Thorfun

I’m doing all that other stuff too!

this is a great question! our planning stipulated free draining driveway so we had to have permeable sublayer so rather than putting down loads of hardcore/type 1 to only have to remove it later we dug down the required depth and filled it with what will be the final subbase layer and then put terram on top and a 100mm layer of cheapest hardcore on top of that for the lorries to drive on.

I'm sound proofing as much as I can our music room. I decided to put 100mm RW5 above the double boarded ceiling to try and reduce the bass as much as possible. At 100kg/m3 I'm hoping it will do the job. but.....for anyone considering using it, it is a massive pain to use! it's so dense it's not flexible at all so it's more likely to get gaps between slabs. if I were to do it again I would seriously consider adding an extra 50% of insulation and use RW3 (so 150mm RW3) I'm so glad that part is over and I'm on to plaster boarding now.

made a start on this. there are, inevitably, gaps between the plasterboards. is there any point filling these with acoustic sealant when the second layer of boards below are going to be staggered? if so do I just squeeze on a bead and press it in with a filler knife? or is there something special that needs to be done.

does that integrated white goods? like dishwashers, ovens, microwaves etc

and i thought you were such a nice guy! despite what everyone else says 🤣

assuming that's one of the invoices they ask to see though, right? i thought they only ask for a select number of invoices these days with the online submission

good luck. I'm just collating all our invoices. currently up to 561 and only up to June 2024.

Welcome back. Hope you’re refreshed after your hiatus. I also learned loads from your posts so thank you. ☺️

yes! this is what i use mine for. 🙂 although i override often in the winter as i want the rooms to heat up to save me heating them

I had similar thoughts to you when starting our journey. In the end I took the advice of many on here and our UFH is just one zone and is controlled by a wireless thermostat in our open plan kitchen. The house is a pretty constant temperature and there’s no need to adjust heating with individual room thermostats. obviously my Loxone switches tell me the temperature I just don’t do anything with it! maybe one day I’ll see if I can get a wiring centre hooked up and average the temperatures of all the rooms to call for heat from Loxone. But, tbh, I doubt it. It works just fine as a simple heating solution.

Blimey @nod those welding clamps are blooming marvellous! Best tip I’ve had in ages. Thanks. (No @Pocster!! Just no 🙄)

Don’t worry. Ordered jack-point screws and welding clamps from Amazon for delivery tomorrow by 1pm. Gives me time to walk the dog and do a bit of plumbing before they arrive!

Oh. One more question please @nod the BG video says to use jack-point wafer head screws but I’ve only got drywall wafer head screws. these are the screws I have. Are they ok to use? or do I need the jack-point screws?

Cool. So as I suggested and how @crispy_wafer did it. Good to know! I’ve just been using normal grip clamps which seem to do the job. But I’ll see if Screwfix have any of those you suggest.