Triassic

Everything was going swimmingly, the roofer had started battening out the roof, however he complained of feeling dizzy whilst on the three storey section, so i sent him to the doctors. He’s very old school of farming stock and would probably be more comfortable going to the vets! The upshot is he’s been signed off sick and needs hospital tests and has to wait until mid May for these. The doctor has told him no more roofs. So that’s it, he’s told me to find someone else! I’ve wished him a speedy recovery, he is a really nice local guy and I’m gutted for him as he’s no pension, so relies on local roofing and small building jobs. He’s irreplaceable, but somehow I’ve got to find a replacement. If only I had a magic wand, I’d wave it for him. Gutted!

I agree with much of what has been said so far, talk to the planners local to the stables to see if conversion is even possible, start your job search now, sell up and move soonest, move into the spare property at the farm, save your mortgage money, look at your existing outgoing and get rid of what you don’t need, live frugally to save more. sort out the capital gains position, measure up the floor area of the existing stables, draw a plan of how you think you would lay out the space, talk to locals who’ve used an architect and get recommendations, do some research into suitable builders, get one or two of them onto site and see what they think of your ideas, do a ball park estimate of costs (the architect would probably only give you a costing based on the floor area, if you wanted more detail you’d be paying them to produce something. If you do a lot of work yourself you could spend £1,000/m2, the more the bu8lder does the more it will cost you, if you want high end luxury you could end up spending £2,000/m2. Take some photos and hand draw a floor plan and post it here and see what others could suggest. Post questions, ask for advice on how to save time, labour costs and money. Do your homework, what do you want in a home, what’s the best way if doing things etc etc .

I find that build quality is as good as the sub contractors on site. A friend works for a plumbing company who regularly install the plumbing and heating systems on new build site. The company owner stopped employing time served and trained plumbers years ago and now simply employs minimum wage staff to do the installation work. The only qualified tradesmen is the supervisor, he’s supposed to do the commissioning and signs off their work. In most cases the work is never checked and the work quality is just about adequate with plenty of snags. Pd. I’ve just been reminded that the same company has gone onto administration three times in ten years. So customers would be hard pressed to get problems sorted out.

I’ve not been in a B&Q for at least two years, maybe that’s why they are struggling!

Just a though, does anyone know of any other manufacturers of the CEDRAL Click type of weatherboard?

Your probably right! Mind you they can’t sell much of it, I’ve even contacted the manufacturer yesterday regarding where to buy it locally and I’m still awaiting a response! Having said that, I looked at competitors product and it took them three weeks to produce a quote. Just a thought, it’s manufactured in the EU, so maybe it’s the Brexit effect!!

I’ve phoned The two local suppliers of Cedral Click and both were less than enthusiastic in their response to my questions, I got the impression they don’t sell much of it and it was too much trouble. Who did you get your off, would you recommend a particular supplier?

It’s one of the boards approved by Krend for use with their system, It appears to meet lots of standards Thermal Conductivity: 0.19 W/mKFire Classification: Class 0 Euroclass EN13501* A1 (Non-Combustible)Reaction to Fire: Passed BS EN 1716 Reaction to Fire* PassedAppearance: Solid flat sheet boardColour & Odour: White, Odourless Change of State NoneVapour Resistance: Vapour Resistance 0.31 MNs/g (EN ISO 12572*)Melting point: Melting point: 2400°CVapour pressure: EN ISO 12572: 2016 = 0.31 MNs.g-1.pH level: pH level: 7.5Solubility: Solubility: Insoluble in WaterAcoustic: 9mm Rw 28dB 12mm Rw 29dB 20mm Rw 31dB EN ISO 717-1:2013

I like the idea or colour coded aluminum or slate. I might try slate as I have some large slates left over from a previous renovation project.

With all the talk about expansion joints and ‘pillowing’ on the other thread, I was wondering if anyone has used Magply Render Board and what they thought of it? Priced at 2.4 x 1.2 x 12mm thick £27.71 ex vat. https://www.magply.co.uk/applications/render

Yes. I’ve focussed so much on the render and the cladding, I’ve not really considered what to do here !

I’m about to purchase the render board for my TF. I’m going for the 12.5mm to aid rigidity. I’m fixing these to 50 x 50mm battens which should also help stiffen everything up.

I’m planning to put mine in the corners. Should I also be leaving expansion gaps in the battens at these locations?

I’ve just started the process of cladding the exterior of my timber frame house. I’m thinking about the splash zone between the finished exterior ground level and where the exterior cladding starts. I appear to have two options, either take the cladding down to ground level or, render the gap, maybe in a contrasting colour. Come to think of it, I’m not even sure how wide should this splash zone be? What did you do, a photo might help!

I’m cladding mine in weather board, hence the need for the battens to by vertical.

I’m putting on horizontal battens first, then vertical battens second, this then gives me something substantial to fix additional vertical battens where boards butt up to each other.

Thanks for the kind offer, I’m happy with my old fashioned hammer, as I’m working on my own, so only have one speed!

Unfortunately I don’t have a nail gun!

Mine’s around 3 tonne and too big to Nick easily, Having said that at work we had a 70 tonne dozer stollen, never to be seen again! Police suggested it was stollen to order and exported the same weekend.

I’m fixing my battens and counter battens for the external fibre cement cladding. I’ve nailed the first batten in place, now I’m wondering what’s best, 4 inch galvanised nails or 4 inch screw to fx the counter batten through the batten and into the timber frame?

Has anyonr used Magply boards for their rendering, according to their web site they’re approved for use with Krend.

I think it’s a shadow as they look tight on closer inspection.

The panels will be split 6 on one roof and 8 on the other. Im thinking I’ll put the 8 on the south facing Roof and the 6 on the west facing roof.

Right, I've talked to Darren at Wagner and my options are 13 panels, giving a total of 3.956Kw. I don't like odd numbers. If I get an inverter that limits output to the grid, could I get 14 panels? If I go for 12 panels that gives an output of 3.6Kw.

I emailed with my lis5 of panel and equipment requirements and strangely I’ve not had a reply, maybe I’ll have to phone them tomorrow