Ben100

I've decided to go stick build TF, and have Cullen Timber Design design the frame for me.

Cheers guys, that's good to know!

Hi, I'm looking at the NUDURA ICF blocks and have a quote from a reseller near me. I'm trying to get a total cost estimate and need to price up rebar steels, but I'm not sure how at this stage. Can anyone who's used NUDURA ICF give me an estimate on the cost of the steels compared to the ICF blocks? For example are the steels the same cost as the ICF blocks, or 50%, 20%? Cheers, Ben

I will, cheers!

Yes, this is how I viewed it too. Out of interest, how does ICF compare to TF in terms of cost?

Hi All, In my researching TF construction and stick build as an option I've come across this article on http://easytimberframe.co.uk/technical-information/building-timber-frame-house/ regarding building your own panels or stick building. "This means that unless whoever makes the panels, or stick builds the walls, has a recognised competency, the structure may not be accepted or approved – at least without possible extra costly inspections and/or other expense. For this reason, most architects, house designers and owner builders find it more convenient and less costly to use ready made insulated timber panels from an established, recognised manufacture, to build their plans. There is also the likely future value and mortgagablity of a house that is an ‘Owner Build’ to consider." Do you think this a legitimate concern or just scaremongering? Does it cost more to get a stick built home through building regs or sign-off? Is resale an issue for owner builder?

Was there much difference in cost between i-joists and standard structural grade timber?

Thanks, I'll check it out!

Ok, cheers guys. Sounds like this isn't as much of an issue as I thought. One of my other posts in the Brick & Block forum raised this as an issue.

Hi All, I'm bumping this question up from another post I made. I'm looking at building a TF extension to an existing brick house, which will have a roof linking the brick and timber. When the timber shrinks I'll have a lopsided roof... Has anyone dealt with this before or have any ideas? Thanks, Ben

One issue that's come up from another post I made is timber shrinkage. The main issue being that I'm building an extension to an existing brick house, which will have a roof linking the brick and timber. When the timber shrinks I'll have a lopsided roof... Anyone have thoughts on this?

WOW! that looks amazing. I'm prepared for the build to take a year or two if I can make some significant savings.

If I was to build in blockwork, would I still need two blockwork skins with a cavity and then cladding? Or could I go for an inner single skin blockwork with external cladding with a cavity between them?

Ah yes, that could be an issue. The roof will span the existing brick wall and the new timber wall.

I'm looking to use timber cladding as the external skin, so I don't think I'll have this issue. Not sure if the join to the existing brick house will be an issue though?

Thanks for the reply. I've done a reasonable amount of woodwork over the years, so I think I'll be able to do a stick build with some time and practice. I've stick-built a couple of kids tree-houses, play-houses and sheds, so I have all the tools too. I'm assuming a stick-built house is mostly just a bigger version if you take out the insulation, electric and plumbing aspects...? Saying that, the idea of getting the local saw-mill to pre-cut does sound appealing. As for help, my wife's pretty handy and I can call on some additional help when needed from family/friends. My 4, 5, and 8 year old kids are keen to help too As I'm pricing up my project I'm seeing cost as being one of the mail constraints. If this is a cheaper path to take, I might have to learn on the job quick. With regards to i-joists I don't get what you mean by "If you use an i joist you will probably not build it in panel form but in a true stick sense". Would you use i-joists for the frame as well as the floor then? Cheers, Ben

I'm having trouble visualising how the forklift handles the long timber joists?

Great information, thanks! I'll definitely read your blog.

All good points. I think if I go TF, I'll build the panels myself. Framing doesn't seem to be overly difficult.

Thanks, these some good advice here!

True. I guess I'd go for open panels to reduce the weight, then add the insulation when installed. I keep leaning more towards block construction as each building block is smaller and easier to move by myself...

Access is not terrible, but a large crane or lorry for example would be an issue. It's basically up a single lane with some turns, so nothing too long. You can get a skip truck up. We have overhead power lines too, so issues with cranes again. My plan for most supplies is for delivery to site entrance, then to hire a fork life truck to haul up to site.

Hi, What's the thoughts on stick build Vs factory built timber frame? I'm considering buying the timber myself and making the panels on-site (stick build), but this doesn't seem to be a popular options for TF construction. From what I've read most seem to opt for factory built TF and either erect themselves or have someone erect it for them. My site has somewhat restricted access and I'm going to do most of the build on my own, so large heavy panels make me nervous. Price is also a factor, so is stick build much cheaper? Thanks, Ben

Cheers guys. I guess the strength and width will be set out by the architect and/or the SE too.

Hi, I’m considering different building methods and was wondering about the difference in concrete block costs. Why are some blocks £1 and others £7 per block? Some blocks say they can be used for cavity, below ground and above ground. Is this a good option or should I go for specific blocks for each area? Cheers, Ben