Bozza

Ok so as long as you don’t lose money that’s the most important thing. If getting quotes maybes consider having a vaulted or partially vaulted ceiling. one thing to consider through is this. Your street consists of alternatives of both house types. If you made yours a 3 bed and had windows different to the other 3 beds would the street look odd? The reason I ask is that in my former council area they wouldn’t allow dormer extensions that didn’t match the adjacent semi detached house and thus create an imbalance whereby one side of the semi had a dormer and the other didn’t. Perhaps have that conversation with you local planners. This could be a particular issue for the extra bolt on small balcony and differing windows. If they allow the extension but you are restricted to keeping the windows the same then if you have a vaulted ceiling you could have roof windows. your idea ought to be straightforward structurally, but tricky in some areas. Eg tying the new into the old. entirely possible but anything a bit tricky = more money. Don’t forget the costs aren’t just the work. Add in planning costs, the disruption, the mess. If this is a break even situation, and in the future you think you’ll need to move to a 4 bed house, eg family, and you can cope with what you have just now, it may be worth saving your money towards that bigger house. If you can assess that you’ll add a lot of value to your house -v- extension cost then that’s a wise thing to do. As you’ll add value and be able to enjoy the extra space. Eg if the work cost £30k and it adds £40k immediately, and you’re there another 5 years it’s a no brainer. the key is to get local estimates / quote and speak to an estate agent re valuation and local market. and speak to your planner. All that’s costs nothing.

It certainly looks technically feasible assuming your house is built the same as the houses that have the third bedroom already. It’s really difficult for anyone here to provide you with an accurate idea of cost and your best best is to get a local builder around to give you an idea, based upon local market costs. What is the difference in market value between the 2 bed version and the 3 bed version? Though value may not be your primary motivation it may help you decide the best way forward. If for example the 3bed is worth £100k more it’s a no brainer, but I doubt that’s the case. Your idea involves trusses and extra roof for just one extra small room so might not be financially viable as you’re building a lot of empty roof space and minimum usable sqm.. How much are you wanting to spend, if you’re thinking it may cost £10k it’s definitely not going to be that - my guess maybes £30-£40k ish. But don’t take that as gospel just my guess. trades cost can vary considerably around the country. That’s without that additional new balcony, that additional new balcony retrofitted would be very expensive IMHO. You might find its cheaper to move.

Four years ago I installed Rationel 3G Auraplus alu clad windows in my self build. And very happy with them. Last weekend grass strimmer launched a small stone at speed, that smashed the outer glass. Pane is 1961x739mm. Replacement cost £325 + VAT. If collected from depot 5 hrs round trip. Cost for engineers to deliver and install. Extra £919 + VAT. £1482 total. Holy moly. Pane is 50KG and requires two to install. Supplier was t aware it was an insurance claim when quoting. Last year when I renewed my home insurance I added building accidental damage option, something I never usually do, but did because of the ever increasing costs of pretty much everything trades related. Thankfully. My message is to reinforce how bloody expensive things are, and to consider accidental buildings insurance if you don’t normally do so. (I know I could probably get a local firm to pop in something cheaper that would fit, but likely not to match the adjacent door, and would invalidate warranty on the windows).

Ok so what you could do is draw the design yourself. For inspiration use Pinterest etc and if unsure about layout Danwood homes, and others, have some layouts that will give you ideas. I did this using PowerPoint, including importing pics of cladding etc. Post your design & layout here for suggestions and critique. Once you’re happy, pass to your architect to do the proper technical drawings for submission.

It’s perfect in my opinion. if that’s pan drawers next to the dishwasher, if not already planned, you could use them for commonly used crockery, as we do. Means emptying dishwasher is quicker and easier.

Based upon the planners granting permission for the previous owners monstrosity of a design, it looks like they aren’t precious about good architecture. But it’s not just about what it looks like it’s the siting etc. Your design would look awful between two thatched cottages, but could look superb in the right setting. I replaced a traditional rural cottage with an obviously modern house but used sympathetic materials and roof angles. It flew through planning. but I’d didn’t have immediate neighbours. Some local authority rural planning policies allow for architecture that is not in keeping as long as it’s architecturally outstanding. I’d push your architect to have the varying heights of cladding in the picture as I think her design is a bit bland and blocky & looks more like a commercial building. The picture that inspired you shows interesting shapes, angles, overhangs and differing heights, the drawing doesn’t. if I were you I’d meet the neighbours and suss them out. They might not like your ideas but may not object if you have built a good relationship. There may be opportunities to tweak your preferred design in a way that may prevent objections. Eg screen planting if they didn’t like it. Some neighbours can be dicks. And object to everything. But some self builders can be dicks by not being considerate of their community and wonder why they get so many objections. Don’t forget you have to live there.

