oldkettle

It's done now. Still need to add silicone and probably an entry gland but this will have to do for now.

Thank you The only thing is it won't be sheltered - fully open very soon.

You are right and what I was missing was that the existing conduit is open at the top. So if I add a flexible one inserted in the existing on one side and in the socket on the other it will inevitably fill with water. Once I change the socket the roof is coming down - won't be sheltered for long! So no flexible conduit for now and no drain hole. Thank you.

I am fitting a properly sealed external socket. The instruction is to drill one for a top, side or rear entry but not for the bottom one. With the bottom entry I can't see a way for the water to get in - am I missing something?

I have disconnected the light wire and want to install the socket today while nobody needs the ring main. Need an advice on the drain hole please. The instruction says "For bottom entry the drain hole MUST NOT be drilled in Rear Box but the drain hole MUST be drilled at the lowest point of conduit run". Looking at the picture above, the conduit is completely open at the bottom and depending on how much wire there is I want to just position the socket to get the wire in from the bottom as this feels the safest possible way (may have to cut a bit of the conduit). Is this a reasonable plan? Or do I need to buy a flexible conduit and use it to protect the bit of the wire between the existing one and the socket entry? I guess this is where a drain hole at the lowest point of the run would make sense. TA.

Did you expect a higher or a lower number? If lighting was 20% of overall spend and shrunk to 2... Actually, here https://www.ovoenergy.com/guides/energy-guides/how-much-electricity-does-a-home-use Lighting (lamps and lights) 15% This seems to be the current split, hence there was a much higher potential saving. Won't be surprised if say overall cooking appliances consumption has actually grown in the last 15 years with people replacing gas hobs with modern electric ones. This offset some of the savings elsewhere.

Why? Lightning has become massively more efficient and some appliances are way better as well.

You are right! I had to get my glasses and take a closer look and s shot to notice this - see attached picture. There are 3 in total. Two for sockets (I suspect one of these just passes through to feed the other wall, see the second picture, it seems to exit under the sockets), the other - lights, feeds the garage itself + the outside light, this is actually marked on the consumer unit as a 6A socket. This one I will have no choice but disconnect completely. The plan is to create access for larger machines - remove the roof - remove most of the rear wall - when I actually have trades coming remove the door as it's a good and loud barrier ? Don't really want to demolish the remaining wall as may want to restore the garage in the future.

I am about to remove the roof (corrugated asbestos cement ? ) from our attached garage. One of the issues is there are sockets which are currently inside the garage but will become external which all seem to be fed from the same place - a hole in the wall ( ?) which I showed in the picture. I think I may have access to the place in the attic feeding it but it may also feed sockets inside so ideally I'd not want to mess with this. From what I can see it all sits on Type2 32A 30mA protected LN6330 RCBO. No, I don't really know what I am talking about here, but this is what got triggered a couple of times after long periods of a particularly wet weather when I failed to turn off further cable leading in the garden. Is this OK if I replace the existing double-socket with a special outside one like https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-ip66-13a-2-gang-dp-weatherproof-outdoor-switched-socket/67928 ? Am I allowed to do this without a qualified electrician? Obviously, not planning to continue using it with any of the existing wires feeding off this socket, but if feels like the easiest solution?

I only bought a pack of two but Costco had it at a reasonable price. Too late now and quite possibly available cheaper in bulk.

It is a gamble that can pay off or can cost you. Last spring I had a quote for the outbuilding. It was OK and we had enough money to pay for the whole thing but I felt certain parts were too high. In the last 10 months I have advanced with the preparation and plans quite a bit but I am sure you know that materials have simply jumped, including insulation. Whatever we choose now it is going to cost quite a bit more than last year. Have I learned my lesson? No idea, I have built nothing yet.

No sarcasm whatsoever, dead serious. It may be a big problem and expensive problem but it is certainly not a catastrophe. Catastrophe in my mind is people dying with no way of helping them, becoming destitute. Moving - nope. Just think about how many people move home every year. Sometimes move thousands of kilometres. Sometimes to a different country. Internal migration is massive, just think about China, India, US, Mexico (just to name the largest I know of), external - certainly in millions, likely tens of millions annually. The important point is of course that most of these people (or should I say us because I moved many times in my life and by thousands of kilometres twice) relocate because they choose to do so freely. Still have doubts? Just checked out of interest. 4.5 million Americans make an interstate move every year according to moving.com

What argument? About the specific number of degrees? It really does not matter, IPCC reports are not getting worse. And you don't want to specify what "catastrophe" actually means. I know why: it would be laughable. If say 100 million people need to move it is not a catastrophe - if the problem regions are identified 10 or more years ahead.

