Ben100

Wouldn't you end up with the same issue? The plastic eaves tray would stop the membrane from sagging in between the rafters and allowing any water out.

Thanks guys, all great information!

Again, counter battening seems a bit overkill for just the bottom two battens. Maybe I can lift the problem battens a few mm using shims or something similar?

Could do, but it’s probably a bit overkill for the south of England ? But that does raise a question. How do you allow water to run out under the battens if you fix them to the flat OSB?

Hi all, I've just started my first roof on my extension and have a few question. The design is like so. 1. Timber frame, with pre-built trusses 2. Exposed rafter tails 3. OSB sheet material over exposed rafter tails to hide the felt/membrane and battens 3. Felt/membrane over OSB with enough overhand to go into the gutter when installed 4. First batten to create a kick-up on the bottom tile 5. Additional battens to fix tiles 6. 20/30 tiles for 30 degree pitched roof How does this design sound? Am I missing anything? One concern I have is with the OSB and felt. The OSB creates a flat surface for the felt to site on, and the battens fix firmly to the OSB and rafters. This means that I do not have any gap between the last 2 battens and the felt. Is this an issue? The other felt and battens have a small gap between them so any water can escape. I'm concerned that water may/will get stuck here and rot the lower battens? Thanks in advance for any advice! Ben

I have a quote from a local timber yard for 32x175 Black Painted Feather Edge 4.8mtr lengths @ £2.60MTR+VAT. Sounds pretty good!

Thanks all, I’m looking for feather edge cladding and to paint it black. It’s a common look around here in north Essex. As I’m painting it the actual look of the wood isn’t that important. I think I’ll go for Siberian larch as it’s hardy and inexpensive.

Hi all, I'm looking to clad the outside of my timber frame extension, and was wondering where the best place to buy the timber was? Are you guys going to online companies or buying from local timber merchants? Cheers, Ben

Ok, thanks guys! It's a small enough area, just another job to do...

Hi all, I'm working on my en suite and have a question on waterproofing the floor. The en suite is on the second floor, with a build-up of 22mm OSB and 10mm concrete screen with electric UFH in it. The shower tray and cubicle has been tanked and taped, and I've used hardi back board on the walls. Do I need to tank the rest of the en suite floor outside of the shower tray? Or can I tile over the screen with a water resistant adhesive and grout? Cheers!

Good point. I was thinking ASHP heats to a lower temp, but wasn't considering the heating element.

I've not planned which size ASHP to go for yet, but I like the idea of an electric top-up!

The element is around 1/3 of the way up from the bottom.

Good to know. I'm replacing the existing radiators on the first floor and installing UFH on the ground floor, so I can oversize as needed. I'm running 100% off of my cylinder element at the moment, so maybe that's why I'm running out of water...

Hi, I'm looking at the option of replacing my oil boiler with an ASHP, but I'm worries that I'll run out of hot water more often. I have a new large hot water cylinder ~300L, but we're a family of 5 living here with 3 bathrooms. I'm worries that if I move from oil to ASHP the water will be cooler, so we'll use more hot water when we shower and run out. I'm interested in others experiences of a similar situation? Thanks!

yes, will do! ?

Right. I was going to batten out to create the void, but your way is better!

Ah, interesting. I see you’ve mounted the valve and shower to the sheathing instead of the joists. Good idea! How did you secure your shower arm? My arm says you’ve got to use a back nut, but the thread is only 14mm. How are you supposed to get the thread through tiles, plasterboard, back nut, and compression fitting on 14mm!? ?

Right, got it. I’ll change the 45 to a straight drop and out along the floor at a 1:80. Cheers!

Ok, what’s the reason for this way? The reason I’ve installed it like this is because I didn’t want to come down by the outside wall window. Also, on the other side of the outside wall the pipe makes a 90 degree turn, so I was worried about a big fall before hitting the 90.

Hi all, I’ve purchased a shower arm, head, and valve from Victorian Plumbing, but I can’t work out how they fit together...? It seems they don’t provide the connections between them all. Will I need some kind of flexible connector? Here are the parts https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/arezzo-matt-black-concealed-individual-stop-tap-thermostatic-control-shower-valve and https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/arezzo-round-200mm-matt-black-fixed-shower-head-wall-mounted-arm

thanks. I’ve uploaded some pictures above showing the layout ☝️

Sorry for the slow reply. I needed to install the pipe work to show what I mean! As you can see, both the soil pipe and waste pipe are dropping directly down about 1m from the traps. Is this ok? And where should I install the vent? I was thinking of installing a vent pipe out to the roof, in the same length of vertical soil pipe which the waste pipe connects to.

I thought the AAV just needs to be 10cm above the waste pipe? 1m above the basin is quite high!

Ok. I’ve read that the AAV needs to be within 2m of the WC. Is this correct?