FuerteStu

I bullseyed a copper pipe that was less that 5mm deep in the floor screed while fixing a footplate to close up a doorway after joining up shower/toilet separates. Managed to do it at 9pm one night, all hell broke loose, including the stopcock handle breaking off when I tried to isolate. One thing with renovations, if it can go wrong, it usually will at the worst time possible!

I've seen plastic conduit lengths and potatoes used to make a gazebo in a back garden party once. Was actually incredibly effective

Very possible! Just concerned about the amount of thread on the 1.75" side..

Got an 1.5" basin sink waste into 1.75" trap. Was thinking such a simple adapter would be easy to find, but alas I'm only finding the wrong sizes, or reverse threads (female to male instead of male to female etc) I've already got 1.75"pipe and AAV coming up under the sink.. Would it just be better to get another trap and reduce it there? Or can anyone find something like the macalpine T16 that's actually the right size?

How much would the same surface area of brickwork weigh? .... At some point a structural engineer would have signed off if the designs? No?

With old (and possibly rusty) Allen key grub screws, a flat head screwdriver about the same size and a few gentle taps with a hammer force it in so it can be undone

I always remember the saying of an old chippy I used to work with.. "jobs only as good as your pencil is sharp" The more precise the mark, the better the finish.

Governments usually start 400+ consultations a year, 300+ bills and less than 50 acts end up getting past. This is yet another case of "i'll believe it when I see it" because even if it scrapes through, the other chamber would water it down so they could build bigger more swimming pools but we can't add an inch onto our sheds.

It's a bit like lego, except none of it is compatible, the instructions are in Chinese, it keeps costing you money even when youre not building, and when you finish you'll spend your time staring at pieces of it.

Wall template?

Thanks, I did template having the 2nd step similar to the first but it just didn't look right from the sides. Felt better with it being set back and square.

I built mine from ply myself. And routed the nosing. Filled and sanded out looks and feels like solid wood but is silent. Was quoted a silly price for it, so did it myself and I'm glad I did.

I had an awkward spot to do this and used earth sleeving (16mm cable size) over the nozzle. Worked surprisingly well. Releasing the foam slowly and steadily as i pulled it out.

I'd always go for metal boxes on noggin rather than dry lining boxes. I think they are too flimsy personally. If you want a good finish, I'd highly recommend socket and switch beads before skimming. They make a fantastic finish.

Could you explain what you mean by 'treated the corroded cables'? Have you double checked the terminations in the socket you replaced? They are not always in the same places for different brands. The next step would be to split the circuit at other sockets (isolating different legs of the cables) and see if it holds.