jamiehamy

Good luck with the rest of your build.

Your ceiling height is 2300.

Ceiling height is 2300 less the plasterboard and floor covered. . No idea why you fixated on the slope.

Mine can be disregarded totally, this is spot on in every way.

The fact it's the wrong way round is competely irrelevant here, for reasons that are obvious. I've already stated, as has BigJim that there may be a small section of sloped ceiling. You can even see that in my drawing, but rather than have a daft tiny sloped bit I've elected to batten it out and ensure 90degrees. However if it's really important to have a sloped ceiling of 100mm, then yes, that's an option. I do kindly suggest that changing your attitude to problems, including your neighbours, may be helpful. The fact you refused point blank to start on the premise 'someone else is right' about this problem speaks volumes. I didn't at that point ask you to accept I was right, I asked you to look at the problem from the point of view that I was right. This is a community, with real people, people who care and try to help all comers. But if you don't play ball, especially given your serious lack of technical understanding, then you'll eventually find no-one responds to your posts.

On the drawing I've marked 'not to scale' that the wall heads are at different heights.

If you can't see if then stop wasting our time buddy.

Prove me wrong. see

I've reviewed again the picture on your truss. There will be no sloping ceiling. If you disagree with me, then draw up the truss you've pictured and draw for us how this will sit on the walls. You'll find then that there is no sloping ceiling. It's a near impossibility. You yours builder is crap, then maybe you'll have a tiny section about a handswidth. Other than that, it's going to be a simple square/rectangular room. Start with the premise I'm right and your wrong, not the other way about.

The drawing is competely wrong and misleading. You should bin it and let the builder finish and never look at that drawing again. That's not being snipey - I'm completely serious. I know you do t accept this but the root cause of many of your issues is that drawing. It's not fit for purpose in any shape or form other than a general overview of the aspiration.

Oh,and there won't be any sloping ceiling anywhere. The wall head on one side will presumably locate into the notch on the truss. The wall will likely be bettened up to meet the cross tie. Square walls on both sides +level ceiling everywhere. .

It doesnt magically give you anything. It simply allows a bit more ceiling space without raising the ridge height, with a compromise of slightly lower ceiling at one side. If you think your ceiling is too low then ask the builder to raise it by putting some additional timber before putting the trusses on. That will directly raise the ridge.

Okay - yes, it comes across as sniping. But I've pointed out before that your drawings are not sufficient. This drawing fails to show anything 'precisely' - and this is one of the key issues you are facing. It's hard to offer advice because there is no baseline against which to measure. Had you proper drawings, then you would simply compare the drawing against the actual and work out the issue. To answer your question directly - no one can tell you if you are wrong or right because it's entirely subjective. And again - why are you not asking the builder!? I have read this post a few times and can't really work out what the problem is and since there are no proper drawings (you could be doing new ones as you go) then it's almost impossible to offer anything helpful. Why don't you produce a set of drawings 'as is' with actuals now? Shouldn't take too long.

Your plan shows nothing precisely. Post it again tho as I can't see it on this thread.

Or leave well alone, i've said this before - you are not capable of managing this job (or whatever it is you're trying to do, I'm not clear). You have no idea what you are doing, and I personally think you are taking advantage of the good nature of people on here. You prattle on about issues with little context, take up time of members, create issues out of nothing but worst if all, don't bother your backside do do your own homework. Asking how thick screed should be? Really? Surprised when someone says 70mm? Please. Why does it even matter? Its your builders job, not yours. You seem to have taken on a task of second guessing everything your builder is doing. I'm amazed they haven't walked off your site. Your drawings are pretty much kids sketches and you wonder why things appear not clear? Your comment about 'pulling the job/lawyers' - either I've misunderstood the joke or you're taking the micky.

Hmm, have you tried prying the plates out little by little using a crowbar? Because it's an I Joist you can get in between the plate and the joist. Obviously go gently, but once a section lifts then you should be able to keep working round - also using an old chisel might help too. . Grinding it an option yes but last resort!

?

Wouldn't disagree with that - but life is not that simple is it?! The chances of getting the right conditions for EPDM in the west of Scotland are far higher than GRP for starters, also the labour required for EPDM is far less. I know for a fact is we had gone for GRP we would have not had the covering on for a further few months at least (we did the EPDM in Autumn - two bone dry days and zero experience before hand). Not a chance in heck we'd have done the GRP for 270m2 in that window with zero experience! Swings and roundabouts!

This might not be helpful but might depending on where the drip appears. I stupidly cut a wee bit of flashing to put at a downpipe outlet and sliced through and put a score in the EPDM (yes, don't even ask, I was nearly done and rather than...you know how it is). Anyway, I knew exactly where I'd sliced (about 3cm) and boy was it hard to find it again only 5mins later when I had the patch sorted! My point is only - once you've eliminated the other suggestions above, if it's simply a puncture no-one 'fessed up to, it can be hard to find - but easy to fix. You may need to identify a broad section and on hands and knees, work it methodically to try find it. Our EPDM has insulation directly below and then a VCL below that - which means if we ever did have a leak it wouldn't come through - not sure if you're is the same - I don't recall the build up? Point being - wherever the water is entering water could be redirected for the whole length of the pitch assuming a slight fall)? Good luck!

In Scotland the SE is responsible for structural items. Here it's almost irrelevant what the Bco thinks because he's not responsible or liable for it. It's not really a case of who wins but who do you try claim against or blame if you didn't follow the SE design - the answer is No one. If the SE design fails? The SE. Personally I wouldn't go there. If its a small amount cheaper it's not worth losing liability. If its a lot cheaper somethings not right!

For fixings, just use threaded rod from screwfix cut to size (you can get them in 1m lengths) . Resin bond it in to the concrete (pretty straight forward) and use decent washers /flat plate to ensure the load is spread. Counter sink the areas as Russell said.

Of its just for show and no actual purpose, if probably fix 4x2 into the edge of the concrete (in an L shape) , then just coach bolt in vertical battens on the outer edge as required (to match the depth of the insulation less the osb) . Then sheath with osb or whatever and render onto it? The weight will be minimal.

+2 - this problem is utterly trivial, it really is. It's a tiny area and will be super easy to rectify and not cost much. Waz down some insulation and concrete, job a good'un. Looking at the picture, it'll barely need a cube of concrete.

The sooner you augment the drawing and provide a copy to the builder, the better. The basic nature of the drawing genuinely is causing more issues here than it creates - and will continue to do so. What's happened in the past is irrelevant - the drawing serves no-one. To get over the immediate hurdle, augment your drawing - and provide it to the builder - if nothing else he'll say 'yes, that's what we're doing'. If not, he needs to alter to get the desired FFL. I don't want to dwell on it - but you MUST have this conversation with him. It's not optional. Everyone, not least you will feel better once the air is cleared on this. Moving forward further, I stand by my comment - leave him to it, or get properly stuck in and be constructive in working with the builder. And if the latter but he won't accept it, then sack him. There are many other details you'll soon come up against, many are evident when I look at this drawing in more detail. I'm puzzled by the 2000 ceiling - but that's your choice - however the drop down 350mm will need to be a good metre before the extension ffl of you'll bebumping your head - hence comment on whether this is stepped or a ramp down (sorry if I've missed)