Thorfun

Thanks @nod out of interest is it normal to keep the square surround or ditch it and just keep the round drain top?

got a last minute question! the groundworkers are pouring our patio slab tomorrow and we have a drain/gulley from the flat roof above that will eventually have a rain-chain on it going in to a plant pot that will sit on top of the drain. they're saying that they've set the level of the drain cover to be about 5mm below the concrete slab which means it'll be about 30mm recessed from the top of the porcelain tiles. I'm thinking it should be flush with the patio tiles. what does the forum say?

Got the perfect solution for you @Pocster

and don't forget acoustic sealant to fill all the small gaps!

I think it’s 12kW

Just standard 2”x2” for us (ends up about 45mm/47mm). No angling at all, figured that as the cladding was tongue and groove very little (if any) water would get behind.

We used these https://www.impeyshowers.com/Wetroom-floor-formers/Aqua-Dec-EasyFit-Wetroom-Floor-Former/ made things easier to fit!

With a ducted system there is minimal drafts that we can feel. but I agree with the wall units. Careful placement is required so you’re not sitting in the draft. one regret I have is not having the money for ducted system downstairs and having to have wall units instead. But something had to give as money runs out quickly!

Extra installation costs for sure but when running it’s very efficient when just maintaining a room temperature

ultimately it depends on how much dampening you want and how much money you want to throw at it! we used Rockwool throughout and standard 12.5mm plasterboard on both sides of internal walls. we do get sound transfer but then again, it's a house and not a museum so we don't mind a bit of transfer. besides, more often than not doors are left open so no amount of sound insulation is going to fix that! 🤣 i'd suggest RWA45 personally. nicer to work with than the Isover stuff afaik and it stays in place between the studs well. we put 50mm in the walls and 100mm in the ceilings

Mitsubishi AC unit. i got a local company in to design and install it to the budget we had. as the budget wasn't limitless we had to compromise and have one ducted unit cooling both kids bedrooms which is a bit of a pain if one kid wants their room cooler than the other. but such is life.

this all equals faff! it's why i ditched the idea and just went separate AC.

there's only one solution......air conditioning. 😉

our house is cool but that's because we have the AC on! 🤣 we knew we'd want AC for the bedrooms as even with external shading things just warm up quickly and so the AC keeps us at our desired set temperature. we didn't put heating upstairs apart from electric towel radiators and ufh in the bathrooms safe in the knowledge that if we ever did need supplementary heating upstairs then the AC would do that.

i previously bought a 2.6T Kubota used it for a while to dig a driveway and some trenches and move blocks/tonne bags etc around site. i sold half of it to a friend and then eventually sold him all of it for pretty much what i paid for it. now the house is nearly complete i do need a smaller digger to help with landscaping and moving heavy things around (i'm a wimp) and so i'm looking at a 1.7T machine for around £10k inc VAT. i figure that will see me for the next 5 - 10 years and with the amount of use it will get probably won't devalue too much. in the last couple of months i've hired 2 x diggers (one 2.5T and one 1.5T) and have spent over £600 for 2 x full week hire (i didn't need it for a full week but a day's hire is stupidly expensive). i had to plan when i wanted to do the work and wait for it to be delivered etc. i feel like i've thrown that money away and i could've put it towards the purchase of a digger. having a machine on site means i can pop out whenever i feel the need to do some work. for me that's priceless as i'm a lazy ******* and am not organised at all! 🤣