Thorfun

does that integrated white goods? like dishwashers, ovens, microwaves etc

and i thought you were such a nice guy! despite what everyone else says 🤣

assuming that's one of the invoices they ask to see though, right? i thought they only ask for a select number of invoices these days with the online submission

good luck. I'm just collating all our invoices. currently up to 561 and only up to June 2024.

Welcome back. Hope you’re refreshed after your hiatus. I also learned loads from your posts so thank you. ☺️

yes! this is what i use mine for. 🙂 although i override often in the winter as i want the rooms to heat up to save me heating them

I had similar thoughts to you when starting our journey. In the end I took the advice of many on here and our UFH is just one zone and is controlled by a wireless thermostat in our open plan kitchen. The house is a pretty constant temperature and there’s no need to adjust heating with individual room thermostats. obviously my Loxone switches tell me the temperature I just don’t do anything with it! maybe one day I’ll see if I can get a wiring centre hooked up and average the temperatures of all the rooms to call for heat from Loxone. But, tbh, I doubt it. It works just fine as a simple heating solution.

Blimey @nod those welding clamps are blooming marvellous! Best tip I’ve had in ages. Thanks. (No @Pocster!! Just no 🙄)

Don’t worry. Ordered jack-point screws and welding clamps from Amazon for delivery tomorrow by 1pm. Gives me time to walk the dog and do a bit of plumbing before they arrive!

Oh. One more question please @nod the BG video says to use jack-point wafer head screws but I’ve only got drywall wafer head screws. these are the screws I have. Are they ok to use? or do I need the jack-point screws?

Cool. So as I suggested and how @crispy_wafer did it. Good to know! I’ve just been using normal grip clamps which seem to do the job. But I’ll see if Screwfix have any of those you suggest.

Has your ceiling fallen down yet? If not then that’s good enough for me! 😂

@nod looking for a bit of advice please. when extending the MF7 primary channel on the MF ceiling BG says to do it like this. so the pieces are back to back. but this causes an issue for me as I've already attached the hangers to the ceiling in a nice straight line and so the hanger is now on the wrong side to attach to the MF7! e.g. do you move the hanger so it's on the other side (a pain as I've already hung them) or can I put 2 pieces of MF7 the same way around butted up to each other and use another piece of MF7 on the other side to joint the two pieces together? obviously adhering to the 150mm overlap so the joining piece is 300mm long. hope that makes sense!

welcome Tim. that's exactly what we did! as have many others on here. it is daunting but you soon learn after lots and lots of reading on here. 😉 i started a blog but i lost my way with it after a while as i became more hands on and didn't have the time to maintain it. but it might give you hope that if we can do it anyone can!

yeah. sorry. i don't think i explained myself very well! 1 x 1.5mm T&E cable for the 230V lights going to a spare relay completely separate from the 24V/tree stuff 1 x 1.5mm T&E cable from my Wago terminal blocks 24V block to the 24V on the Loxone tree spots 1 x Cat6A cable with green/green&white to the tree of the spots and a.n.other pair to the retractive switches with the orange/orange&white going to the 24V of the retractive switches or presence sensors etc. make sense? or am i talking rubbish as usual? 🤣

damn! something else to consider! 🤣 was just discussing it with swmbo (well not so much discussing more using her as a sounding board) and I realised that I am having some 230V wall sconces for additional lighting so I might as well just run T&E for the power requirements and a single Cat6A cable for the control requirements. so will only be 3 cables which isn't too onerous. now you've thrown a spanner in the works with the dimmer compact I'll have another think about the lighting design.

different coloured lighting can affect people's emotions, e.g. blue to help focus, red to calm etc. so when recording being able to change the colour of light can help someone if they're struggling with getting something recorded. as such, I would like RGBW somewhere in there. LED strips would work but the lack of drivers/space in the cabinet precludes that unless I want to do a massive overhaul already and add a LXN-2 underneath the existing cab (which I don't!). I have a PS&B and the current usage on most of the fuses is nowhere near the max so I can easily run some 24V spots. I also still have one fuse unused so have plenty of headroom there for me. which is why I thought the expensive Loxone tree RGBW spot route would just be easy for me as a quick solution. I'm leaning towards the 2-core 1.5mm for ease of use again. the cost difference is negligible so it'll probably come down to my own laziness and an easy life will win over. it's just there's the voice at the back of my head going "what if you want to put 230V lights in there later and need an earth?". trying to run that later would be a pain! so maybe I do just run normal T&E. have you used the Loxone RGBW spots? wondering if their claims for the smooth dimming are true. also I found some posts on the Loxone forum that mentions the spots WW were only 38° spread and not very bright, but I think they were the Gen1 spots and someone else responded with that wasn't their experience! so, again, just looking if anyone has used them and can give a review.

btw.....if i were to use Tree cable i wouldn't buy the overpriced Loxone stuff. this from FS Cables is a lot cheaper. https://www.fscables.com/products/tree-cable-jumper-wire-designed-for-loxone-system.html

hi all. thought i'd done with this thread but as i start fitting out the basement i realise that i could do with more opinions on a few things. my cabinet is pretty full and i have very few relays free or channels left on my DMX 24V RGBW WhiteWing dimmer. As such i'm thinking about fitting the Loxone RGBW Tree Spots (recessed) in our music room. Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on them apart from being expensive! i've looked at using Voltus RGBW bulbs but they're over €50 each and when you take in to account the fittings as well it's not too much less than the Loxone spots and then i'd need relays to control them whereas the Loxone ones are simply tree controlled. so it's much easier and probably cheaper in the end! the other thing is that i will probably use standard retractive switches to control the lights and so will need to run a separate Cat6a cable so i'm thinking it's not worth using Loxone Tree cable as i'd still have to run 2 x cables anyway. so i've got Cat6a leftover from the rest of the cabling and i was thinking of using that and running 1.5mm 2-core flex along with it. is that ok to do? would folk recommend running standard 1.5mm T&E even though i don't need the earth for 24V lighting? cost difference between the 2 isn't much but T&E is stiffer cable and harder to run. just looking for opinions please. 🙂

we looked in to crittle style doors and glazing for internal but it was super expensive so we didn't bother! but the open plan kitchen does allow a lot of noise out to the rest of the house because of it. good luck and if you do find someone then please post so other's may make use of them (assuming they end up being any good that is)

Have you spoken to the SE about it? Might be worth double checking to see if those fixings are ok.

We paid £1.24 a slate for our Spanish slates from Jewson. Also at the time concrete tiles had a massive lead time! times have changed since then I presume though

Why just the 2 options. How about natural slate?

I’m probably overly cynical but surely this sort of contract is all about the bottom line rather than quality of materials? Not saying Fusebox is bad but to blanket suggest that just because the contracts are worth multi-million pounds everything that’s done on them is top notch seems misleading. that’s the beauty of self-building. We can choose the products and materials we want rather than what others who may have ulterior motives decide upon.

We went Hager which was expensive but the sparky said it was for the best.