If it were me, something new & innovative like this is needed. 1. Govt instruct local councils to identify a minimum of % of their area for housing within x months targeting brownfield sites, MOD land, factories etc etc etc prior to using greenfield. if land not already owned by state or local authority, compulsory purchases made to create fast track building zones. 2. This newly state owned zones sold as single plots to private individuals, developers, housing associations etc. As such the cost of the compulsory purchases is recovered at zero cost to taxpayer or even a small profit to the state. Nobody is making money out if it. 3. Local authorities agree a set of broad design requirements to fit in with local area and needs and produce a catalogue of hundreds of designs and styles with detailed drawings for high quality houses. Like what Kim Jong Un does with the North Korean haircuts. Any design outwith this catalogue needs normal PP otherwise default being you can just crack on and build your preferred approved design via a fast fact approval process. Eg plot 27 is pre approved for a single house, or two semis. Plot 41 for 6 flats or three terraced houses. Etc 4. Land Owners can then go ahead and build on this basis. No planning required. 5. If plot is not built on with x limited years plot ownership returns to state, without refund for purchase price. Build on it or lose it. 6. Self builders in one of these zones are VAT exempt from the outset. No paying vat then claiming back. HMRC do spot checks to ensure no fraud. Upfront build costs reduce by 20%. 7. Lending schemd so that the wealthier people can use their own savings or equity in their own homes to go into a national fund or similar that provides cheap loans to those seeking to build in these zones. Sort of a credit Union whereby the wealthier contribute at zero risk and some return (eg tax free saving), and the younger generation access and benefit from cheap loans. Effectively the wealthier lend to the poorer. The bank of mum and dad actually effectively becomes just that via a scheme. no doubt what I’m suggesting can easily be picked apart and criticised but mainly what I’m saying is if not my idea, we do definitely need real innovation to facilitate individuals and companies to build good quality homes easily, quickly and cheaply in a way that everyone wins, not just the very wealthy.

I used these to drill porcelain tiles last year, with tremendous success. I did that thing where I crammed the drill bits with water soaked sponge. Was able to drill very close to the edge of the tiles. if you use them be aware of the tendency for them to slip until your get a groove created, I found going it at a slight angle, create a slight half moon shaped groove, then bring drill up to 90 degrees to create the full circle then obviously dril through. If that makes sense. As you only have one go as the tiles are they fixed you may wish to consider creating a timber drill jig. If you wish to use them. Better still buy a similar single porcelain tile sample and practice to get your technique. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DTHGN5N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Agree with @Conor option 3 far better solution.

Yes agree with @Alan Ambrose that little kerb is retaining the tarmac drive. Leave it. so what to do is: 1. Remove / scrape out all the old stones and weeds and crap. Go down about 2-3 inches below the level of whatever the area is bordered by eg kerbs. 2. If you still have weeds dig them out and spray with weed killer if need be. Backfill any holes with the leftover debris to make a level area 2-3 inches lower. No need to wait. 3. Put down your landscaping fabric. Any will do but often comes in 1m rolls but you can get it in larger folded dimensions so it would be ideal to get some that means you wouldn’t have any joins/overlap. If you do need to overlap it yes just overlap it by a few inches. Your area is not a driveway so it’s just decorative so don’t waste your money on expensive stuff. Tips are not to do it on a windy day and to have a few rocks/bricks or whatever to weigh it down and keep it in place. At the edges I tend to just underlap any excess as if you cut it it can fray. Start putting in your stones they will weigh down the fabric and just remove the weights when you reach them. very easy low skill job to do. Calculate volume of stones required by length x width x depth. Speak to your building merchant they will tell you bag volume. But big bags are 1mx1m - the depth of bag fill can vary tbh. But maybes 80% full approx. If your calculations result in you needing eg 1.2 bags then if you can just dig lower to use more stones, or offer your leftovers on Facebook someone will buy them off you.

Be very careful. A few years ago neighbour in my parents street built a modest two storey TF extension, maybes 2-3 metres wide. It ended up uncomfortably close to the neighbours boundary / house than permitted. I think the reason was the extension was stepped in from the front elevation but for structural reasons when building they had to move if forward a bit more than expected and because the two houses were at an angle the extension front corner ended closer than planned. By about an inch or two. my understanding is that is was resolved with planning dept as an amended or retrospective application that was granted on the basis that the “victim” hadn’t objected. This was because the applicant had compensated them with an huge amount of money comparative to the cost of the extension. The applicant has no choice because if the neighbour had objected they would have had to demo it, and probably abandoned the project. I believe the error and compensation costs double the cost of the extension. it does look bad TBH as on the eye it’s is uncomfortably close.

