FuerteStu

Must have been a Friday afternoon job...

Just a thought.. But surely at some point it goes into a standard sized pipe. Could you not try and joint to that rather than bodge two standard fittings into each other?

Not sure if that drip would stop the whole system from working. But that isolator valve in closed position might. Can we see the whole setup? Maybe a drawing of what is where?

All I know is, if you hear a clicking sound and see a triangle of laser pointer dots... Running won't do you any good.

Feedback is irrelevant if it falls on deaf ears. Both the planning officer and myself talked to him about the refused application and he still came back with absurd designs rather than listening...

Over a years delay due to his oversight and refusal to listen to the planning officer. When planning said no the first time, (due to his dormer flat roof design being higher than the ridge) he came back with a ludicrous design that was close to a Dutch barn roof that was also refused, he then drew designs for a standard pitched roof on top of the loft conversion so the end had two gables.. I refused to let him submit those to planning and gave him my interpretation of external after a conversation with planning officer. Which was finally accepted. It was then we discovered just how impractical his original drawings were, and the ones thereafter. There were many issues. The whole project was nearly abandoned. Finally found a good SE and a Posi-joists company who managed to make it work. But by then the post-covid building material costs had doubled.

He'd spanned 6.5m with 225x45 joists for upstairs, with a "possible steel needed" in the middle, but his drawing showed the steel on an internal wall that wasn't structural.

I've fitted two outside taps this summer, front and back. Brass ones with no exposed pipework, just the brass head. I've never bothered with outside tap draindowns before. This place had one already but it will be dead soon.. And my previous two houses had them. I never drained them down either. Have I been lucky where I am (East Anglia), or are you all being extra careful?

If they are in good condition.. Sell them, Buyer collect. It's not worth the sleepless nights using something you know isn't good enough.

I engaged an architect with my renovation. I seriously regretted it in every way. The drawings I gave him from my own design were virtually the same as the ones that were finally approved by planning. After his three stages and ignoring what planning recommended. (his structural engineer quoted 9k for drawings) He threatened additional fees if I no longer used him, I engaged a separate structural engineer through a family friend who looked at the drawings and said they were impossible to construct. He recommended someone else he knew to adapt my drawings. *IN MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE* And that of many others, most architects are nothing more than money grabbing conceptual designers.. Artistic types who have very little connection or sympathy to construction or planning. If you get a gut feeling your architect is wrong.. Get a second opinion.

The metal fixings are for plasterboard.. They are designed to grip in a minimum of 9mm, usually 12mm thick gypsum wall. Not a 3mm widen fibre board off a door. The fixings from B&Q state that they are designed for exactly that purpose, I strongly suggest if you're going to use a fixing in the door, to use those.

The first are designed for plasterboard and would not be effective in such a thin skinned door. The second ones from B&q are designed to be used in a hollow door. Use those.

I don't have any pictures, sorry. It was my old house. A thicker screw with thicker thread will 'bite' Better in the thin material if the door, just be careful not to over tighten. The screw is there to clamp the plinth until the glue goes off. With all glues, most of the strength is in the way it's fixed. Two surfaces rested against each other will fail. If they're clamped, the bond is stronger.

On the 3 kids bedroom doors on the old house I fitted a nice plinth on the back of the door. 4"x 18" with no nails and a couple of thick thread wood screws to pull it tight until the glue set. On that plinth I fitted the hooks. Never had any issues at all over the years and it held lots of coats, dressing gowns, and school bags.

Probably got a sticker on one end that says [plug in this end first] to make it safe...