Savage87

I had no issue for the first couple of months, it's something that I had to deal with recently.

It has rubber mount on the lower back and 2 metal brackets on the upper back. I was expecting the carper underlay to dampen some of it but it didn't do much.

The MVHR is wall mounted on a solid brick wall(party wall in the loft). When I'm in the ground floor hallway downstairs and I put my ear on the wall you can hear the resonance. i have put thick carpet underlay on the party wall and between the mvhr and the wall + at least 50mm of rockwool all around the unit and a a osb box all around. you can bearly hear the unit when next to it but it does resonate when the extract fan is at 25% (where it should be balanced).

I opened up the box, took the heat exhanger out to get access to the fans and the fans seem solid and no sign on any debris.

On my unit, a Nuaire MRXBOX-ECO2, one of the fans vibrates consideraly more at about 25%, If I set it to 10% or if the unit is on boost at about 50% there's no vibration. Could it be the bearing that's at fault?

My neighbour was complaining that she could hear the MVHR when it was very quiet in the house, early morning or when going to bed she could hear the unit through the party wall. One of the fans is playing up so I had to reduce it down a bit and it stopped the virbration. But I initially thought to insulate the unit first with some rockwool and I built a box around it. That helped a bit but not a lot. In the future I will possibly need to change the fan(s).

This is what I used and it's good and cheap. https://www.toolstation.com/premium-universal-acrylic-sealant/p43528

I would say this is bad idea, this is my personal opinion, I would only use this as a last resort. I have my ones 3m apart and I would have placed them even further apart if it would have been easy to do so.

yes, I have it for both supply and exhaust, you can also get some that sit flush, but you need to make sure there's enough air coming through, as there are some that are not suitable for mvhrs. If I remember correctly you need at least 10000mm2 clearence in the vent for 125mm ducting.

this is what you're looking for, ubbink ub16 https://www.ubbink.com/en-gb/product/ventilation-tile-hooded-universal-ub16-grey-black

I actually found a website that you can put the dimentions of the car filter that you need and it give's you the cars that it fits so you can search by car make and model. That how I got my one from a Suzuki Swift. If anyone needs the link please let me know. @MJNewton I think your filters have a brother from another mother as I just pulled my ones out after about 6 months and they look identically dirty I will post some photos tomorrow.

I rang them for a solution to my smoke problem and they didn't have one.. That was when I was made aware that the unit shouldn't be switched off, it would defeat the purpose of the design.

I think it's to do with the ducts and internals of the mvhr, they should be in constant use, constantly ventilated so nasties don't form inside ?

So, I spoke to the manufacturer of my MVHR Nuaire and they said it would invalidate the warranty.For example, my mvhr has a builtin clock which count how much time it's been on and off during it's life. When designing a MVHR system it's intended use is 24h per day, 7days a week and so on (except for maintenance). If a smoke problem is foreseen, it get's sorted out at the design stage with asditional filtration. When it's badly designed or unforeen we start looking for alternative solutions, like this topic Some people might disagree, but this is my opinion.

I have one of those sensor and don't do much, plus that you shoudn't turn off the MVHR ever. I have been in contact with Blauberg for the same solution. This would add a lot of resistance to the system, it's an expensive solution and the filters are expensive as well Insted, I have bought a 5 inch filter box from blauberg(amazon) and I have also bought a automotive carbon pollen filter to go in it and replace the g3 filter that comes with the filter box. I can't say this will work as I haven't yet fitted it. For some reason I haven't been getting smoke in the house for a while, possible change in wind direction. If this fails I'm planning to get a high flow hydroponics carbon filter.

In my opinion, if I take the intake in the loft and it doesn't work, my next step would be put a Rhino filter on which I hope will sort out the problem. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222616113393

@Roundtuit I hope not. The magic tiles will probably help

@Mr Punter I had a quick look at Mikeee5's topic, I can't lower the intake, it's just not practical enought. I have noticed that when the smoke comes out from my neighbour's chimney it goes everywhere, front to back of the house. The only time I don't get any problems is when the wind blows the other way. The air is clean in the loft (I hope), next time when the nuisance happens I'll go in the loft and see if there any smoke smell in there. Has anyone ever used automotive carbon cabin filter in a mvhr?

Hi everyone. I put this problem on hold for a couple of months as it got warmer and I haven't had any problems with my neighbour and his wood burning stove. It's that time of year again, it got colder and every day now, I get regular intake of smoke filling the house and it's really unpleasant to say the least. I would try to reposition the intake inside the loft. The loft is ventilated naturally. I haven't heard anyone do this but I can't see why this would be a problem. What do you guys think?

how does a perfect distribution box look like? Try looking on facebook market place or ebay for some bargains.

PVC ducts are most likely not antistatic and possibly antibacterial The radial ducts I think are made from a different material. @PeterStarck is on the right track, the ducts have silver ion coating applied that make them antibaterial apparently. I have 2 types of radial ducting in my house, both say the are anti-bacterial. You can't see any kind of coating on them. Your first link is for a 90mm diameter duct and the second is for 75mm diameter, that is one difference. One is antibacterial and antistatic and the other isn't. I have used 75mm green blauberg semi rigid duct which is antistatic and antibacterial. The thing that made me decide between the antibacterial and the standard one was that you put it in once and it can't easily be replaced. If I could, I would have gone for metal over plastic, but it wasn't possible in my retrofit project. When it comes to the bends, it's always best to use 2x 45 degrees instead of 1x 90 degree. But looking at your comparison, I don't think it will be much differente. Depending on how much space you have for those flat channel bends, use the 2x 45s and if you don't have enough space use one 90 degree. Flat channel ducts have more resistence compared with round ducts.

It depends how much you want to get involved in it. I have installed and commisioned my underfloor heating, redone the plumbing in the whole house, moved the gas boiler myself (this was checked by a gas engineer) and have also designed and fitted my MVHR. If you have the money and you don't want the headache, pay it and let someone else deal with it. If you don't have the money and you have some spare time then do it yourself. There is a lot of info on the internet about everything that you can think about..

I have used Blauberg and Airflex in my house and the later is a lot more bendable, both are anti static and anticacterial. So if it awkward to install, I would defitinetely go for Airflex.

@Ferdinand The reverse slope that you are referring to in facing north onto the front of the house which on a busy main road. When I was designing the system, I have asked the question on which face of the roof to put the intake and exhaust and the answer was south. A couple of people contributed and we councluded that it you be best this way.

That would be to much work involved. I'm trying to find a simple fix.