scottishjohn

you only show one baton far better to use cross batons ,then there is no ledge for moisture or crap to build up on over the years single batons with osb sheeting caused my house to rot as all winter the dust etc were damp ,,so 25 years on i had a problem on the north side of the roof the extra cost of double batons is very small and also gives you a bigger gap

or below them change the Pb for insulated PB and loose maybe 35mm in head room,and you got a warm roof as it already has insulation above and only rafters are not insulated,but to be fair wood is a pretty good insulator

It is not really a cold roof that is where all the occupied space is insulated from all of the loft and roof --eg flat ceilings I am guessing as it has pB then it is occupieed below the insulated roof section I would call that a wram roof so back to your question I do not see any need to slit it as there will always be low pressure on one side of the house due to winds ,heating of roof etc etc so it should cause enough of a draft to pull from one side to the other,just make sure there are no cold bits where the eaves meets the walls

I may be being thick but why would you have ,as you say a gap if you have filled space between rafters with insulation ,the osb can be hard aghianst it both sides the eaves gap is to vent the cavity walls to exterior ? I am confused is this a cold or a warm roof system a drawing please

so basically a warm roof as if it was sips panels so there should be little or no moisture inside it and making holes wil surely induce a warm flow of air where moisture can condense from heat inside house If i understand you correctly ? like it has vaulted ceilings as in a room like a loft which is heated from house?

what is a cassette roof

vented dry ridge system ? then it can come out at the tiop which is where the heat generated between tiles and mebrane will wnat the air to go

If you make new stud walls just wrap the membrane around edges of panels before you fit them -then you have a complete seal ,by the time they are screwed together

If it was pointed both inside and out with cement mortar --not lime then there will be no or littlem ovement of moisture through a granite wall great if outside was lime pointed as it can go out that way , othherwise it can only move downwards through the wall to foundations and there will be no DPC in the walls thats the reason fro having ground level at outside lower than floor level - especially ona ahouse with no DPC

normal way to build modern houses is TF and sheeted on the back and vapour barrier on inside of insulation and a breathable barrier on outside of TF not really possible unless you going to build stud walls as panels and breathable membrane attached before panels are raised into place so you could do it that way if making new stud walls is your chioce

conversly putting it on the warm side between insulation and inhabited ppart would lessen the chance and as said before most moisture in the house comes from occupation and breathing asuming outer walls are dry as you said and with the air gap there which will be vented to eaves it should stay dry if cold as cold air holds less moisture

and not sure tape will stay adherred for next 50 years

I know some will say i,m making a bigger job than required youdo not need 150mm space behind studs 50mm +is fine and yes studs look very small you could replace them with larger ones and reduce space behind then fill with what ever your choice of insulation me i would go PIR jam them in the studs and fill any gaps with foam then your vapour barier on inside of insulation and if space and money allow insulated plaster board -- - foil backed pir will not absorb any moisture and will reflect cold back to the outer wall the most of the moisture will come from you living in there so thats why i say put it on inside of insulation and if done right there should be no cold spots to cause condensation attention around window reaveals is important - behind the uprights and under the lower internal widow ledge sealing it all this stage is the key so no cold spots to cause condensation you only spend once on insulation --and it pays back forever

If they ask for a firepond the size they told me to start with was 40000 litres only got that down by the fact i have a stream running through it so it is self filling al the time

looked at this, but the cost to get an approved design done by an apporved fire engineer was £6000 before you get to fitting the system then there were questions about flow rateof water supply and maybe need for a much larger water supply pipe or a fire pond + pump to supply it the fire brigade were fairly adamant that the costs +on going inspection coosts would make it a non starter so we came back to a firepond but none of that will get round your road problem and possibly space at house for turn round and distance to siituate the fire engine from the house i would get a quote to widen the road to what they want first then look at it again it should all start with a visit from local fire officer for his views and suggestions ,as he will be the man that signs it off,,,

maybe i,m stingy but did my plant + boot room room in industrial vynl simple to keep clean

quite sure once the edges weather it will not look that bad, you could rub some oil or something on the edges to speed up the process the shaping of the lead look worse to me

It can be done and has been done, many time before ,the real question is why has this not been used for mass house building? You would think that one of the big developers must have looked into this but decided that it's not financially viable that is the real question too many vested interests maybe

it is these edges that showed delamination first built in1982 maybe they should have been fitted with silcone bead hwere they overlapped at vertical joints ? very little if any trimming of length of panels as far as i could se when they were fitted,but yes cappings were cut with a jigsaw

open for discussion how to build all these housues we need in the country not necc to be DIY but a fresh look at the whole subject it has always seemed tom e that there must be a cheap way if houses are built insections in facotries then just crane in the four outwer walls so maybe first thing is the dieal design which would suit most buyers and make it easy to mass construct them and get away from all these wet trades on site where possible with all weather constraints maybe its time to consider the most cost effectiive roofing system as well ,as these houses are aimed at the starter level not considering HUFF house type units as they are not cheap --but maybe something inbetween what we build now and them cannot be beyond the wit of man to make these in a factory with all the savings that would give I open it up to all you clever pweole to put ideas forward to discuss concrete panls with insulation atatched to inside then prebuilt wood internal panels- basic stucture ererected in a day or something like sips but a complete wall in one piece -etc

roof was laid when my garage was built 31.5m x24m and by the contractor no edge protection onsheets to stop rubbing and definately no ends treated at 30 years old i used an aggressive two pack to paint it all looked good for sometime now 40 years on its is still there water tight ,but my many weeks spent cleaning and painting were a waste of time as it is still loosing its coating complete with paint i applied all over i have never seen any tin roofs on commercial buildingd with edge protection where they overlap and that is where most of the corrosion started maybe somethiong new

from personal experience with my garage roof it was done in plastisol and after 20 years the cut edges started rusting and lifting the coating off If i were doing it again i would want to coat all cut edges with something , maybe they do suitable paint for this i am talking along tinme ago now ,so maybe they do now ? or maybe i was just unlucky

and they will bow to what ever the firebrigade say so yes talk to local fire officer first and get a feel for what they will want

do you have planning yet ? cos that when i got caught with needing a fire pond -due to distance from a fire hydrant --200m being max distance it was a conditon of planning+ BC and they directed me to the fire brigade they came and looked and then we had a discusion on size of pond this ended up with a 5000litre pond dropped from 40000 due to stream running through it and the shape of my ground and lack of flat area as for width --do you really want the fire engine to get stuck in mud in the haste to get to your property --thats why the width is what it is good luck hope you find a solution

how far are yuo from a fire hydrant? Iwas over 200m =so i have to build a fire pond and that could mean a 40000 litre pond if fire regs are same as here