Just scape out all the debris, weeds old chippies etc. make sure you get the weed roots out. spray if you wish to. landscaping fabric (toolstation, screwfix or whatever) down up to the edges as best you can. Then your desired stone chipping on top. Very easy / cheap low skill required. Weight of stones will keep it in place but you can use pegs if you really want to. Don’t skimp on the depth of the chippings go down enough for maybes a couple of inches Nothing worse than membrane showing through - the landscaping equivalent of a VPL. alternatively same as above but put down some topsoil and turf. Again easy DIY job. if I were you I’d try just loose laying the stepping stone, and if that doesn’t work just scrape back the chippies (or turf) and get some ready mixed mortar and mortar them down. Turf would look far better IMHO but the stones obviously less maintenance.

@nod has reminded me that this is exactly what we did our main garden for our self build and I forgot in my original reply. We have a large manhole cover in a prominent place in our lawn and this is how we dealt with it. It’s not like access is going to be regular, only if there is a problem. Would probably not turf it in though until after the build is complete due to higher likelihood of build debris getting in initially.

I agree entirely with @Crunchynut. Is it an access chamber, or a smaller rodding point that is required. When you say it’s in the middle of the garden can it actually be located where it is more discreet eg not in the middle of a lawn, perhaps in a bedding area where less of an issue. Why does the access point need to be in your garden. Is there a reason for that. It sounds like the pipes do need an access point and your best bet would be to work with the builder to find the most discreet location / least worst location.

Jail do made to measure MDF doors. They also do shapes. What you haven’t mentioned is your skill level and your budget. If your carpentry skills aren’t great I’d be tempted to design something with less angles, keeping everything square. Or are you looking at the cheapest way to get someone else to do the work. £30k is obscene. agree with other comments the likes of DIY kitchens may be a good idea as they do carcass colours other than white so less kitcheny. But they don’t do angles doors. you would definitely have many more more cost effective options if you’re prepared to compromise on the angles doors.

I’ve got a Bostitch one, no probs with it. Battery & gas. I was a jammy git, a few years back Homebase was in trouble and were closing stores and getting rid of stock. I got mine for under £400 I think it was £180 thereabouts. Brand new. I’ll probably get most of that back when flog it second hand.

If you’re going for the on site caravan option, and thus saving £thousands, maybes suggest, especially during winter months, a regular night away in a hotel, even an inexpensive Premier Inn. If scheduled ahead will give something for her to look forward and will do you the world of good to get away for a night and rest the aching body. Would also suggest, if your site allows, sectioning off the site from the caravan and spending just a few quid making it much more homely and more of caravan holiday home as opposed to a caravan on a building site . Even a bit of turf or whatever, some temp fencing or whatever. is there an option to do a detached garage first that you could in some way even if for dry storage or a temp shower etc.

1. The posts in this forum. They raise issues, problems, challenges, solutions you may not have thought of. It’s an Open University of self build with a combined genius of many. 2. Existing self build planning applications on your respective council planning portal.

You’re about to embark on an exhausting, demanding and stressful period in your life. Last thing you’ll need is having what would be an unhappy wife within a crappy caravan on a muddy building site and putting you under additional stress. Happy wife = happy life. Agree 100% with @Dave Jones, rent a property close to plot. Downsize if necessary. We went into a tiny flat for our build, and I remain happily married. Agree 1 drive hour each way after a long hard day on site wouldn’t be fun & potentially dangerous and fuel costs would eat into your budget. totally different if your wife was happy to live in a caravan on site of course, but she clearly isn’t.

I presume they mean a wall or a solid fence with acoustic properties. I’m pretty sure you cannot enclose an ASHP. They need a minimum space around them.

I meant dusk to dawn bulbs. That you can fit to most outdoor lights.

How about dawn to dusk led lightbulbs, and a simple on/off override switch in the garage ? Would that work for your needs?

Tidy job. Looks great. Which solution did you go for.

https://www.theguardian.com/business/article/2024/may/13/are-heat-pumps-more-expensive-to-run-than-gas-boilers

You could leave it / chance it but at your own risk. there appear to be a gap between the tray and the timber on the right hand side. So it’s not even sitting on that. To place it on a plinth without using the correct plinth kit it would have been better to use ply sheeting on top of a frame thus creating a false & level floor. Then bedding it on that. Warranty would have been good. if he’s given a reason for not rerouting the plumbing “in case there’s a problem with the boiler” that sounds like a nonsense reason / excuse TBH. I bet he’s on a fixed price for the job. his solution is the cheapest and easiest for HIM.