex-head-screw?child_id=5019&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADLDIQF58tKyCzXVc2eAGcaNGrnBw&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIofe35fvliQMVk6VQBh0h3BhqEAQYAyABEgKu2vD_BwE and I know they say self-tapping but surely that's not in to concrete, right? so drill a hole in the block and use these to fix the MF in to the block?

Interestingly I found a link the TIMco nail-in anchors (https://timco.co.uk/0640ZNA-zamac-nail-in-anchors-zinc) and it states ”NOTE: Not recommended for overhead applications such as suspended ceilings.”

Found this on Google https://www.fastco.co.uk/blog/what-are-tek-screws/ but it suggests that they’re used to screw in to metal. @nod how do these work in to blocks?

Thinking ahead. Creating a false ceiling in the basement using MF and will need to fix to the blocks in the block and beam ceiling. I will put 100mm Rockwool above and hang 19mm Gyproc plank and 12.5mm standard plasterboard underneath. so that will be quite a weight at about 28kg/m2. i’m planning on using MF12 soffit cleats and FEA1 folded angles as my hangers for the MF7 and MF5 ceiling sections. what’s the best fixings to make sure things stay up? Concrete screws? Rawl plugs and wood screws? Something special? and how far in to the blocks should the maximum be? I.e. fixing length.

done. Didn’t take as long as I thought it would. Which is a first! 😂

Not sure what it says. I think it’s ducting to the pole. I’ve started now so I’ll carry on until I finish or it’s dark! do they come with ducting bits? I’m short a 45deg bend and I’m hoping they’ll have some on-board to save me going to buy one.