scottishjohn

same old story "you pay peanuts --you get monkeys" spend on a decent one and you,ll be able to move it on later for litlle or no loss the way prices are going up

I bought a 3 year old one under 2000 hrs --will be abe to sell it on for same money when done--or very close

russel is correct --ground conditions control it all me I have free draining granite rubble etc iwth 45 degree babnk about 10metres away follwed by a 8o m drop into the quarry about 30 m,.s away so dig was hard work for digger but no need to do anything but backfill hole open for 3 days and it was raining and all water just drained away

you doing well there 6ton is £380+vat for a week --but plus deliver=pickup --that adds another £220- hence why I very quickly bought a 3ton myself

pir =0.022 std mineral wool 0.044 you quote nigh spec at 0.032 but now expesnive is that compared to std ? and even then its still neraly 50% worse and if is a non scottish roof with no sarking --then you will definately get some sort of air flow through the mineral wool how much is not easily deefinable why anyone these days would not sheet a roof and use double batons is beyond me plenty of air gap and no where for crap to gather up and then become a moisture trap and cause rot in20 years time I have a cold roof with sarking boards and insulation is in loft on top of ceiling,which is mineral wool -300mm, along with some slate vents as there are no battons --slates nailed direct to sarking

still means you need half as much PIR to get same value --or twice as much mineral wool I like NOD idea cut on small side --nail to hold inpklace then some foam to fill in

we used to use spray can matt black when going filler jobs on cars trying to get large panels flat just half a mist then a gentle flat with a long bed sander --longer than a pole sander if you can if its flat you want you ,ll soon see everywhere that needs filling no body does much in repairing panels now --same problem no skilled staffand insurance don,t want to pay no door skins fitted now --new doors --same reason I suppose my claim to fame in painting was the customer who complained that back to bare metal the paint job on his rotten old silver shadow was too shiny RR panels are never straight thats why they use lots of lead filler and need 20+coats of cellulose from factory he took it to derby to get some mechanicals done and they chipped the door where the two tone join was they rang me up and I gave them the colour codes and offerd them the paint I had left over from the job "we don,t want that we want you to quote us to repair it " needless to say I hit them hard for what was a half days job, "when you see a stick --cut it" as they say round here I never made money on full job ,as I underestimated the work -- It was 1980 - £5000 for main job RR quote_ hit with £500 for the minor repair

when I asked my plasterer why he was not polishing it the answer was that the paint would not stick that was a cop out so i would not see the undulations I still have a complete wall in my garage at old house that barry did never painted it cos i think it would have been a worse finish with paint LOL unfortunatley he had his stroke a year before my new house was ready for plastering hes ok now but not got the strength in his arms and shoulders to do plasetering his party trick was to grip a normal rafter with his fingers and do pull ups thats a grip at 70!!! he.s 80 now

a decent plaster to start with do they not polish it these days that will show all the problems before you get to painting,

my old mate barry if he hadn,t already had a stroke would have one looking at all this crap plastering are there no decent plasters anymore ?

out of interest i have done some searching and can see NO boiler manufacturer that reccomends a boiler temp of less than 55c return temp does you boiler have a temp control that allows you to set boiler temp to 30c output ? I am not wanting an argument .but i find it strange that al makers stick to the 55c return temp I am guessing this is a combi boiler ,so you do not have the leggonella problem that would happen if you ran you DHW very low with no purge on a regular bassis to much higher temp I am just interested on how this will work long term and if you can have output temp of boiler so low how will you stop it hunting as it overshoots your set temp all the time the next question is if you can run at so low a temp how will the running costs compare with a heat pump?

will that not cause the acid in the water vapour of the exhaust gases to rot the heat exchanger very quickly that temp for self condensing 55c, was to stop any build up of corrosive moisture in the heat exchanger or that what i was told

I maybe be out of date with boiler min temps -- but 21-27c cannot be your boiler temp surely self condensing biolers do not run that low --or certainly did not use to please give me more info on this set-up you heating thermal store with 50c and then regulating it from there ?

as all my floors are stick down LVT there was no way I would take the chance of needing heating later upstairs etc .so every room has its own stat and ufh I cannot make any real valid comment on running yet as I have not had a winter in here yet

that would depend on your definition of a zone my useof the word zone is in relation to room stats and number of manifolds EG one manifold for downstairs ,one for upstairs ,but how ever you describe it pipes from heat source to distibution should be insulated if for nothing else to cut down on heat loss from the pipes to areas not intended to be radomly heated

NO what i have is exactly true ,even if you run a single zone heat from ASHP should not be going anywhere until it gets to the distribution point and DHW tank and who inthier right mind would run a single zone in a 400sqm house with 4 bedrooms and other rooms you do not use very day

Iwould say from ASHP to your ufh manifolds and hot water tank

hit the nail right on the head even inside house you want the heat to go where you want it with as little heat loss as possible Im having an argument with my builder as its a large house the run from ASHP to the hot water tank which is situated upstairs in middle bedroom along with the upstairs UFH mainfold goes through other rooms in ceilings etc so i am getting heating from these 2 x22mm pipes in rooms where thermostats are not asking for heat and where it is making room temps higher than i would set them at so yes everything must to insulated from source to where you distribute it my heat gun camera shows it up very easily --hot lines in the ceilings and floors where a feed to another room goes through I know the heat is not getting out of the house , due to it being inside the insulated and sealed envelope ,but the whole point of having zoned heating is you control where it heats and where it does not I might as well not have had upstairs hall/ corridor zone at all as the feed pipes to opposite ends of house go along this some of it I will have to live with I know --but I want the feed pipes lagged from ASHP to hot water tank and control unit

I,m an old fart that is a very hands on type whats a spread sheet whats excel I presume "C" means a copy

anybody know of any and costs for submitting a vat reclaim

as title going to plumb up the sewage for next phase rebuilding of old stable to be 2 holiday rentals so even though not doing it now I already have water +elec in there --so sewage connection would be good to put in before surfacing the large area in front of building and fire pond even if just the manhole outside to connect to - and connect to rest of septic system then I can continue making the rest of the areas around the house and compound complete and finished do not want to have to dig up later bit of an old picture bshows how far we have come

wallpaper is a good way to hide the crappy plastering my dad was master painter and decorator and specialised in anaglypta and his biggest job ,so he told me, was the free trade hall in manchester in the 30,s took months to do and he was not happy with the hieght of the saffolding !!! maybe he was the only one mug enough to do it thats when it was made from rags not just paper and would last for ever and could have just large embossing , if done right you can still find it in victorian houses sometimes

I would think its very hard to do a dry mix and get it perfectly level --thats why proper screed is very sloppy --so it self levels to an extent I would consider how you going to get it smooth and flat enough for your floor I know my floor men --would not even consider using stick down lvt without using self levelling on top of the screed and then grinding it before laying the floors If your going to use cermaic tiles =--then not so much of a problem but your screed still needs to be as perfect as possible

and where they work from-all by email and google earth and no site visits

Iwas speaking to 2 people in my area and to my suprise the first one told me his planning officer was in belfast the second one even better his officer is in ATHENS greece just shows howeverything id odne by email adn how short of planning officers some areas are