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Ben100

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Everything posted by Ben100

  1. So I was planning to use the 90 degree fitting off of the toilet trap to go down about 1m into the utility room below, before connecting to a gradual fall pipe already in place. For venting I’m looking to install a AAV somewhere along this stretch of pipe work.
  2. Basically, yes. I want the foul water out of the upstairs bathroom ASAP, which means straight down.
  3. Hi all, I’m looking to install a toilet on the first floor of my house and I’m trying to work out the plumbing for the foul water. Can the foul water flow directly down from the toilet trap and out? Basically straight out of the toilet and through the floor. Or will this create too much pull on the trap and cause it to empty?
  4. Thanks. What was the reasoning behind the Aquapanel around the walk-in shower area?
  5. Hi all, What are your collective thoughts on sheet material to use in an en suite? I have a timber frame en suite which I intend to tile, floor and walls, and plaster the ceiling. It will contain a shower cubicle, toilet, and sink. I'm not sure if I should use moisture resistant plasterboard, aquapanel or ply? Or if I should use a mixture, based on location? Cheers, Ben
  6. I ended up adding a slight angle to my reveals. Really happy with how they've turned out!
  7. Thanks all, I went for the angled approach. Still needs a tidy up around the edges, but it’s looking good.
  8. Ok, that simple. And I guess I'll just have to cut down the timber where 25mm is too thick.
  9. Hi all, I'm trying to work out how to plasterboard the inside of my Fakro roof windows. There is a groove around the inside of the window frame which I believe the plasterboard sits in, but that would leave a gap of around 25mm behind the plasterboard, between the plasterboard and the timber rafter. Also, the plasterboard coming out from the window would be at an angle meeting the ceiling plasterboard, unless I maintain the gap. How is this usually done? Do I need to batten out the gap between the plasterboard and timber rafter? This seems like a very fiddle job if so, as the gap in not consistent along the length of the window... Any help would be much appreciated! Cheers
  10. Thanks for the advice. The rooms are small, with low sloped ceilings, and are built to modern standards (new roof this year), so I'd expect the heat given off by the UFH would be ok. In fact I spend +8h a day in my roof office and only have to put on the electric heater a couple of hours a day (first thing in the morning and last thing in the afternoon/evening). I know it's more expensive than oil (we don't have gas), but it is a small, well insulated space... I might see if we can get some radiators up here, but I can see it being a pain to run. I also don't like the look of radiators ?
  11. hi all, I've looking to install electric UFH in my loft rooms / home offices. As it's not a massive space, 2 rooms around 28m2 in total, and is in a difficult location to run plumbing, I'm looking at installing electric UFH. What do you guys think of the kits you can get online? Are there any which are seen as better than others? Cheers!
  12. Thanks for all the great advice. I'm going to look at ducting the air inlet over to the inner side of the fireplace. This should provide the air needed by the stove without it having to cross the room first.
  13. Interesting, thanks for the detailed advice!
  14. It's an old 1860's house. I'm sure the house is leaky enough for there to be no need for an air vent, but building regs requires it.
  15. The air inlet is a few metres away from the stove.
  16. Pretty sure the stove doesn't have an air inlet. Also, the back of the fireplace doesn't exit the house, it goes into an extension.
  17. Hi All, I've recently had a lovely 8KW wood burning stove installed in my lounge which I'm really enjoying. However, what I didn't realise was that I'd also need a hole drilled in my external wall to provide 'fresh-air' in the room. This hole sits nicely behind my armchair and gives a nice cold breeze to whoever sits there. Is there anything I can do about this air-vent? Some kind of heated air inlet or hear recovers vent? Thanks for the advice!
  18. Hi All, I'm restoring an 1860's farmhouse and after removing some layers I've found an inglenook fireplace. I'm trying to restore it the best I can, so I've removed all the mortar and concrete from the brick faces, replaced badly broken bricks, and grinded out the old mortar/pointing. My question if what should I use to repoint the brickwork? I'd like to replicate the white mortar, so should I use a lime mortar or which concrete? Also, any tips on pointing would be greatly appreciated Thanks!
  19. The construction is all timber, so can't use sand and cement. No need for ventilation as the loft space is warm and has a vapor barrier. Good point on foam not being UV stable or insect proof. I may go for silicone and paint over then. Thanks!
  20. Hi all, I'm looking for recommendations on the best way to fill gaps in my exposed eaves and soffits. There are gaps of around 3-10mm around each rafter where is meets to soffits under the roof. This is letting in a draft and could also be a space for bugs to get in. I was thinking of using expanding foam in some of the larger gaps then mastic over the top with some external flexible mastic. I can then paint over the top. Does this sound ok or is there a better way? Cheers!
  21. Yes, the guys from Chess Environmental Ltd managed to fit me in that day, and I got the results a few days later.
  22. Hi, I had it tested and it was not asbestos. So all good ? Thanks all.
  23. I’ve sealed it off with plastic wrap. I’m getting it tested too. What is your guess? Asbestos or not? Cheers.
  24. I will. Just wanted a to hear what others think while I wait for the results.
  25. Just tearing back the 1980’s from my old Victorian fireplace and have found a suspicious layer above the mantle. its a white, brittle, chalk like substance around 4mm thick. There’s a mottled pattern on one side, but that could be the wallpaper. what do you think?
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