G and J

Not me, but G, and not finished, but have a look at our blog......demolished bungalow and timber frame build

We have just ordered a pocket door (frame and solid flush door) for a gap 1200w 2350 high from these guys Em-b.co.uk Don't think they do doorcwithout frame, didn't ask as wanted to come as a set

Forgive the interrogation but… Are your fancoils on their own zone or together with your UFH? I ask as we are installing our main bedroom fancoil as part of the single zone, but with the ability to zone it off later if needed.

We are building timber frame and had planned a render on board and circa 70% larch cladding. Because of the type of people we are, and you never know, we did some research to ensure the result was mortgageable, by either as as a equity release in years to come or by others should we decide to sell. We found several instances in mainstream lenders of more than 50% cladding being a no go, and other requiring more than 50% block. In the end we have a block skin to the ground floor and less than 50% wood cladding backed by cement board on our boundaries.

Presumably that data is for open ground. Under my slab will, I imagine, be rather different. It’s dry ground, no watercourses or the like. So what temperature should I use for my heat loss calculation for the underfloor insulation? (This particular horse has now bolted, but it’s still of interest.)

Do you use the fancoils much?

Thank you. That’s a well done for J. I did the polystyrene and the (*&#£*!!! ing) PIR in the floor. J does the walls.

Just looked back at our quotes from our local Jewsons. EPS70 was less than £47/m3 PIR (foil faced) was less than £87/m3 Both for 120mm thick 2.4m x 1.2m sheets held in stock locally at their suppliers.

Is that assuming a BnB floor with the underfloor void being the same temp as outside? One of the reasons I was pleased to go first a solid floor was that the ground under would be a more constant temperature possibly 7C.

If we could do a calculation to determine the total carbon footprint of option a - keep the gas boiler till it dies then replace with latest tech, presumably upgraded heat pump, vs option b - bin the gas boiler and replace immediately with today’s heat pump, I’d be shocked if option a cost the planet less due to the wasted resources out into the boiler. I’m dead keen on renewables. We even paid a daft amount to have gas removed from site. But it’s easy when it’s effectively a blank sheet. Sadly such an analysis would be so affected by multiple assumptions that it would be hard to believe in it. But gut feel says your wasting the planet and your own money replacing newish kit now. But who can really know?

Oh I like these new year confessions as it makes me feel less uniquely dumb. No less dumb, mind, but less alone in my folly. I think I’ve done the same damn stupid thing three times. Carefully put catching bowl under sink trap. Skilfully dismantled said trap with spilling a drop. Then thoughtlessly dumped the nasty water from the catching bowl into the above sink. Sigh.

Allow me, (in my post New Year’s Eve socialising, sleep deprived, just driven 3.5 hours and me adrenaline left the building about 5 miles short of home state), to translate into buildspeak. ”Dunno. Hard innit. Better put enough in to stop anyone moaning, which means too much. But sod it, it’s cheap enough.” :-/

Just for you. Frame insulation: Then VCL and more timber battens and an extra 60mm of mineral wool.:

Thank you. We start the new year with our chilly having a birthday at Christmas. With him and me on site the average site age has just risen to just over 70. You’ve heard of Jerry built. Well ours is geriatric built. lol

I’d strongly agreee, using a piece of wood knelt on as a guide for me really sped it up. Both polystyrene and PIR made mess, but for me only PIR was unpleasant.