TommoUK

Yes...and you will still need a build over agreement if you are building within 3m of the sewer.

Good effort.

There is only a requirement for Prior Approval for certain types of Permitted Development. Prior Approval is a further step, between PD and full planning permission. If this extension meets all the other criteria it’s not mandatory to seek prior approval.

Planning runs with the land. So on your question, It would come down to proof. If you are relying on established use you would need a statutory declaration from the seller evidencing their period of use and you would then seek to regularise this through a certificate of lawful use. This doesn’t help you though as it was previously used by a family member not a third party.

Planning runs with the land. So on your question, It would come down to proof. If you are relying on established use you would need a statutory declaration from the seller evidencing their period of use and you would then seek to regularise this through a certificate of lawful use. This doesn’t help you though as it was previously used by a family member not a third party.

Probably permitted development if it’s single storey and less than 3m height at the eaves. This doesn’t require planning permission if you meet the requirements. Look up “permitted development - side extensions” on the planning portal.

Rain water drain? Take a look when its raining.

..Australia? Good luck with the project. Reckon you've found the right place (in all respects)

Worth a go. If you terminate, will it leave you without power? and will you have to pay to be reconnected. If so will this cost more than a service alteration? Could be six of one and half a dozen of the other.

..as far as Im aware there is no requirement to register a wayleave on the title so I'm not sure how they would know for sure

Utility (& telecoms) companies have powers (enshrined in Acts of Parliament) to seek retention of their equipment via the courts even if a wayleave has expired. As others have said, you need to get hold of a copy of the agreement. If it's a Wayleave (temporary) as opposed to an easement (permanent), has the utility company paid their rent? Has the Wayleave expired? If you want to terminate you may have to provide grounds for terminating (eg. redevelopment or non payment of rent). If you want to relocate the asset it likely this is provided for in the agreement although my guess is you would be required to pay the cost if its mid-term and/or you require the equipment to supply your house.

Probably not cheaper than stick build but it's quick. I used SIPs Direct on an 8 x 6 outbuilding. At the time is was £100 + Vat for a standard 2400m x 1200m x 144mm panel. No waste, no cold bridging. I didn't use sips on the roof, I doubled up the joists as the span was on the limits but you could use posi joists. I think the SIP supplier has a technical manual with all the construction detail so they may have a standard detail for brick slips

If it's only 5 x 8 then SIP's are worth considering. It's easy to design if you are competent on Sketchup, should be be millemeter accurate and there will be no waste. Use as many standard panels as possible, and then work out your cuts to work around windows and doors. You will have your walls up in a day. Use a house wrap, batten it, then clad it in fibre cement cladding (hardie or cedar) or a render board plus silicone render.

..beam and block also allows for heave. Clay can swell (as well as shrink) if trees have been felled nearby. The void under the B&B will help accommodate this.

All of your bullet points other than windows relate to internal changes so won't need planning. If you want to save time and money..maybe consider working out whether you can live with the existing design and footprint. If so, sit down with an engineer to work out what you would need to do structurally to make the internal layout work for you. Changes to the windows, doors and external facing materials could give you the look you want (without a full planning application) and you will just need a minor amendment to the existing permission.

Timber will be cheapest but may not give you the look you want. Have a look at horizontally mounted aluminium brise soleil systems. Lower profile than timber, light weight and easy to fix to the structure. Most suppliers will provide recommended fixing details and /or brackets

Try EE 4g broadband with an external antenna. If this doesn't work or isnt fast enough then 'Starlink' is the best option. This will give you 150-200mb. The downside is the kit costs £400 and the monthly cost is £75.

Looks like a public sewer rather than a private sewer so you will need a build over agreement. You will need this even if you don't actually build over the line of the sewer but are within 3m of the sewer. Building within the 3m zone should be ok, and you may be able to self certify the build over if you comply with certain rules, they don't like you building a new house over the actual line of the sewer unless there is an existing house there already, so you may need to move your building back in the plot or step back the part of the frontage the crosses the sewer

Yep ..I think thats the ballpark if the offsite works are straightforward. So it depends on where the supply runs in the road and the extent of the offsite dig (and reinstatement works) as this is outside your control.

..check it off with an engineer..you cant guess it

should be ok but bring your dpm up the inside of the wall at least 150mm (above the level of the outside ground level) before you fit your internal wall board

I see...so either break out that corner and make it level or fill the rest up to make it level or put in a false floor ..

..you pay per lm for the cable..I was quoted £17 per lm last year. The lions share of the cost was bringing the supply to the property boundary from the other side of the public highway which also involved a road closure, traffic diversion etc. All in all it was about £9k for a 15 lm on site connection and 6 lm of offsite connection. ..off grid options?

What’s the building used for and how big is it? Maybe work out what you need to do from a health & safety & insurance perspective, then work out if it’s viable to repair it. If not, can you start off with a simple structure and then improve it over time through fund raising, etc You can get some pretty big garden buildings online that you may be able to upgrade, or look on eBay for used portacabins and join them together if needed?

from pic it looks like 800-100mm to your soleplate? besides there's more than one way to do it. another would be to lay your dpm, then run smallish 'joists' (say 50mm x 50mm) and fill the gap between the joists with insulation before laying ply or t&g flooring and then your final floor finish