TommoUK

.. the bank are lending you money. the loan will secured against the property by way of a legal charge (registered against the title). the bank will carry out the similar legal due diligence as if they were buying the property to ensure they have 'good & marketable title' to protect themselves should you default

If the land is outside your legal title but inside the physical boundary, what affect on value would this have if it were taken away? The policy presumably protects you for claims made my anyone else other than the railway who has a potential claim of ownership and/or other rights (rights of way etc) The indemnity policy may be a requirement of your bank, if value has been apportioned to this part of land for which the loan has been given? If it's within your boundary, fenced off and there are no other rights of way footpaths etc and not near the railway you may decide you have a decent claim for adverse possession if you have sworn statement of possession by the previous owners(s). On the other hand it may be open to the railway on one side and therefore in theory easy to see how it could be considered inside the railway estate? or there may have been a previous approach to the railway which has alerted them to the ownership query and caused the insurer to exclude them from the policy. Also bear in mind that as part of the claim for adverse possession the Land Registry would potentially contact the Railway and ask if they had any objection to the claim. So rather than poking a potential hornets nest you may be better off enjoying the use of the enlarged garden without making a claim. The policy allows you to satisfy your bank and sell on to others in the future. Finally, I believe the railways have statutory powers. Another reason for the policy exclusion? and even if you did own the land, the railway could use powers to enter and carry out works etc.

One last thought. Was the original house less than 100m2 (you implied this above). If so put in for planning to rebuild the existing house only. Complete it and carry out the extension at a later date. This may work but check with you planning consultant.

Contact Christopher Cant. He's an authority CIL

..also bear in mind that they want you to apply for a rebuild of the whole so they can claim cil on the enlarged house. The existing floor area cant be offset and CIL demolition releif won't be available on the new application as work has commenced prior to PP and prior to service of the CIL commencement notice.

Lots of councils are broke and are becoming increasingly forensic about CIL. If work has been carries out without planning and is over the 100 sqm threshold the person assuming liability will potentially pay a penalty on top of the CIL. Take some legal advice before making your next move.

I guess my point was to weigh up the perceived risk / fear factor and the effect that may have on an onward sale with the savings. If it's your forever home and you plan to DIY the cladding then it may be less of an issue.

There’s a lot more focus on cladding post Grenfell. That’s not to say you won’t find insurance cover or a mortgage. From a resale perspective if an insurer or mortgage company declines a buyers application it may result in delays (whilst questions are asked about the cladding spec) or give buyer a reason to pull out. That’s potential cost/time/hassle down the line which may or may not be a consideration for you. Probably not massive cost difference between block & render v batter/carrier board /silicone render v batten/ cedral cladding?

If it's AIB (asbestos insulation board) its nasty stuff and notifiable work. Get someone licenced to remove it and ask them for a post completion report so you can show what has been done should you sell.

You don't have to have gas. It depends if you want it for heating/cooking. An air source heat pump and electric hob will save you the extra cost of installing gas. Will bco accept 'starlink' as an Internet solution. No cable connection required.

..this can be done. You need to consider the outside ground level, the dpc level and how far to bring your dpm up your inside walls prior to finishing to prevent damp ingress.

The Land Registry entry and plan is essentially a summary of the ownership details, covenants, charges etc. Tgis entry wont necessarily describe every boundary maintenance obligation. You need to try and get a copy (filed copy) of the original sale agreement (Deed). These are often 'filed' at the land registry and can be obtained for a fee. It's a postal request service unless your solicitor does it via their online account.

See VAT code 708. You need to work out if you qualify as a DIY housebuilder or a Developer. At face value it looks like you are a developer so you would want your contractors to zero rate their supplies.

Speak to the party wall surveyor and raise your concerns. Any damage caused to your property is the responsibility of your neighbour and the surveyors job is ensure any damage is recorded and rectified.

Put your firrings on top your joists before you lay the deck.

How do we know there is re-bar in there?

I doubt any engineer would sign that off.. regs or not. Have a look at a standard spec for a detached garage slab. You'd probably need twice that thickness around the edge.

Maybe look at cedral or hardie plank if you want a timber look. But I'm pretty you'll still need fire rating on internal face too (2 layers of the pink)..

You'll need a foundation. No point risking all the effort and cost to find out the slab breaks under the weight.

Good option but on a terrace you would probably then need a daylight survey as it breaches 45 degree rule

Yes, many times. You can of course put the stairs the other way but you end up no better off for more cost. And if you go up in to the loft you want to try and 'land' in the highest part.

..try and have a masterplan even if you don't build it all at the same time. Yes take out the chimney to make more room in your bathroom and future loft room but you will need party wall agreement.

Have tried. Forgive the scribbles as Im on a train. I would position door to rooms to provide light to the hall/landing. Your next flight of stairs to a future upper floor would mirror existing stairs.

You'd leave the stairs in the same place. You want your stairs coming out of your overall depth (as you have more of that) not the 4m width as everything becomes a bit skinny. So leave the stairs where it is and either keep it the same direction or flip it. Either way you will need a landing to and a hall to leave options for future loft development. A hall would be needed to access the existing 3rd bedroom.

I'd leave the stairs and work with what you have. Options: 1. Middle bedroom becomes hall and bathroom. Hall serves staircase to new 3rd bedroom located in loftspace. 2. Fill in side return on ground floor and extend out the back a bit. Or partially fill the side return leaving a lightwell. Kitchen and shower room becomes lounge. 3. Move kitchen to where lounge currently is with WC below stairs. 4. Current dining room could become a study/ocassional bedroom.