Jilly

The builder meeting BC during the build for inspections is standard, he/she will be used it. They just make a call and usually the inspection happens very quickly, so as not to delay things. Luckily, it’s a different part of BC, and your builder might even know the characters. They are hopefully just following the approved construction drawings so it should be straightforward once this is sorted out. It seems unlikely that your friendly builder could begin engaging his own design team at this late stage. Hopefully just a few tweaks will be needed. Self build is full of hiccups like this, be prepared for the sleepless nights. There are always ways round things. I made it my job to try to fully understand each stage of the process and the pros and cons to make informed decisions. For example, it can cost an awful lot to change your mind about something, if you walk round the site and realise you’d prefer a door/wall/bathroom in a different place. Ask me how I know…

It’s very odd. I found my LABC really helpful.

I got a second hand reconditioned shipping container for about £1k a few years ago from a local chap who does this for a living. We placed it out of site and still use it. It keeps frost off is dry and has a lock box welded. PM me if you want his details.

It would be pretty easy to set up a list of native plants and trees akin to rewilding or set aside, which could be incorporated into the outside space.

£1.5k is a bargain, I spent £6k on a ecologist with all the associated surveys etc. We found one bat, which happily flew off, ignoring the accommodation provided.

It might be a good idea to stay with the same insurance company. An old house we owned had been underpinned and we had to take on the same policy, as did subsequent owners. Not a huge deal, but you can’t shop around or they might cry ‘pre existing’ and not pay if something happens .

Hi a pensioner I am friendly with has been given a quite high quote for a new loo in a downstairs cloakroom, and I wonder if there is another way round this. After removing the old toilet, he gave a supplementary quote of £1.8k to change the flooring and fit the new one, so she had to tell him to wait. Here is a photo of how it’s been left. He’s suggested removing the wooden floor because the concrete bit where the loo sat is uneven. Fair enough, but the wooden floor is in reasonable condition, so could the old loo space be filled and made good to take the new one? Any other reasonably priced suggestions? A concealed cistern might have covered the exposed floor at the back, but the new loo has been bought now so some solution to cover the gap at the back will have to be found. I hope that makes sense😊

Ooh these are gorgeous!

Can you not extend off the current extension to keep the nice roof?

As you’ve budget for piles and you might end up there, bear in mind it’s worth getting several quotes as I found a vast difference in price. The muck away is astounding, you’ll save a lot of you have somewhere on site to get rid of the spoil.

Another area to explore is converting an existing building, barn, stable etc. More/different loopholes to jump through, plus, it could go over your budget.

I made a post called ‘Interrelated Concept Confusion’ when I was at your stage. You are doing the right thing making sure you are completely up to speed on the pros and cons (and be aware of the head explosion it will cause via sleepless nights) so you can stand your ground with your builder on the compromises/decisions you have made, and check back here when they throw up objections. Take your time.

It depends on your tolerance for your own muck, the epic emptying task would put me off 😂

You can buy one for varying amounts depending on the type, or make one with a bucket and a loo seat with a frame for very little. I wouldn’t fancy it indoors tho, but people do. How about compromising and rigging up something with a small soak away for no 1’s and then go to the house or yard loo for no 2s?

Ps another thing to consider is that the bat people may specify non breathable bituminous F1 roofing felt (an old building is likely to have this anyway), so watch out with the detailing, and be aware that the so-called ‘Batsafe’ membrane is not, it’s polyester and tangles in their feet (various lawsuits).

Listed/ heritage buildings are always more costly/problematic and I suspect you need to be especially wary of interstitial condensation risks so I think you are right to use a specialist architect. It could save you a lot of money/mistakes. Bat surveys can mount up, plus licence on top, but be aware you have some say in the design of the mitigation plan.

Would a good carpenter be able to create a solution?

You could also get a dehumidifier, Meaco are good. You can buy packs of humidistats on Amazon cheaply to put in each room so you can monitor things.

Very difficult to be sure tbh, but at that price, I would get a couple of other quotes, to see if it is fair for your area. Or as Dave suggested, buy the materials yourself and project manage it with people on day rates.

Random thoughts: A chimney sweep would clear it. Don’t forget to wear a dust mask (asthma sufferer here!). The Period House Manual is very useful for learning how insulation works in old houses. If there are cold spots which could get condensation, using breathable sheep’s wool can hold water then slowly let it evaporate might help. Rock wool is also breathable, so would be better than spray foam, I think? Others might comment. I like access panels to see what’s going on (insulate behind) in difficult places. I also have a cheap little endoscope for investigations. Old houses always seem to have wtf moments as you try to work out what previous builders and occupants have done, and jobs seem to be bigger than you thought to rectify. Be mindful of asbestos and get anything suspect tested. A dehumidifier can be very useful and a few hygrometers.

The other option is to stay in the static, go slow and ‘build as you earn’. It’s not for everyone though.

Best to start another thread for this

I know the feeling: my builders used the wrong strength blocks under the block and beam in my extension. Once I realised, I made them dismantle their work and use the correct ones, despite their protestations that it was ‘fine’. As with your error, I realised in good time, and the situation was recoverable. It’s frustrating on so many levels, but there are some things which you can let go and some things you can’t, (which is why I have wonky plastering). On a windy site what you are describing would trigger my alarm bells.

Look at ‘How a planner got Planning’ on here, it’s very useful. Could you consider building something small (ie ‘affordable’) and maybe extending later? Not all planning consultants are made equal. Try to get recommendations.

Other creams are available 😜