ectoplasmosis

Your 40C flow design temperature will be met at the outdoor temp design temperature, i.e. depths of winter. All other times, the system will be modulating the flow temp based on the weather compensation curve. If you “always wanted no more than 35”, then you should have conveyed this to your installer and they would have sized the emitters for a 35C design temperature instead.

Would love to know more about your project!

As several have tried to suggest already: your best bet is to get the installer back to balance your system. It’s not that difficult to achieve. You don’t need to add or change anything right now. The system needs to be balanced and commissioned properly. Begin with this goal, and see how you go.

Why do you want them to be controlled separately? All this would do is decrease efficiency, and increase the risk of defrosting problems in winter due to lack of water volume. Your current setup, with open-loop and no TMV or secondary pump on the UFH, is best-practice for achieving best comfort and efficiency... providing that the emitters have been sized/specified correctly! From everything you've said, it sounds like the system is probably designed and installed well enough, but the radiator circuit has likely not been balanced/commissioned fully, causing the rooms with radiators to undershoot the target temps. I'd advise getting the installer to balance the whole system, then tweak the heat curve setting to achieve suitable flow temps which keep all rooms at their intended temps. I really wouldn't recommend installing any kind of zoning control, or thermostatic mixer on the UFH, this would only increase running costs.

What is the 'room stat'? Do you mean the Vaillant Sensocomfort controller? If yes, which weather-comp 'mode' is it set to (Active/Inactive/Expanded)? What type (K2, K3 etc) of rads do you have upstairs, and how big are they in relation to room sizes? You should have had a 'radiator schedule' document with these details as part of the install/commissioning process. You should not have to fit a TMV or auxiliary pump to your UFH circuit, providing the radiators have been properly specified. My house has UFH downstairs and rads on the upper 2x floors, no mixing valve, single flow temperature. Works perfectly, whole house stays at a constant 21.5C.

You'll be gaining a dry pipe! Don't know why it's so difficult to grasp... Just fit the pipe lagging, and stuff a load of mineral wool into the hole until it's flush with the pipe lagging, job done!

We have a GU Secury auto-deadbolt 4-point lock; no handles outside or inside, slam shut, opens via the Euro cylinder key. Works really well.

Whats this stuff like? The price looks good, but how long will the adhesive last?

Lots of data here: https://community.openenergymonitor.org/t/vaillant-maximum-output-capacity-testing/27221

We need to stop quoting/using Vaillant datasheet numbers in relation to sizing; they are peak output figures which cannot be achieved over any length of time in UK winters with frequent defrosting. There’s a reason the units are named ‘7kW’, ‘10kW’; these are roughly the sustained outputs they’re capable of under prolonged defrost conditions (providing there’s enough water volume to facilitate the defrosts).

I think you came to see our ASHP in Leyton...? Small world if so! I can't stress enough how much I'd avoid having your unit up on a roof. Even if your neighbours don't mind and you somehow avoid low-frequency reverberation through the fabric of your house, the rubber feet always harden over time, exacerbating the vibration transmission. There are loads of turnkey solutions for hiding an ASHP these days; off the shelf shrouds, vinyl wrap etc. Have a look around.

Primary Pro. UV stable and moisture resistant.

That ‘insulation’ won’t be doing very much insulating I’m afraid… huge gaps between the PIR and the inner blockwork skin. As for sealing the cavity reveals, there are numerous ‘insulated cavity closer’ products out there. Pick the one that matches your cavity depth, target price and performance.

Thanks for the tips... however, neither of these are timber-frame alu-clad. We're specifically looking for alu-clad timber with a clear-lacquered internal finish, to match our existing Velfac 200E units.

We are looking for inward-opening windows, with a 'hidden sash'/'concealed sash' design, similar to 'Cortizo COR 70 Hidden Sash' (pic attached), where the opening sash does not overlap the fixed frame at all. I can't seem to find any with this design which are alu-clad timber framed, only PVC/aluminium. Is there anything out there which suits this spec? Failing that, which alu-clad inward-opening windows have the slimmest opening sash overlap out there?

We have a Miele DA2578, bought brand new on eBay for £250. It’s very quiet, A-rated grease filtering, and can be linked wirelessly to a Miele hob for automatic start/stop/speed adjustment. The Miele UK outlet is a PDF file direct from their website, updated weekly.

Yeah, neither of those have very good specs at all. I’ve never experienced condensation dripping from my extractor hood, above an 80cm 5-ring induction hob, even with a few pots on the boil at the same time. Just get a Miele via their discount outlet list.

We just did this to a Victorian front door on our ~1890 house. - Replaced glazing with laminated double glazed units, 24mm warm edge spacer, argon filled. Sealed properly. - Replaced the timber door frame with a replica hardwood frame, with Schlegel AQ21 seal channels routed in along all three frame edges; AQ21 seals fitted around all 4x latch keeps. - Fitted a routed-in Norseal NOR810 automatic drop-down seal along the bottom edge of the door We also fitted a GU Secury multi-point auto-latch lock system, which uses a single Euro cylinder so no keyholes to let air in.

I've just switched to Tomato Lifestyle, coming from Octopus Tracker. Switchover should be happening today... ASHP, but no batteries/PV/EV. Looking to load-shift the dishwasher, washer-dryer, and boost the ASHP set point during the 1am-6am 5p/kWh period.

As mentioned, having two boilers for your kind of heating system is madness. Ditch your 'installers'.

Except they won't be running anywhere near capacity, except for during a few of the coldest days of the year. Our 7kW Vaillant ASHP is practically inaudible day to day; the only way of knowing whether it's running or not is to feel for the airflow. It's MUCH quieter than the neighbours' gas combi boilers.

If you get the wireless version, then you can stick that anywhere you like, even move it around depending on how you use the house.

“Thermost.” would be equivalent to Expanded I would have thought. You would need to have the VRC700 in a habitable space however; the temp sensor wouldn’t be doing much stuck in a utility cupboard.

Done

You have access to the exact same settings on your VRC700 already: “Room Temp Mod”.