Jump to content

FuerteStu

Members
  • Posts

    308
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • Location
    Suffolk

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

FuerteStu's Achievements

Regular Member

Regular Member (4/5)

149

Reputation

  1. The metal fixings are for plasterboard.. They are designed to grip in a minimum of 9mm, usually 12mm thick gypsum wall. Not a 3mm widen fibre board off a door. The fixings from B&Q state that they are designed for exactly that purpose, I strongly suggest if you're going to use a fixing in the door, to use those.
  2. The first are designed for plasterboard and would not be effective in such a thin skinned door. The second ones from B&q are designed to be used in a hollow door. Use those.
  3. I don't have any pictures, sorry. It was my old house. A thicker screw with thicker thread will 'bite' Better in the thin material if the door, just be careful not to over tighten. The screw is there to clamp the plinth until the glue goes off. With all glues, most of the strength is in the way it's fixed. Two surfaces rested against each other will fail. If they're clamped, the bond is stronger.
  4. On the 3 kids bedroom doors on the old house I fitted a nice plinth on the back of the door. 4"x 18" with no nails and a couple of thick thread wood screws to pull it tight until the glue set. On that plinth I fitted the hooks. Never had any issues at all over the years and it held lots of coats, dressing gowns, and school bags.
  5. Probably got a sticker on one end that says [plug in this end first] to make it safe...
  6. Go around the outside and look for cracks or replaced mortar. Check the corners of window frames inside and out. Feel for drafts around door and window frames. If there are no signs of issues, then it just just be the house was built by someone drunk. Drink, and you'll forget about the wonky house.
  7. I bought an evolution for my loft conversion, far better than I thought it would be for the price. Just make sure you set it up and test it for the 45s and 90s. Don't assume it will be perfect out of the box, regardless of the brand
  8. My local skip company virtually pay you for Rubble/concrete. Last 4 yard I filled 3/4 with concrete roof tiles and topped up with demolished concrete block wall cost me £35 Didn't seem to have any issues picking it up.
  9. Surprised you needed his, considering you are your only biggest one...
  10. I think this area is like most specialities in local authorities. Efficiency equals redundancy, inefficiency means a job for life. Time for another meeting about planning the next meeting.
  11. I've never worked with SIPS but I can imagine there are all the variables of timber frame. But with all the mistakes and snags already covered up. As with all construction, 90% of the finish product is from the quality of the tradesman involved. It's not something you can afford to wait and find out how good they are, you need to see their work beforehand, and speak to their previous clients
  12. Side note, I've always thought these should be fitted outside McDonald's, would save the NHS a fortune.
  13. Absolutely despise these patresses. Crumbly sharp cable entry points, the slightest knock and they crack.. Even mounting on an uneven surface and tightening the screws can cause them to implode!
  14. If they are round knockouts, you could use a stuffing gland for cable entry. Far cleaner looking, and at least helps the ip rating
  15. The major issue I've seen with towers for roof access, is the climbing out and in. I've seen people kick them over as they climb out. Then you're stranded, if you're lucky. Dangling if you're not. Use the outriggers. Build higher, step off. (but once again these are temporary working platforms, not access.. ARSE COVERED)
×
×
  • Create New...