Ben100

Hi, I'm about to install uPVC sash windows into my new timber frame extension. From watching this guy, my understanding is the process goes something like this. Breathable membrane to be stapled over sheathing and into window opening Flashing tape to be installed at the bottom of the window and overlapped to the external wall Window to be placed in the opening and levelled with shims Once level screw in place and mastic around external and internal gaps The issue I have is where does the window sit in the opening? Does it sit flush to the timber frame sheathing and the cladding buts around the window in some way? Or does the window protrude from the timber frame sheathing and the cladding guts up to the window? I've also seen some installers use timber seals and battens on the outside so the window can sit back in the opening. This is how I believe it should be installed, but I'm not certain. I'm a bit lots down the rabbit hole of YouTube videos on this one and would appreciate any advice Here is one of the windows.

Hi all, Can anyone recommend a brick slip system for a new timber frame extension? Cheers!

Hi all, I'm renovating an old brick house from the 1860's and have been advised by my architect to install PIR to the inside of my external walls for heat insulation. My question is how best to fix the PIR to the brick walls? The existing walls are worn and uneven, so I'm concerned about fixing the PIR with just battens and screws. Is there some kind of foam adhesive that's good for this job? Or am I making this more complicated than needed...? Cheers.

60.. millimeters?

Yes, and an unvented cylinder.

Timber frame and oil boiler. There is a gas hob in the kitchen though fed from an external gas tank.

Where is fireline usually required then?

Hi Guys, I'm about to plasterboard my utility room, and need some help choosing the correct plasterboard type. The drawing call for fireline plasterboard throughout, but do you think moisture resistant plasterboard would be better for a utility room? Thanks!

So I think I understand better now. I've seen this diagram. Cold water tank should be ok to use a pressure reducing valve, but heating header cannot be removed as it's used for expansion too.

Aha, yes understood. Is this header tank used for both central heating and hot water supply? I'm wondering if I can remove the tank, turn off the central heating, but keep the hot water supply running?

Can't I use a pressure reducing valve to bring the mains pressure down to something ok for the boiler? As I said previously, this would be a temporary workaround until I install the new system in a few months.

Hi guys, I'm in the middle of a house conversion/extension and have just removed the old roof. In the loft I've found 2 cold water tanks which I need to move or remove. This will be a temporary (few months) thing as I'll be putting in a new water system with unvented cylinder, UFH, etc. My questions are: 1. Why are there 2 water tanks? 1 is for the shower, but I'm not sure on the other. Maybe for the heating? 2. I need to remove these tanks as the are in the way of the new roof. Can I just remove the tanks and plumb them directly to the water mains, but with a pressure reducer installed? 3. Anything else to consider? Cheers, Ben

I've got around 40m2 left. Maybe I could use it on the roof instead...

The joists are 400mm centres.

Hi all, I've been working on my flat roof construction and have plenty of 18mm T&G OSB3 sheets left. I was planning to use these for the first floor flooring in the house refurbishment, but have been told by a local building that I should use chipboard flooring instead. Any idea why this would be? thanks!

The cost only seems to be around £300 more expensive than the standard non-tapered PIR. Then minus the cost of the firings, we're looking at around £200 more expensive maybe? I'm thinking the benefit of not having to have a gutter or mess about with firings could be worth the extra £200.

Hi all, Has anyone here had any experience with tapered insulation boards? I've working on my large (33m2) flat roof and need to include a slope for drainage. I've looked at firings also, but the tapered insulation boards looks to be an easier option. Any comments or tips welcome. Cheers!

A related question. Do you have to lap it over at the top so it protects the OSB top-side?

Yes, exactly. Thanks!

Hi guys, can anyone recommend a good 'breather membrane' for TF construction? thanks!

I think I'm going to buy a second hand positive placement nailer, then sell it when I'm done. This way I can take my time nailing the hangers in different parts of the build and hopefully not cost too much money.

Thanks, I’ll check it out.

This is a good question. My structural engineer specified these ones and I knew no better. Now that I’ve done some research and have used them, I recon there are better options. I’ve bought them now though, so I’m stuck with them.

So I’ve just started hanging my first floor joists with joist hangers. What a pain these are! 20 nails in each hanger and 12 of them are hard to get to! This is going to take me forever to do at this rate. Does anyone have any tips to speeding this up? Thanks!

Yes, this might be a sensible option. I guess I could upgrade the hot water cylinder (as it's too small for us) but keep the oil boiler? I'm not sure the boiler would work with the new UFH though... Also, am I correct in thinking that the boiler and heat pump would both connect to the cylinder (heat pump as primary and boiler as backup/top-up)?