DC5

Hi guys thanks for all the help will try those!

Hi folks, we are on a strict budget for landscaping and have quite a large area to beat into some sort of lawn. Turfing is out so I plan to seed instead. We have good free draining soil as the land was fields, however we are quite exposed to weather and in central Scotland. can anyone provide seed / grass recommendations please as I am totally clueless on this! Any help appreciated thanks.

Hi folks, Does anyone know if you are still allowed to use plastic cavity closers (around windows etc) in Scotland still? Kingspan Kooltherm ones say not for use in Scotland in the datasheet. Just curious if anyone knows the regs. Thanks. Cavity Closer

I think the priority there would be water tightness, certainly up to 300mm up the door sides. I don't think the Orcon would be suitable, I would use a high modulus silicon and then use the airtight tape to make airtight! I had to use a primer like the one below to get the tape (I used Vana) to stick to the concrete. https://insulationmerchant.com/products/pro-clima-tescon-sprimer-spray-can-primer-750ml

Thanks that’s a big help. went and had a look at membranes and tiles this afternoon, there are some big tiles on the market now!!

Hi folks, just looking for a tiller just now but considering doing it myself. Either way we have a room which is a floated slab (unheated), it is quite large around 40sqm. Can you tile directly to the slab or would some sort of delamination / movement layer be required? If so which would you recommend? Has anyone attempted this sort of area themselves? I’ve tiled plenty of kitchens and bathrooms but not in this scale. Any images or thoughts appreciated! Thanks

Hi Dave, thanks for that, this was my understanding but wanted to check. The door opens inward, is there any minimum dimensions for the step?

Hi all, can anyone help with the spec required for the step for a back door on a extension please - property is in Scotland. Please see the pic attached, I have referred this to our architect but he’s on holiday for 3 weeks now! so question is what spec is needed height wise and dimensions - do we need a slope?

Any particular type? Full round head?

Hi folks is it better to screw or nail cladding and if so any fixing brand suggestions? We start cladding in feather edge larch next week and have a lot different ways of doing it. I thought nails (stainless steel?!) might be cleaner? Any input or pics greatly appreciated. the larch has a rebate in theory hiding one fixing. Thanks

What about this!? https://www.roofingoutlet.co.uk/products/elotene-dsn-self-adhesive-vapour-barrier-10m?variant=39417717227591&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsKW-2bn__QIVPIBQBh0fawl_EAQYASABEgIhGPD_BwE

Sorry forgot to sub to this. I see the details now, I’m sure there will be a cheaper alternative to alutrix i will have a look. someone mentioned the PIR being dusty to stick an adhesive vcl to which is valid from my own experience this week for something else. I would knock the dust off with a brush then stabilise with something - maybe pro clima sprimer would work?! https://insulationmerchant.com/collections/walls/products/pro-clima-tescon-sprimer-spray-can-primer-750ml?_pos=1&_sid=8b30d352a&_ss=r

Yes to clarify it is inside the unit hence why I’m wondering if it’s blown.

Hi it is inside yes - I used a cloth on a pole to check!!

Hi all, we have not long had our windows (triple glazed alu) installed. I was present at the time to help with some of the lifting and shifting and it was all done very carefully with a scissor lift. All four shaped windows had what looked like mist in them in a very small part of the top corner which has now gone. (Inside the unit) This morning it came back fractionally when the sun came up. The installer (who did not supply the windows) said he had seen it before and it had cleared, my concern is obviously that the unit(s) are blown - I have seen this before but it looks different to this and it’s not condensation drops. I wondered if it’s because it’s very cold here and there are no doors and not all windows in yet, so inside is as cold as outside! Any thoughts before I hit the manufacturer on Monday?! Thanks

Hi, there are probably better off the shelf products. Do you have a sketch or pictures of the build up? something like Alutrix or Sigawetguard sound more suited. what’s the next layer over that?

Hi folks, Our triangular shaped windows were fitted at the weekend and I helped in this process due to the weight and size - they are in the gable end above bifolds. I mentioned that the beads are on the outside where normally I have seen them inside before. They are triple glazed aluminium by Aluk. The installer said that the weather seal was in the beads, the windows were marked and the drain holes were to the front! They look great and I’m happy but would be reassured to hear this is (or is not) normal!? Thanks

Hi folks, Our build has the windows on the ground floor specified as inward opening tilt and turn. Our window manufacturer who is currently producing the windows says they have a parts issue with completing 2 windows in tilt and turn inward opening (for a bathroom and utility room). They are on a separate wall from all the others so aesthetics aren't a huge issue and they have said that outward opening french / casement windows would be given instead. I was looking at the regs and I think that because there is a path (in our garden not public) we are not allowed to have windows opening out on the ground floor, but please correct me if I'm wrong - I would actually prefer if these windows opened out anyway! https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-technical-handbook-2019-domestic/4-safety/4-8-danger-accidents/ Any feedback greatly appreciated - please note this is in Scotland.

Hi Kevin, we went fitted in the end with green coat plx and Lindab gutters etc. It turned out to be worth every penny and was all formed on site, seeing them do soldering to the velux and flu details was very interesting and highly skilled!

Up here we generally always use dwang (I add noggin to be inclusive!!!) just to update this - my excellent joiner off his own back notched the 140mm pir under the dwangs so we are all good. As an aside yes they are probably overkill and the ply is an excellent suggestion as an alternative. We are actually fitting 50mm pir over sheeted with plasterboard as it’s easier on this huge roof to lift and also about £15 plus in total cheaper than using a 62.5mm laminate.

Thanks gents that’s a very good idea I will put it to him! With all the dwangs in and the insulation started how well it will be received….

Yes but the rafters are 195mm thick the noggins 50mm so there is a void of 90mm behind the noggin with no timber or insulation and I therefore assume a poorer thermal resistance!?

Hi folks, we are about to start insulating our cold roof (140mm pir into 195mm rafters with 62.5mm laminated plasterboard underneath). The rafters are 3.4m long and at 600mm centres. The joiner has added 3x2 dwangs in 2 rows across to support the edge of the laminates. This means the 140mm insulation steps down to 50mm thick timber in 2 rows across each side of the roof. I’ve raised this with him as I’m worried about thermal bridging he says it’s standard practice and has done it this way for years and the 62.5mm laminate underneath will negate and potential bridging issues. Our joiner has done an incredible job so far and we are very happy so not wanting to rock the boat too much but just wanted to check others thoughts on this? many thanks

Hi all just revisiting this as we are about to put insulation in, trying to decide what to do - worried that putting any product on degrades the glue in the ply?! Not sure what to do!

So what was the solution?