Chrome does a good job translating this.

Universe - sarcasm. 3 is a completely random number. Choose yours. And finally - catastrophic for how many? And what exactly do you mean by catastrophic? Will 10 million people die with no way of saving them? Or is it 1 billion? Or does this really mean people may need to move, potentially quite far away?

By the way, this is not correct. You just claim that "sensible" alternatives don't exist because you don't accept any solution which doesn't reach the goal that you agree with.

An alternative to what? The death of the Universe? The 3 degree average rise in temperature? Whatever it is we want to prevent there is a cost that can and should be allocated to such event and it needs to be weighed vs the cost of suggested solutions. Every time someone says "but we need to do something" unless this something is a direct action right here, right now I know that this person very likely hasn't advanced his or her thinking beyond the level of a teenager. I was there, I hope I've learnt my lesson. In any case, you don't want to discuss the numbers (not even costs) in the post or on the project website https://www.goronadelviento.es/en/who-are-we/ , this is fine. I just hoped someone would.

This makes sense. I agree that many grant schemes were unsuccessful and that in many cases money just keep going around with a lot being wasted on the way. Unfortunately - and this is obviously nothing but my personal view - zero vat on "refurbishment for energy efficiency " would in practice just lead to all the unintended consequences that we can think of plus some that we cannot. For example, trades - in agreement with homeowners - would start quoting inflated prices for "u-value improvements" while in reality doing some other work which is completely unrelated to this. If vat receipts go down the government will have to raise the money somewhere else. Tax system needs to be simple, every exception makes it worse.

It really changes nothing if in an ideal case where the island has a natural pumped storage all they can get out of it is 14% of their energy needs. With diesel generators helping to pump (!) when renewables run out. But there is no point looking into numbers because the author is "an activist". Interestingly, people who we should thank for the current level of electricity prices are not "activists", oh no. And yes, most of the western world bought into "net zero" without a proper cost benefit analysis. Heck, without any CBA.

Thank you. Yes, this is a different type of storage then. Sorry for the confusion. I am not discussing whether pumped is any good. I am only interested in figuring out whether there is any feasible solution to the problem. Taking numbers from the project site this one seems insufficient.

How about you look at your graph and compare how much electricity should come from renewables in less than 30 years. And ignore the fact that the rest is - for now - planned as a whole 35 or 40%. It really changes nothing in the calculations. The guy is in NY where things are worse (i.e. even more delusional plans) so your comment is well beside the point.

https://www.manhattancontrarian.com/blog/2022-1-25-how-about-a-pilot-project-to-demonstrate-the-feasibility-of-fully-windsolarbattery-electricity-generation @SteamyTea Do I recall correctly you are a fan of pumped storage solutions? I did not check the numbers in this post but then it references the original project and it doesn't look very promising even in quite good conditions. I wonder whether you are going to have a different view on the whole thing.

While I understand the reasons, the outcome would be the same as with energy bills: the larger one's house is, the more insulation is needed hence the benefit is larger. It also seems that the cost of insulation itself is not 80% of the overall cost, the work is very expensive and disruptive.

I am pretty much in the same position. Mine is on a slope and the groundworker admitted there is no problem losing the spoil in the garden. So in theory digging it is not a problem (I hired a digger once already), I am getting comfortable with a green laser level and surely driving a dumper is not scary, but - I don't know what I am doing ? so will likely pay somebody. Had a quote around 12K last year but this was before I had full SE drawings. And everything is way more expensive now, 20%+. Insulation is around 3.5K inc. VAT if I shop around. MOT3 is probably 600, filling clean stone is less, rebar seems to be maybe 2K including starter bars but I didn't search properly yet. Yes, sounds like you can save quite a bit - but please don't trust my word on this.

How much do you expect to save? If you go for an insulated slab your main costs are Groundworks Insulation Rebar Concrete Labour A lot depends on your ground conditions, but you are going to need a digger, likely a dumper and either a whacker plate or a roller regardless. So if you plan to have a comparable amount of insulation where will the savings come from? Rebar? Labour? Not saying there is none, just wondering. The only reason I commented is I expect a quote from the groundworker for the 63m2 Insulated slab.