kandgmitchell

A agree Part B isn't always the clearest. However, Diagram 2.1b refers to escape from dwellinghouses with a storey no higher than 4.5m from ground level. The dimension arrows are confusing as they seem to suggest a window cill but that is not the case as other diagrams use the same form of measurement when physical escape from windows is not relevant (eg cavity barriers). It must refer to the floor height. Diagram D6 in Appendix D measures storey height from the upper surface of the floor to external ground level. This reinforces the assumption that "storey height" is measured from floor level not window or ceiling level. The issue for the OP is that the height of the first floor storey is more than 4.5m because storey height is measured to the lowest ground level and so having a storey over 4.5m high triggers the requirement shown in Diagram 2.1c. I would argue therefore any upper floor habitable room requires a protected escape route and building control are correct. It's a pity this wasn't determined at plans stage. Now having started from that position, it's sensible to look at the actual situation. If you have rooms where the ground outside any escape window is less than 4.5m from floor level then realistically they are no worse off than a "normal" two storey house. Others that rely on a decking to reduce that height to 4.5m are different. I think that depends on the decking. If it's substantial structural floor that is perhaps partially supported by the house well that's one thing. If it's a skimpy timber patio deck then that's another. The OP is going to have to convince BC that the deck is a permanent structure that would just as improbable to remove as digging out the ground outside the compliant windows at a later date would be.

Just for reference the A1 rating is a reflection of the spread of flame characteristic of the aluminium i.e it doesn't promote flame spread across it's surface nor create droplets. It would not confirm that material's ability to resist fire for a set period when incorporated in a specific construction. Glad you got a straightforward solution agreed

So how far can you get away from the house to start with if the underground pipe went through the flower bed? That will determine if a soakaway is even practicable. Then how large is the roof area that the downpipe drains. Arguably that ought to be the additional area as you are not meant to make an existing non-compliant situation any worse than it is. Presumably the original pipe didn't run to a soakaway so the extension is what is causing the problem.

So more of a semi then? Really interesting website. We went Danwood so we have a German style house and can see our style in some of the versions on show (although by other manufacturers, neither Danwoods are typical of their UK range). You are right about "what you don't like" and I must say there is quite a bit of that in there! Down to what we see as "normal" for houses over here probably.

Maisonettes? Semi's? Flats?

Given the increase in extreme weather we seem to be getting now, a small amount on extra strapping would be a good investment, but I agree it's not easy to do with air tightness requirements as they are.

More like this sort of thing with the short bit nailed to the stud in the gable at mid-point in gable and the long section nailed to the adjacent rafters and a noggin set between them (overall length of strap is 1 or 1.2m) to suit. I guess that the strap will be to the underside of the rafter/noggin rather than the top as shown, since the stud will have stopped short of the top edge of the rafter.

Front downpipes tend to be a pain as often there's insufficient depth of garden to get a soakaway far enough from the building. I am anti putting any more rainwater through an existing combined sewer but sometimes there simply isn't another solution. However, before that, as mentioned above can't you utilise the soft dig through the flower bed to a traditional soakaway or agree a filtration solution using perforated pipe within that bed if the area of roof isn't too big?

Baltic? you must be in the first balmy part of caravan life, early days, wait until it gets Yellowknife like (minus 32 tonight...)

Going back to the OP's question. Can you clarify, when referring to a downpipe going to a flower bed - is that an existing one or the one off the new extension? Not sure why you would need to dig up a driveway if there is access to a soft area such as a flowerbed.

Go full plans, at present the rear extension is greater than 3.0m deep and more than one storey as well as being a side extension to the existing rear single storey part and is more than half the width of the original house. I'd rather not risk building that without a certificate of lawfulness to confirm it's PD and if you're doing that (and I think you would fail) you might as well go for full planning.

Firstly if you haven't got the bathroom fittings for those "nice to have" bits consider buying them up front so you can reclaim the vat on them. I believe (and I stand to be corrected) you can only make one vat claim. We bought as much of the materials for the garage as we could afford so we could put the vat paid into the claim. As to your BCO's attitude, you're going to have to enquire. Some may want to see those sanitary fittings installed to ensure the whole system is airtight. Others may be flexible, local authorities tend to be more relaxed about this sort of thing than private but you won't know unless you ask....

