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AartWessels

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  1. AartWessels
    Overall in life. It's best to build 3 times. The first build is for your enemy. The second for a friend. The third is your forever home. I'm starting my third, and when I look back, I'm not far off. When looking forward, I'm happy it's the last. I've lived in both houses with lots of joy, so don't worry about that 😁
  2. AartWessels
    Hmm, you should be seeing a field to set the COP value when selecting heat pump as heating source. It takes that same value for all meteorological conditions though. Haven't yet figured out if there's a standard formula to apply to COP based on outdoor temperature and water temperature.
  3. AartWessels
    What type of heating and cost per unit did you enter? Which location roughly?
  4. AartWessels
    I've been going through them as well, and di think they are correct actually. However, I should probably improve the user experience. Step 1: verify the baseline inputs Step 2: define the areas of your house with their respective materials or u values. Step 3 : pick your heating source and cost per unit Step 4 : select your location for accuracy in in energy needs and cost. Did you go through all 4 steps?
  5. AartWessels
    That's interesting. As well as your UFH? Do you have any pictures you'd be willing to share?
  6. AartWessels
    Ohh, that's interesting, but I won't hijack this topic, thanks for the feedback 🙂
  7. AartWessels
    Well, that's basically what I mean, my apologies, English is not my first language. I was curious about the way is has been sealed.
  8. AartWessels
    Just out of curiosity, how did you 'sleeve' any of the ducting through the insulation?
  9. AartWessels
    I've moved the web app to https://heatloss.online/ That should take care of the warning message I hope?
  10. AartWessels
    Hmm probably because I didn't add a certificate. Thanks for letting me know, will add one.
  11. AartWessels
    Something I haven't mentioned and is maybe not obvious, is that you'll have to drag the pin to the right location. It uses the 20 year temperatures in the location for the calculations, and NE Scotland might be a bit different from where you are? Anyway, I'll look into it, because there may very well be flaws in some formulas. However, the impact of the COP should normally be visible in the graph immediately when you change the value.
  12. AartWessels
    @IanR Very helpful, thank you. Once I find a bit of time, I'll try to improve some of those 🙂 It does take the COP into account, but I'll recheck the calculations. It just assumes heating to compensate the heat loss, to ensure the expected temperature. What it doesn't take into account in for example solar gains, etc.
  13. AartWessels
    Love the spreadsheet! Love it so much, that it inspired me to try and build something similar in an interactive web app. Still early days in development, and definitely not finished, but feel free to play around, and see if it helps you. http://pdmove-001-site2.jtempurl.com/
  14. AartWessels
    We've only.moved to Scotland from the continent 2 years ago. Our worst power cut until now was 26 hours. Apart from a paraffin heater, we have no alternative source of heat in the current house. For the new build, we'll have battery backup, as well as a wood burning stove. As for stoves: There is a legal right to cut and burn peat for heating your house for crofters, as part of the crofting act. So in the short term, there will be no legal ban on stoves. At least not in the crofting counties.
  15. AartWessels
    True. However, I'm sure you've experienced this as well, over winter we can easily get power cuts lasting more than 24 hours. Also, there is no gas here at all. So I think the u-turn is great for this un-nuanced piece of legislation.
  16. AartWessels
    I agree that if you don't heat upstairs, the mvhr and the thermal mass heated will not compensate for the heat loss. And indeed, a lower ufh power upstairs will keep the rooms slightly cooler than the living area. Differentiating the temperature in different rooms on the same thermal mass seems a bit unlikely, unless there is a heat loss issue.
  17. AartWessels
    Which will happen in an airtight house with mvhr anyway.
  18. AartWessels
    Truth be told, more water enters Morayshire through the Spey than by rain. Although this year seems to have significantly more rain than others. So back on topic,blowy north, you.mean above Inverness then? Just sold some land near John o Groats which we originally would be building on. Before our plans changed and we moved to the heart of whisky country.
  19. AartWessels
    That's our nearest village. Couple if minutes from where we'll be building. However, shouldn't hijack this topic 😁
  20. AartWessels
    Brilliant, good luck. About to start our own journey in the boozy Speyside area.
  21. AartWessels
    I've built a shed slightly bigger on 6 concrete piers of 400mm high. Dug them in, and put 2 4x4 beams in parallel on top of them. Then, built the floor frame on top of these beams. It gives some ventilation underneath to allow things to dry. I've built a large decking in more or less the same way. Saved me from hammering in hundreds of stakes 😂
  22. AartWessels
    I wasn't saying your duct length is excessive by the way, as that's almost impossible to have an opinion about. It's just a fact that any length of ducting has a significant impact on the performance of a fan. I have a Samsung induction hob with extractor fan in storage for ouw new kitchen and I'm quite curious as well to see how it performs. My expectations are honestly not very high. We used to have a massive overhead extractor in our previous kitchen, and even that would have issues catching all the steam of a 110cm hob. I always blamed that on the impact of the closed panel in the center of it, so it would only extract round the edges. Looks pretty, but such a waste of power 😂
  23. AartWessels
    Regardless of the duct size, with such a long duct with 2 angles of 90 degrees, it will not perform as well as when you disconnect the duct. For the best performance you'd probably have to set it up for recirculation, so blow it out from under the kitchen cabinet. That's assuming it can be set up that way. Pulls a lot less cold air into the house in winter as well that way.
  24. AartWessels
    That's correct. It is a very common problem with led lights, regardless of quality of wiring, switches and light fixtures.
  25. AartWessels
    Don't we generally apply vented cavities between Sips and cladding? We did on our last built anyway. Also, the wrapping of the Sips is normally done in factory before the windows are places I think? I'm a bit puzzled by the pictures in the article tbh
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