G and J

@Gordo Is this the one you mean?

Tick to all those…. In fact the reduced natural slate costs make Solar pv really easy to cost in, and I think it’s looks a lot better. Not sure about complexity of fitting. Having been on a roof recently looking at GSE trays they look pretty simple to me, and an awful lot less faff than retro fitting bird guards. The flashing detail looked easily doable too, so I’m not sure about that as a downside either, especially given the real waterproofing of a roof is the underlay, which is unaffected. I’m sitting in a house that we built 33 years ago, with a design life of 25 years. Plus, in 30 years a few dicky solar panels will be the least of my worries as I stumble through my tenth decade, so that one won’t worry me personally, and I’m not sure, with optimisers fitted, if it’ll be much of a worry to most peeps. I did at one point concern myself with the loss of efficiency at high temperatures, but that could be reduced by counterbattening and besides, that efficiency drop will only be when there’s tons of solar anyway, so for me less of a concern. Regardless of the technicals, I think flush solar looks finished, so that’s the decider for me.

Crumbs, that’s fab attention to detail. What’s the garden room going to be used for? Will it need lots of ventilation or just a bit of background venting?

Good point, I didn’t think of the immersion heater. We had a holiday rental where one of the guests helpfully turned up the stat on the tank as they wanted more hot water. It boiled over and made a big mess of the landing ceiling. This brought back memories.

To avoid all that nasty paperwork, like meddlesome building control and nimby planning permission perhaps?

When troubles come they come not as single spies but in battalions…. I’m guessing you’ve a vented hot water cylinder and a gas or oil boiler which indirectly heats the water? If so you should have a stat on your cylinder, which you could turn down to stop the water in the cylinder boiling, assuming no valve or control faults. However I think it also means your flow temp must be rather high.

So it’ll be a well ventilated loft. So even if you fill between the rafters with soft and fluffy stuff the risk of condensation on the warm side of your walkway I imagine will be negligible. I don’t think you need to worry about vapour permeability of your walkway, especially if it’s only going to be a couple of feet wide. So how about thin ply, then a nice slab of PIR, then the thinnest ply on top? Not as environmentally friendly but best insulation level for given headroom.

What stage are you at? Are you having to put materials up through a loft hatch?

I’m jealous now. Forgot to put it on my Santa list. 😞

No formal training or certificates required unless you total next door or tear down power lines. Then you might wish you had some. Worth checking out what your the site insurance says.

I’ll forgive you this once. Welcome to the site. There’s a host of info on here as well as a few duffers like me. Don't be shy, tell us about your plans….

I hear Nigeria is lovely at this time of year. 😕

I think @saveasteadingsaid it happens even when the bulb is removed, and I would assume the switch is in the live side, so it is highly likely to be the returning switched live to earth (I think it’s most likely to be within one cable rather than between cables). But assumptions are dangerous things when dealing with stuff put in years ago by unknown dudes.

Ummm, what’s wrong with it being balanced? Less leakage either way unless I guess it’s blowing a hooley. I would look at those readings and, unless I knew their accuracy was better than +/-1%, I’d conclude that the difference is too close to call.

How I’d attack it would be set by whether it’s the RCD or MCB that’s tripping. Either way might be time for a kinetic type switch.

So it still trips even after your dangerous escapade! Which switch goes?

Thank you...that's brill....it's always good to see a finished roof for full effect.

PS, you might want to try it a few times to ensure consistency.

Ummm, I’m assuming it’s still tripping out? If so, which switch?

Looking good.....can you say what slate you've used?

And what percentage accuracy are the air volume measurements do you think?

Sorry! Bit late to this party. I could not recommend a mattock highly enough. Unbelievably effective. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0893G1PP5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We aren’t talking about that. We have to go UG and it’s costing us best part of £10k to get lecky from a pole that is 6m from our boundary. All while working under other peeps power feed that won’t be moving any time soon.

I fear squirrel incursion significantly more than I fear mouse or rat attack. Time to go sit in my garage cuddling my air rifle while trying to regulate my breathing….

It’s a it like a café loyalty card. Amass enough ‘oh I must just…..’ things and the arc welded mouse will dry up and stop it tripping. Think of it as putting the cute into electrocuted….