puntloos

And indeed multiplying Current and Voltage gives you Watt- so that math adds up - about 268. But my designer suspected somewhat that these figures were "measured conservatively" e.g. these are real numbers not boastful numbers that salesmen like to talk about. Back in the day, crappy stereos and speakers advertised that they were "300Watt PMPO" which meant something like "if you feed it 300W for only 0.000001 second it will not catch fire and explode, but 0.000002 seconds and you're going to have to buy a new 300W PMPO speaker..." Hence - anyone have comparable numbers fed into PHPP for a more modern module?

So my builders Solar supplier has provided some inputs to their panels to feed into PHPP. Here's the relevant section: Information from the PV module data sheet for standard test conditions (STC) Technology 4-Mono-Si Nominal current IMPP0 7.78 Nominal voltage UMPP0 34.48 Nominal power Pn 268 Temperature coefficient short-circuit current α 0.040 Temperature coefficient open-circuit voltage β -0.270 PV module dimensions: height 1.658 PV module dimensions: width 0.944 Crucially, the 'Nominal power' says 268, which - assuming this actually is Watt and I understand things correctly this feels really low. Most panels I'm aware of (no idea of actual availability!) are able to reach at least 375W Am I missing something? Is 268 really a bad panel, unless perhaps it's super cheap for some reason? It is mono-crystalline, so normally that actually means 'good quality'. Anyone have the figures for their panels that are better than the above?

Smoke alarms are important, but the most common ones are very ugly and pretty big. What's the least intrusive but still legal/b-regs type of smoke alarm, or what can we do to camoflage/hide them? For one, we have a void in our downstairs ceiling, but obviousy less (if any?) smoke will reach the alarm until it's pretty late in the game. But can we somehow punch a hole in the void that lets enough smoke through? Are there innovative smoke alarm designs out there? Can I put a smoke alarm inside my MVHR inlet? (obviously still need to be able reach/turn off/service it.. ) etc etc. Help appreciated!

For a gas hob, this makes no sense to me. If anything cleaning will be harder. For induction it's a different matter. Do wonder if the hole cutting is hard or not in dekton

Huh, what did you do? If anything a big pot of water put down somewhat roughly feels like it would do more damage than I ever could by just moving some vegetables around. Obviously no meat tenderizing on your hob

See, this is why I go to buildhub, didn't think of this stuff! But, the crucial benefit is.. well.. FLUSH MOUNTED - it would be a very elegant solution, easy to clean (I always have crumbs, water aggregating right around the hob footprint) and one important point for me is that with the hob I have in mind, I could just use the "rightmost" burner while I have a bit of extended prep space of the still-not-in-use left side of the hob. Still, your point of replacements is fair but eh Yeah I believe sapienstone offered this but they were underpowered and controls were not really easy.

Couldn't find this question asked yet, but: Thinking of flush mounting my hob and sink. Are there any downsides I should think of? Of course (?) in particular I can imagine water getting into the small crack between hob and worktop, but if anything the 'top mounted' induction hob we have in this rental has a hard to clean rim that also feels like it's "attracting' water to sit right next to, or perhaps even under the bit of the hob that rests on the worktop. Thoughts?

I was thinking this, but my understanding is that "V2G(rid)" really means "V2H(ouse)" in most cases? And indeed a Nissan Leaf has a 60kWh battery. Of course you wouldn't want to use it up completely (still want some range for emergency drives to e.g. the hospital etc) but with my 1000W house I should be able to easily last 2 days and have 12kWh left (48 miles or so) ..

Fair shout but indeed we've thought about that one. It's a bit of a compromise, but the dishwasher opens up right at the intersection (near the door), so should not be blocking too much.

Just some random thoughts here: My current home is fairly energy hungry. I guess because I'm somewhat of an IT nerd I have a permanently running server - say 60-ish watts, a bunch of smart displays (10 each, maybe), electric car just a large amount of devices overall that somewhat add up to an average wattage of about 700W (6500Kwh per year) but if I add the upcoming ASHP to my estimated future usage I'll probably hit 1000W average (8000Kwh/year) How do I figure out a reasonable amount of panels and batteries.. I think as a rule of thumb, an 1000W array could optimistically create 1000kWh in the UK, if it's pointed exactly the right way. Less nice angles will drop that somewhat. The maximum amount of panels I can 'probably' do is 30, which would be 30*400=12000W which seems like the right ballpark to aim for. How much battery space would one recommend to go with that?

