Super_Paulie

Nick, thanks a bunch. Sorry for calling you out, but you seem to be the guru on here and its to your credit, cant thank you enough for the time. I plan on installing the 2-ports in the void/cupboard within the old chimney breast, the existing pipes run up to the boiler on the side of the breast. Would you agree to the (simplified for clarity) diagram attached? 2 full-bore butterflies (levers?) just below the ports for the possible exchanges of the valves? This forum and people like yourself have really spurred me on in what is my first big renovation. (UFH and inevitable short-cycling still to come...)

hi guys, is there any reason why i cant do the following: Both 2 port valves side by side on the first floor. It would streamline my plumbing to do so as my manifold area is getting quite bogged down with things, so looking at any positive/negatives for that. I can have a valve down at the manifold if i really to, so i guess its either or. My preference is both up there to keep them together. Any reason i shouldn't do this, @Nickfromwales, you are the fountain of knowledge on here so i take what you say as gospel, but im open to any advice from all you fine gentlemen/women/others. Size is not to scale, obviously i need to run the cables to the wiring center and UFH is for the entire ground floor also.

Yeah designed by a few companies but most came back the same. No one mentioned short cycling but I guess they probably wouldn't... I'll get my lines in and then get back to the research, cheers John.

Sorry, loop. 4 (or 5, I forget) loops split between 3 thermostats. It's all been designed, I don't know the ins and outs at the moment as I don't have the documents handy. Any thoughts on the reverse circulation, that's where I'm at today. Cheers

4 zones, around 90m each is currently designed so hopefully that is ok for the combi. Just the reverse circulation I was hoping someone could clarify for me. Cheers for the response John 👍

Gentlemen. Got a few days to hammer out some plumbing, so I'm going to lay the flow and returns for my ufh. For context, combi is in the loft, ufh (manifold, pump, wiring center etc) is ground floor. 2 port valves can live in the void/cupboard within the defunct chimney breast just below the boiler on the first floor. So I've designed a dedicated flow and return, but my question is at what point can I join the return to the primary heating return? Does it have to be higher than the last radiator so as to avoid return circulation? If so, how high is high enough, is it physically above the last radiator or can it come from the same/last tee. Cheers gents. Pictures a bit of a bodge, best I can do on my phone!

its maybe 3m from the joint to the boiler, boiler just above loft floor level so the pipe run up the side of the chimney breast in the copper. So a 22-15-15 would surfice, be pretty easy to be fair as i already have all my copper in until the new joint so i can just plug into it. Alteratively i could break into the copper higher up and convert from 22 to 15 there, but not sure it would make much of a difference?

Just about to put this into action @Nickfromwales, just a thought, which joint is preferable out of the 2 extremely crudely drawn images? Basically 2 different tees, or are both much a muchness? cheers!

Yeah I was debating it back and forth, everyone was busy today it seemed so I just went ahead and did what I thought best as I needed it done. The bend on the layflat comes in pretty steep so I wasn't 100% on the compression fitting to plastic. Read somewhere that @Nickfromwales suggests compression on copper stubbies, so went with that. Either way, totally suitable I'd imagine.

Well looks like everyone is out enjoying the sun, so for info I went with a joint under the floor. It'll be fine, what can ya do eh.

Sorry, no not mains. That's happily buried in the garden 👍. It was domestic water lines I was on about, under my joists.

Thanks gents. The job is done. Combination of band and clips got me from A-B. The house was all just slung on the dirt originally, didn't think it was a classy way of doing business.

Question for a Sunday morning! I need to a DCV here, I can't access it at the other end as it's a wall chase to an external tap. Question is, should I just sack off the compression-to-plastic joint and have a copper stubby from below the DCV and then a 90° elbow at the bottom of this to connect back to my plastic? Downside is that the elbow would be below floor level... Cheers gents.

Makes sense. But this is in my extension and it's a concrete subfloor, void then joists. I've enough room to get my impact in so I'll clip to the underside, seems fair.

Good man. When you say cable everything, what do you mean exactly? I could all use round band instead of clips, need to see how much room I have to swing a hammer.

Best practice, just lay water pipes on the soil from A-B or clip them to the underside of the joists? Seems a lot of effort for long runs...

I'm in a similar situation, going to chase a wall this weekend. It does mean a transition from plastic to copper under the floor which I'm not keen on and I've decided to have my check valve at the manifold end instead of buried in a wall. I was planning on a flat metal bar to cover the chase incase I drill into it in the future. Which I will when I forget its there. I'm aware that's no help at all to you, but just to say that we are both gunna be chasing block, so good luck to ya.

thanks for the info chaps. But like i said, i have an isolator already, the tap is connected directly to the manifold which has isolation at that point. Was just looking for a relatively nice solution so i dont have to go into a cupboard every day to turn it. Padlock and eye bolt is what i am going for. I see, cheers.

Yeah I've seen those, but I've already got the taps. Wanted to go Pegler for the quality based on reviews of them.

Hey Google, activate outside taps. Like Connor I would be coming directly from the manifold and I'm adding the DCV there. I mean I guess I could add an isolator just on the inside of the wall but that would be isolation at the manifold and a valve, seems a bit much. But on the other hand I don't really want to go to the manifold each time to turn this off... An eyelet and a padlock is winning so far I think.

Well I'll put that in the maybe pile. Any other suggestions I'll take on board, might have to get creative on this one.

Might be weird if we are both doing it though.

Might be a good shout, like a lockable key cabinet you see in offices. I'll look into that now. Obviously it's not a huge concern, 99% unlikely anyone would ever turn it on as a jape, but if the possibility is there then I'd like to reduce that to 100% unlikely. Maybe even something like an eye bracket and a "close to the handle" padlock would do it.

Tried your last suggestion, if anything that made the neighbours want to use the hot tap to wash their eyes out.

Worried about going on holiday for a fortnight and coming back to a hot tap that's been running for 14 days, sure! The tap is street side, so public facing, although it's a decent area I guess it's not out of the question to occur.