kandgmitchell

Mmmm, despite this being a UU I think I would push back a little perhaps giving Warrington's UU as an example and pointing out whilst you intend to live in the self-build, those situations in LnP's post could happen and where would you be then? Well stuck in the self -build obvously......

Sounds like a good pragmatic solution - well done.

As far as building regulations go if the work was done years ago then there be no action from the local authority. It's hard to know why the conversion didn't get approval at the time. Did it not comply and the owner knew it didn't or did they not realise approval was required? In what way doesn't the work comply? Is it structurally sound or are the fire precautions inadequate? If you are going to rent the property out your obligations as a landlord will be different to those to yourself as the owner/occupier so things like fire precautions could be an issue. If the conversion was done "decades ago" then I would have thought any structural issues would have shown themselves.

Sadly this is the leverage that some planning authorities use to get their own way even if it is a bit doubtful legally......

Bit confused with this last post. "Southern Water" suggests the plot is in England (stating the country on Bldg Reg queries would be useful as requirements differ between them) but you mention "no recommendation at panel". So is this a planning or building regulation objection?

The s106 will be dealt with by the Council's legal department and the planners will be their "clients". Have you known lawyers to do anything quickly? I'd sort out the BNG and avoid the s106 altogether.

Why bother with an application to get the condition removed (they will not do it informally) when you seem confident that you can comply? If, and it's a big if, anyone ever queries it then be prepared to peg it out again to demonstrate compliance.

Well D has to be the easiest to achieve with the flat roof covering taken up under the existing tiles and a simple abutment flashing against the house (plus cavity tray if applicable). A probably the worst as it's a stepped flashing against the house and a central gutter to form amd maintain. B and C are variations of the same thing with a secret gutter against the house. Myself I've always thought getting the rainwater off over the edge of the building straight away is the best option rather than collect it and rely on transporting it across the building. Looks wise I'd say B and C but for ease go A.

Have you considered bird spikes? They tend to be slightly longer and can't be easy to climb over, Cut to length and add to top of posts as well.

Ah, there's always full height balustrading at the end of the access gangways as there is no fixed seating at this location.

If the balustrade is no further than 530mm from fixed seating then the minimum height is 800mm in assembly buildings. Presumably it's that height for the very reason that sitting persons would have to look through the normal 1100mm height balustrade.

We're going through our claim at the moment. We have just had their response and they raised a list of 15 invoices to be copied to them, they just happen to be the highest vat invoices in size order downwards. They also want to see proof of payment for any invoice we listed that wasn't in our name ( so all the B&Q ones basically). Lot of scanning to do......

Normally any uplift would only kick in if you did anything above and beyond the DPP which came with the land. If you haven't done this then there shouldn't be anything to worry about (subject to seeing the actual wording).

Both these will almost certainly need to be presented by a fire consultant to BC

You want the highway terrier - this lists the classification of the roads maintained by Wiltshire County Council.... https://www.wiltshire.gov.uk/media/8218/adopted-roads-january-2022/pdf/adopted_roads_january_2022.pdf

I'd agree there! Can't enclose it entirely though as any propane leak from an appliance ends up down there via the small grids in the floor under them. Transporting these things are a specialist job and we could only find those dealers who sold statics were set up for the job so had to buy from one of them. Glad we did it as it gave us more investment in the plot that was to be our home, we met the neighbours, started social contacts and could keep an eye on the work. Would never, ever, do it again though!

The consultant is correct - see diagram D6 in the Approved Document B. The highest floor level is measured from the lowest ground level up to that floor. The issue would be that escape for those rooms facing the higher ground level (so effectively traditional two storey) could be via escape windows. However, those rooms on the three storey side can't use that approach so a protected route is needed. You may be able to design a situation where the rooms on the three storey side can get access to the two storey side by perhaps closing off the upper storey with a fire door. That way persons can pass through the upper landing free of any fire and smoke coming up from below. These days a lot of BC bodies would expect to see this presented by a fire consultant. A sign of the times I'm afraid.

Must admit, the open web joists do make life easier. Used them for the first floor in a large two two storey extension at the last house. Apart from being lighter to work with, it's so much easier to run pipes and wires through them. The suppliers provide the supporting calcs so you don't have to bother, for, as you mention your span is off the end of the AD Part A tables.

It's normal practice to span the shortest distance and space at 400mm centres so that plasterboard for the ceiling and boarding for the floor works better. Spacing at 600mm centres means you need thicker plasterboard and floor boarding to avoid deflection. Spacing at 300mm centres just uses more material. The earlier versions of the Building Regulation Approved Document for Part A - Structure used to have very useful load/span tables for timber joists, rafters and purlins which could be used quickly to determine a joist size. You probably can find the archive versions on line. They stopped providing them as it favoured one material over others which became much wider available.

Well you'll be subject to continuing control under the Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order for the common parts. You could try asking the local fire authority for fire safety advice. If I recall correctly Velux make a AOV rooflight with linked detectors as a kit based on their normal range if one is needed.

That's the trouble with auctions ... you get all het up, do as much homework as you can and then on the day the lot just runs off like mad going way over what you thought was sensible. Still you never know - I bought one that had been put back into an auction after the buyer at the previous sale simply disappeared after the lot was sold and was never seen again. Rather than pursue them to complete, the owners put it back in. Mind you it went for another £10K over the last hammer price so it was probably the best thing for them.

Had a quick look at Southern Water's requirements and build overs are limited to sewers 225mm dia or less. If it's more then it's a diversion I'm afraid. Those drainage details provided by the seller are deliberately vague - enough to cover themselves - "look we told you about them" but not eneough to make a proper decision. It'll be a gamble............ good luck!

Depends where this is - Thames Water for instance will not agree a build over for new dwellings, only extensions.

You certainly can still get conditional approvals but the legislation says : the relevant authority may— (a)reject the application; or (b)subject to paragraph (4), grant the application for building control approval subject to either or both of the requirements set out in paragraph (3). I emphasise the "may" because it gives the authority the choice, the applicant can request a conditional approval but I think that "may" still gives the authority the option to simply reject if it wants to.

Presumably you have planning permission and building regs for what is a substantial renovation and extension to an existing dwelling. Knock it all down and you will will now need planning approval and building regulations for a new dwelling. Depending on the planning status of the land viz a vis the local plan, getting a new dwelling approval may not be as simple and of course you'll have the delights of complying with all the building regulation requirements for a new dwelling which are more extensive than those for extensions.