Jump to content

TommoUK

Members
  • Posts

    98
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by TommoUK

  1. If it's AIB (asbestos insulation board) its nasty stuff and notifiable work. Get someone licenced to remove it and ask them for a post completion report so you can show what has been done should you sell.
  2. You don't have to have gas. It depends if you want it for heating/cooking. An air source heat pump and electric hob will save you the extra cost of installing gas. Will bco accept 'starlink' as an Internet solution. No cable connection required.
  3. ..this can be done. You need to consider the outside ground level, the dpc level and how far to bring your dpm up your inside walls prior to finishing to prevent damp ingress.
  4. The Land Registry entry and plan is essentially a summary of the ownership details, covenants, charges etc. Tgis entry wont necessarily describe every boundary maintenance obligation. You need to try and get a copy (filed copy) of the original sale agreement (Deed). These are often 'filed' at the land registry and can be obtained for a fee. It's a postal request service unless your solicitor does it via their online account.
  5. See VAT code 708. You need to work out if you qualify as a DIY housebuilder or a Developer. At face value it looks like you are a developer so you would want your contractors to zero rate their supplies.
  6. Speak to the party wall surveyor and raise your concerns. Any damage caused to your property is the responsibility of your neighbour and the surveyors job is ensure any damage is recorded and rectified.
  7. How do we know there is re-bar in there?
  8. I doubt any engineer would sign that off.. regs or not. Have a look at a standard spec for a detached garage slab. You'd probably need twice that thickness around the edge.
  9. Maybe look at cedral or hardie plank if you want a timber look. But I'm pretty you'll still need fire rating on internal face too (2 layers of the pink)..
  10. You'll need a foundation. No point risking all the effort and cost to find out the slab breaks under the weight.
  11. Good option but on a terrace you would probably then need a daylight survey as it breaches 45 degree rule
  12. Yes, many times. You can of course put the stairs the other way but you end up no better off for more cost. And if you go up in to the loft you want to try and 'land' in the highest part.
  13. ..try and have a masterplan even if you don't build it all at the same time. Yes take out the chimney to make more room in your bathroom and future loft room but you will need party wall agreement.
  14. Have tried. Forgive the scribbles as Im on a train. I would position door to rooms to provide light to the hall/landing. Your next flight of stairs to a future upper floor would mirror existing stairs.
  15. You'd leave the stairs in the same place. You want your stairs coming out of your overall depth (as you have more of that) not the 4m width as everything becomes a bit skinny. So leave the stairs where it is and either keep it the same direction or flip it. Either way you will need a landing to and a hall to leave options for future loft development. A hall would be needed to access the existing 3rd bedroom.
  16. I'd leave the stairs and work with what you have. Options: 1. Middle bedroom becomes hall and bathroom. Hall serves staircase to new 3rd bedroom located in loftspace. 2. Fill in side return on ground floor and extend out the back a bit. Or partially fill the side return leaving a lightwell. Kitchen and shower room becomes lounge. 3. Move kitchen to where lounge currently is with WC below stairs. 4. Current dining room could become a study/ocassional bedroom.
  17. Ah..I see the other pic. Still possible with fascia cladding to hide the roll but you'd have less than 2m when open so may not be practical
  18. Will you be getting a new build warranty? Check with your proposed warranty provider before you proceed as they will.probably have minimum requirements and also a method statement/scope.
  19. ...I guess you would see 100mm or so of the 300mm roll below the existing white fascia? You could hide this with a bit of timber frame and cladding that sits flush with the external brickwork?
  20. You can get a manual secureglide roller shutter for around £1000 at garagedoorsonline.co.uk. pretty comprehensive measuring and fitting instructions. You can fit the rails fit on the inside face of your brickwork and the roll itself takes up about 300mm of headroom. The 'roll' is spring loaded and wrapped up tightly. you need to take care cutting the wrapping off as the whole thing will unravel unless it's clamped in position first. We tied a roof rack strap around the roll as a precaution. Good luck.
  21. .. if youre set on hot water ...try an LPG portable water heater with battery ignition.
  22. I've used the sedum blanket systems before. Pretty straight forward to install but if I did it again I'd put irrigation in as it can dry out in the summer. Check out 'skygarden' they do supply only and supply & fit.
  23. ..the bank interest will be noted on your title at the land registry in the 'charges register'. Effectively, this means you can't sell without the banks permission. They will approach the loan advance in much the same way as they would if they were buying the property themselves, as ultimately if you default they could repossess. They therefore wantbto make sure they have good title and an asset they can sell to recover waht theyve lent.
  24. Agreed. Its a tax, but unlike CIL theres no way of working out the cost unless you pay an ecologist to prepare a BNG matrix. So once they've done this you are told how many 'units' you need to achieve 10% net gain. Units can be bought on the open market from 'registered' landowners. Landowners undertake to improve their land and maintain it for 30 years via s.106 with the LPA. Once you buy the units from the landowner you discharge the condition and your purchase is logged on the register. You all still with me? Units cost around £30,000 on the open market. If you can't or don't buy from the open market the default is to buy 'credits' from UK government. Credits are priced significantly higher than 'Units' to force you to go to buy from the 'open market'. Hard to see how this doesn't slow down planning and increase agricultural land prices.
×
×
  • Create New...