redtop

I reckon a passive house that didn't need and didnt have heating upstairs, which is perfectly possible. Would sell for less than a less well insulated house that did have heating in all rooms. A buyer wouldnt trust someone else telling them heating wasn't needed. Also less traditional build / heating usually sells for less. Shouldn't be like this, but it is. If it wasn't new builds from mass building company's would be going down the passive route.

Ours is 910. Slightly related, when I found out the height of the light switches I thought we would really notice, they are a lot lower than in older houses to comply with regs. After a day or 2 feels completely normal. So I doubt you would notice

Is it really difficult to fit?

Good idea, need to think about it lol

Looking now at engineered wood. Fitted that before so cheaper as can do myself. One question, if we run it through all rooms downstairs, and considering the rooms are not in the same direction, so the kitchen is 30 degrees of from the lounge, connected by a hall, would it look weird to run it through or would you use Threshold strips and change the angle.... Note we have no doors downstsirs

Trouble is with the house design and how we live in it we come into the lounge or kitchen, and outside drive isn't done yet so yes stones, muck of the dogs etc. As ground floor is a floating t and g chipboard then we would need to do something to stop tiles cracking, which is more money...

we have a quote to install karndean van Gough, 170m sq including 6mm plywood base. Its coming in at just over 12k. I reckon i could buy the materials for around 8k if I did it myself. But precise I am not so run the risk of it looking rubbish. They reckon 2 of them around 2 to 3 weeks for the job. I also don't have the time really to do it myself. Any thoughts on this price? Note its 100m downstairs 70 up so we could save a bit and put carpet upstairs.

I used Stuart Thomas at energyaccess.org.uk great service, good price highly recomended

Nick, I get that approach, makes sense. But I have never seen an approach where you fix the vapour barrier to the underneath of the joists! It seems to me you would end up with a large area on the warm side with no ventilation that you cant seal properly and then how would you get the plasterboard fixed without making a thousand small holes. And what about running cables etc through the joists making more holes in the membrane. And, as its a shed so maybe not being plaseterboarded you would probably want to use the ability to hang stuff of the joists. Cant get my head around it

So they wont know what size service void you are putting in if they do a quick internal laser measure and ask a question. I would also, if worried stack a load of stuff around as it makes rooms look a lot smaller. Guess it will come down to if someone has complained or not

But you don't seal anything that can rot, ideally as you will get damp from condensation, and wood always has moisture in. Anyhow its our roof was specified and I went online and looked at a load of others and I didn't see any done like you recomend, is there anything you can point to that shows the above approach?

I think 700 sheets is well above what people here would order, got to be a ring around job for that quantity me thinks. Bloody heavy stuff to put up, I gave up half way through and used normal. Can't tell the difference now its done.

Lol, pushed the dimensions out a bit ? unless you have gone way over or had a complaint I would be suprised if they check... Are the internal walls plasterboarded yet

Well we , and many others have done this, moved in when watertight and not much else. No internal walls, temporary cables everywhere, cooking of a camping stove and no heating. Oh and outside loo in a camping tent. Was like that all winter lol. Part of the adventure. And we were skint

I have no idea if thats right but it sounds ridiculous. I could have plant and machinery on site for all sorts of reasons that have nothing to do with the build, bloody jobs worths

Why would you put the vapour layer underneath the joists for a shed? I would be hanging all sorts off the joists. And you would get the OSB and the joists exposed to the damp produced from the dewpoint being somewhere in the insulation with no ventilation. Just Search warm roof build up,

Agree that works as well ? we used the special insulation for flat roofs which has the covering you can glue to. Whole lot will be a green roof eventually, but yes you can see the creases

So simple warm roof, someone correct me if wrong. Rip of epdm, stick vapour proof membrame to OSB. Stick insulation to that. Re fit epdm stick to insulation. No insulation between joists

Rewire or risk a fire I would say, sorry

Well I copied you so we can possibly both be wrong

We glued and screwed, otherwise glue can lift the board when it expands. I know as I went back and screwed some later and had problem. I didn't do such close spacing though, prob every 300mm with more around edge and less in centre

Having bought and sold a lot of houses increasingly the solicitors seem to pick up on everything, to which I either fix if its major or decline and say the correction cost is built into the price. So do one. Its often not the buyer raising the issues.

We went with level gutters, I know ots not ideal but a bit of sitting water doesn't seem to do any harm and as the runs were over 8m having a fall would have looked rubbish

Others know this better than me, and my warm roof is a flat roof so somewhat different. I was just of the impression that condensation happens anyway when you go from warm to cold so you make sure nothing that can rot is in that zone. The vapour proof layer on top of the OSB significantly reduces it as it stops moist air from the house getting into the insulation but it wouldnt stop it entirely as you will always get some moisture migrating down from the final waterproof covering