My current kitchen has 4 m2 worktop space (6800mm, 22 feet, 60 deep), which includes roughly 1 m2 space for hob and sink. (800 each) My new kitchen design has 2.64 m2 island (1000x2640) and 2.40 m2 normal worktop -> 5 m2, but 2 sinks, so let's say 3.5m2 left. (pic attached, worktop and sink marked in red) So in theory, yay, slightly more room, but in practice, I can imagine I don't want to leave stuff (used plates, pans etc) on the island, especially right now I'm looking at my current uncleaned kitchen and almost every inch of worktop has some random stuff on it. Should I try to increase worktop space in new kitchen? Or is it actually fine? One important fact is that a lot of my current worktop appliances - rice cooker, coffee maker, kettle, I was planning to insert inside a cupboard so that would increase space a bit more.

Yea as long as it's cleanable(ish) beyond the water that already rinses through it.. also again I would indeed avoid animal based stuff

Yeah, I guess I'm a bit more. mixed (some partially eaten breakfast cereal) but indeed avoiding animal stuff helps a ton. It's worth considering. I have a hatred of caddies because you will have to "do a lot of shuffling stuff around" - futzing with the liner, open lid with grubby hands, dripping contents (of sink) in your hands etc.. All very annoying. But yes compost.. meh. It feels more 'natural' but I'm not sure I can deal with the practicalities

Public sewer, 30,000 ppl town

Ha funny, my parents, in the late 60s, considered such a thing, and we had a glaring hole in our sink ready for it. Only to be told it was illegal. So here's my current assumption, based on 60's knowledge Good idea then. I do have a prep sink planned anyway in fact. Would you agree adding an insinkerator to it would be almost a no-brainer?

Subject says most of it, the main idea of course is that if you're prepping, it would be great to just whip anything into some type of bin, and I'm thinking having one embedded in my worktop. Something like: But a crucial problem: the smell. I'm told that having the food waste simmer not inside a cabinet inside a caddy (admittedly in my case only perhaps 80 cm below my worktop) but in a potentially not-very-well sealing bin could be problematic. What approach do you all recommend? Ideally something where getting rid of waste is "one quick flick" away rather than having to pull a caddy out (typically getting your hands dirty) or having some bowl or your sink serve as a temporary caddy, which just delays the problem and clogs up the sink.. Thoughts much appreciated 😃

Absolutely.. but it's one of tho se human things where you still want to be "facing the door" or facing walls, and somehow a separator might improve things

An update, I've updated my design somewhat to open up the space: Obviously much more spacious, just a small worry around people barging into the room, perhaps I should build a separator in front of the door?

Weird, somehow my previous post didn't actually contain what I typed. I like the idea of keeping it simple but I don't think you can have a gym in a bathroom unless you really only do 'yoga' etc.

First, thank you! I think we have some potential to move windows, we could consider it. Obviously (?) one of the reasons we positioned the walk in is to have daylight to judge clothing colors but it's not a huge deal The point of the gym size is primarily to also allow a the provisional elevator gap. With your design #2 I guess that wall could move slightly Bath is required, shower strongly preferred, yes. I like your option 2, let me see if there's some options to do this.

First of all you need to indeed put a muybridge on it - https://www.thevintagenews.com/2016/06/27/46591-2/?chrome=1 Servo motor to spin it around at speed Maybe put the rawhide song behind it Best my imaginary artsy fartsy degree can do.

So looking at my Master bedroom suite, our builder is advising against our 'pocket door system' since it might be too noisy when people are sleeping. Therefore, would love to have your thoughts on how you would fill in essentially a 8.5 x 5 wing, with the following requirements: Main space - Needs to fit a king size bed, FCU (aircon) in roof - Core idea is that the 2 adults go to bed and wake up at different times, so sneaking out, getting dressed (whilst not disturbing with light/noise) is important. We figured the walkin would work but the doors might be too noisy? Or is there a telescopic (2-layer) pocket door system that is whisper quiet? Walk-in closet (optional I suppose, but we like the idea) - 600 deep, 550 works - 3000 wide is sufficient Gym - Min size 2x3m - Service shaft is fixed, manifold could be moved. Ensuite - Needs a bath - shower semi-optional, could use the bath Current design: as you can tell a roomy gym, and the pocket door makes the master feel large when opened whilst giving space to get dressed/undressed.

My team is suggesting https://aluprof.eu/gb/architects/products/window-and-door-systems/mb-104-passive-si-door-and-window-system-with-a-thermal-break#/materials/general-information - but I haven't received pricing information yet.

Was always wondering - if you have an airtight house, passivhaus or something close to it, what's the status of bugs in the house? Is the amount of spiders, moths etc etc the same as in a normal house, because once they're in they just lay eggs and stick around, or does the airtightness meaningfully decrease unwelcome extra inhabitants?