G and J

That’s a petrol pump for an e-bike, you can see the 13a socket by the side.

I’m sorry. I must rant harder. (And I am green tinged really, our current house has an oil boiler, a bottled gas hob, and three wood burners and the new one will have an ASHP and only one woodburner and we are debating whether to have a permanent or portable induction hob).

Perhaps it can be argued that our society's base assumption of 24/7 electricity is not sustainable.

That can’t be a workshop - there’s some floor showing!

Good plan. Don’t forget the armchair and side table next to said woodburner. Oh and the stovetop kettle. And maybe a few snacks. And how about a TV on the wall on the left…..

I like to be helpful but this early on a Sunday morning the phsyics leave me empty and yearning for more coffee. So instead I’ll offer my two-penneth of help in another area. I think in Blighty it’s either maths (plural) or arithmetic. Or are they calculations? OK, I give up, I’ll go make coffee.

Oh ok, I will put loads of solar panels on the roof then…. then I can feel all smug…. just got to build the bugger first!

@Gordo Ta.

I was told by the technical guy at the company who’ll be supplying our fire, etc. that mineral wool can smell rather when used to pack around an insulated flu. Given that peeps have used mineral wool round their flus did they find it stinky?

If you're going to have the radiator/towel rail as drawn check you're not going to catch it with the swing of the door......that type are pretty deep Early morning sp deficit!

Maybe I should put half a dozen of the same panels on my man cave at the bottom of the garden to use on the main roof if needed.

I do not believe so. Sorry.

@Gordo Is this the one you mean?

Tick to all those…. In fact the reduced natural slate costs make Solar pv really easy to cost in, and I think it’s looks a lot better. Not sure about complexity of fitting. Having been on a roof recently looking at GSE trays they look pretty simple to me, and an awful lot less faff than retro fitting bird guards. The flashing detail looked easily doable too, so I’m not sure about that as a downside either, especially given the real waterproofing of a roof is the underlay, which is unaffected. I’m sitting in a house that we built 33 years ago, with a design life of 25 years. Plus, in 30 years a few dicky solar panels will be the least of my worries as I stumble through my tenth decade, so that one won’t worry me personally, and I’m not sure, with optimisers fitted, if it’ll be much of a worry to most peeps. I did at one point concern myself with the loss of efficiency at high temperatures, but that could be reduced by counterbattening and besides, that efficiency drop will only be when there’s tons of solar anyway, so for me less of a concern. Regardless of the technicals, I think flush solar looks finished, so that’s the decider for me.

Crumbs, that’s fab attention to detail. What’s the garden room going to be used for? Will it need lots of ventilation or just a bit of background venting?

Good point, I didn’t think of the immersion heater. We had a holiday rental where one of the guests helpfully turned up the stat on the tank as they wanted more hot water. It boiled over and made a big mess of the landing ceiling. This brought back memories.

To avoid all that nasty paperwork, like meddlesome building control and nimby planning permission perhaps?

When troubles come they come not as single spies but in battalions…. I’m guessing you’ve a vented hot water cylinder and a gas or oil boiler which indirectly heats the water? If so you should have a stat on your cylinder, which you could turn down to stop the water in the cylinder boiling, assuming no valve or control faults. However I think it also means your flow temp must be rather high.

So it’ll be a well ventilated loft. So even if you fill between the rafters with soft and fluffy stuff the risk of condensation on the warm side of your walkway I imagine will be negligible. I don’t think you need to worry about vapour permeability of your walkway, especially if it’s only going to be a couple of feet wide. So how about thin ply, then a nice slab of PIR, then the thinnest ply on top? Not as environmentally friendly but best insulation level for given headroom.

What stage are you at? Are you having to put materials up through a loft hatch?

I’m jealous now. Forgot to put it on my Santa list. 😞

No formal training or certificates required unless you total next door or tear down power lines. Then you might wish you had some. Worth checking out what your the site insurance says.

I’ll forgive you this once. Welcome to the site. There’s a host of info on here as well as a few duffers like me. Don't be shy, tell us about your plans….

I hear Nigeria is lovely at this time of year. 😕

I think @saveasteadingsaid it happens even when the bulb is removed, and I would assume the switch is in the live side, so it is highly likely to be the returning switched live to earth (I think it’s most likely to be within one cable rather than between cables). But assumptions are dangerous things when dealing with stuff put in years ago by unknown dudes.