oldkettle

@PeterW Under the temporary storage of aggregates delivery - in this case likely MOT 1

@saveasteading before I buy - is it geomembrane (polyethylene) or geotextile that I need? Polythene won't let the water through but won't let fines through either...

Is there any reasonable way to get shingles, sand delivered in the same load as MOT (or whatever other base they will offer) or will bulk bugs be the only option and hence too expensive?

thank you Conor, yes, worth checking the larger ones as well. Prices in NI are quite different if even Russell pays £25+. But I will try to search again - may be quarries exist here as well.

yes, I can see it's at least twice as much. Thanks! I know some people use ply but I don't have any lying around and it's not cheap. OK for a single bug that will be used in a week or two, but this can be here for a long time. Why not use it for a garage? I mean.. OK, I know it may well be temporary, but using the link above, only 6mm down is cheaper - and not that much cheaper TBH. yep. A few have calculators and a conversion factor 2.2 didn't make me too happy. Thank you, let me try this actually. Easier that calling them.

Well, I hope it's going to be just an 8-wheeler for now Whether or not we build a house is still an open question. The drive was done reasonably well so I will keep my fingers crossed but if something goes wrong this MOT will have to be used on it as well. in this case 30 plus vat sounds quote OK although this only applies to a 17tonne grab delivery from one company. Other suppliers quoted 35+tax for this. And limestone or granite will be much more.

thanks @Mr Punter as an example, here is a standard offering around here. They call it "Tipper with Grab" https://www.buryhilltopsoilandlogs.co.uk/recycled-aggregates-p-127.html Attaching the picture of our access. Can't see how a tipper could be emptied anywhere but on the drive.

I want to order MOT type 1 as will need a lot of it for different purposes starting with a garage subbase and probably garden paths. Found a few companies and the prices seem very close for recycled crushed concrete. Never bought this before so wanted to check whether I am missing something obvious. 1) I have a narrow drive where a lorry will fit but it won't be able to turn slightly and tip to the side (unless some can do it?), so I am planning to get a grab lorry delivery - they usually quote 14-16-17ton as a full load at £30-35+VAT (we are in Woking). 2) Do I need to put anything on the grass (or rather moss ? ) first? 3) Any reason to go for a much more expensive limestone? I may still need it (or type 3) when I get SE drawings for the foundation but this is going to be a separate order. 4) Will I get any discount by waiting until I know what I will need next and placing a larger order (very likely to be another 60ton + sand, shingles etc.) 5) Am I missing a cheaper source - don't know, buying via a groundworker (although not hiring one yet) or trying to find a quarry and getting somebody to deliver)? 6) Would I benefit from a certificate i.e. is it likely somebody will bring something completely unsuitable (scalpings?) to a clueless client?

If you don't mind me asking, what is your foundation / floor slab? I was a bit disappointed they don't have a standard insulated raft offering.

Was it including rendering? I remember getting a similar estimate for a 100mm ewi with render.

Thank you. I feel the main problem is that AFAIK it is not possible to make a stable layer of concrete if it is too thin (and I never actually used any before ? ) . A friend came around today and it seems the best idea so far is starting with a single row of paving bricks at the highest point and then bringing the other corners up to the same level with more bricks and mix, 3 rows at the lowest point.

Measured properly with the laser level tonight and it's worse, 130mm difference. I guess packing with timber is out of the question.

? But one corner is about 70mm higher than the other. The panels just won't stand straight either.

I have and this garage has been in my garage for a month ? The panels are movable - some I can shift alone, some need a mate.

I have recently picked up a sectional garage on freecycle. We have some kind of a patio in the middle of the garden and I am considering putting this garage there to serve as a storage/workshop as the existing garage will have to be demolished soon. The area is reasonably flat but is not level so I am looking for the easiest way to make it a suitable base. I am not sure we will want this building there permanently - it is in a nice sunny location and I'd rather move it eventually, so don't want to create future problems. It's not quite clear to me whether the existing base is just paving on a thin subbase or there is some concrete there - see the picture, the grass it definitely growing through the sealing. It has been stable over 6+ years we've been here. The two options I was considering were screed over the top (but how much of it?) or lifting the stones and putting in a thin (75mm? 100mm?) slab, the latter sounds more difficult to get rid of in the future though. I guess alternatively we could just use a single layer of paving bricks or concrete for the perimeter only to level things and leave the middle as is? Ah, and of course it's on a slope to make life easier Any advice is greatly appreciated.

The resolution for now - following the email exchange. 1. Notification of the start of work - for the purpose of CIL first of all 2. Start the demolition 3. Apply for "proposed use" LDC (quote: "on the basis that the demolition already undertaken constituted a material operation") - if I am not mistaken it's just over £100 and is certainly worth the peace of mind. And the outbuilding is definitely a separate application which is OK.

Oh yes, this one has been quite helpful, I called him before and he replied to my emails quite quickly. Will ask him further questions tomorrow.

Am I right that "them" here is the planners? I wonder how this was negotiated... But anyway, it seems we'd have to apply for LDC, will ask him what specific type I will need to create.

As I said above, there are no conditions at all. We didn't apply for BC because I don't want to spend several thousand pounds on BC drawings before we decide whether it's going to be an extension or a demolish and rebuild job. I can remove the patio and existing small retaining walls that will be on the way of any future work, this is as close to "scraping the site" as we can get ?

Thanks, CIL is definitely on my mind here. No conditions whatsoever. It is what to write in the LDC application in this specific case that I couldn't figure out. I also wonder whether we can use a single application for multiple purposes : establish start of extension work and confirm that the outbuilding we are planning is lawful.

Well, another case is where we want to build something that is likely legal - but not guaranteed (like our massive 50+m2 outbuilding). But with the extension I really have no idea what he means. We don't have to, but it will be useful, in fact, I am sure you recommended me to do just that somewhere when I posted a google earth view of our plot. In reality, right now the main reason I want this is to gain easy access for a digger and a dumper truck - again, for groundworks for the outbuilding. But I thought I could try to kill two birds with one stone here.

2+ years have passed too quickly and the situation is not great to start. So I emailed the planner: >> We are planning to partially demolish the attached garage to create access for the main building works. Can you please confirm whether this will be sufficient to constitute a material start of work to "lock" the existing planning permission? And got the following reply: >> In my opinion it would. However, if you plan to rely on this to keep the permission alive – for example, only commencing further works after the expiry of the three years – then you should consider obtaining a lawful development certificate. I have no idea whether he means we might want LDC for the demolition or something else. Before I ask him to clarify - any idea what he means here? I suspect by removing the existing little retaining walls that are both in the way of the future extension and in a way for access further back I'd make sure - but is this correct? Don't want to dig the foundation yet as that'd mean a big and dangerous hole too close to the house. TIA.

All I can say is dig it out when the digger is on site - I did it a month ago with ours and it was way smaller. Sooner or later it will escape, why spend any money on trying to prevent it when there are many nicer shrubs that will give you the screen and won't try to spread. Sorry.

How will you clear the roof between the two pitches? I may well be completely wrong here but a colleague had quite a bad experience with a similar setup where leaves and other dirt accumulated quickly, keeping water there and eventually causing a serious leak.

Thank you, this is very useful to know. Certainly a cost worth paying.