One point - our entire house was spray painted white by danwood's guys. The finish was great but it has a specific texture. I recently had to touch up a scuffed area in the stairway (using their left over paint) but the brush/roller finish just doesn't match and you can see the join.....

My money is on: First floor joists spanning side to side i.e from coving to coving in the second picture A horizontal beam/lintel spanning from one pier up the side of the window to the other pier on the other side of the window. The upper floor front masonry built off that beam/lintel. The bay roof built as a frame and bolted to that facade masonry The solid bit above the window internally is framed out and clad in plasterboard to form the downstand.

For what it's worth we found Wiser quite useless. The central hub couldn't communicate with the "smart" thermostatic valves and "smart" plugs unless these were sited in the next room. It was nice idea being able to start the heating when on the way back from holiday say but beyond that it was hopeless. We ended up stripping it all out and selling the parts on ebay, going back to a simple time controller etc.

Well one has to admire some Build Hubbers aspirations! We just stuck to two floors and a bit of timber cladding......... Interesting question though. One has to ask are the plants "materials" for the purpose of the regulations or "decoration" if they aren't actually incorporated into the structure of the building. That could branch out in all directions and sprout lots of discussion......

Sorry but this just made me smile.....

and probably in the forum as it's under Ventilation.......

I'd always use my PD rights wherever possible - after all they are your "rights" to develop your own property without having to apply for specific planning permission from your local authority.

So you filled in the inevitable application form and no doubt paid a fee to the Council (who are responsible for road naming and numbering). If the address is still not appearing then I'd go back to the Council and ask why...... We found RM were quite quick but it took a while for some suppliers to have the house name turn up on their auto address filler in thing. I presume they pay to have it updated and some update more often than others.

And I would agree - if there is no new circuit then there is no need for notification just compliance with the BS. I find that since you rarely get the entire circumstances explained in a post, it's more appropriate just to clarify the legislation and then let the poster decide if it applies to them or not.

Well the regulations are quite clear. An electrical installation in a dwelling should comply with BS 7671 : 2008 (plus amendments). Said installation becomes notifiable to BC as follows: 12.—(6A) A person intending to carry out building work in relation to which Part P of Schedule 1 imposes a requirement is required to give a building notice or deposit full plans where the work consists of— (a) the installation of a new circuit; (b) the replacement of a consumer unit; or (c) any addition or alteration to existing circuits in a special location. —(9) In this regulation “special location” means— (a) within a room containing a bath or shower, the space surrounding a bath tap or shower head, where the space extends— (i) vertically from the finished floor level to— (aa) a height of 2.25 metres; or (bb) the position of the shower head where it is attached to a wall or ceiling at a point higher than 2.25 metres from that level; and (ii) horizontally— (aa) where there is a bath tub or shower tray, from the edge of the bath tub or shower tray to a distance of 0.6 metres; or (bb) where there is no bath tub or shower tray, from the centre point of the shower head where it is attached to the wall or ceiling to a distance of 1.2 metres; or (b) a room containing a swimming pool or sauna heater. So presumably if this is a new circuit then it's notifiable as even extra low voltage installations are covered (<50V ac or 120V dc).

Well I found this with a single search. It seems to be the same logo but is only suitable for pedestrians and cyclists.... https://www.bes.co.uk/concrete-cover-and-polypropylene-frame-13425/

In all cases the system was up and running normally, the last two events were 27th October and 18th November so about 3 weeks apart, the first was back in the summer. Whatever is releasing the pressure must re-set itself as you can top up and get everything working again. Currently working normally since the 18th. No obvious water anywhere. It doesn't take much filling from the loop to get the pressure back up. I've got a horrible feeling this is going to be like one of those odd noises in a car that the mechanic can never find.....

Hi, I've a Vaillant Arotherm heat pump system that's been in and working for about 18 months. During that time we have experienced 3 cases of total loss of pressure in the system. The last was whilst we were away abroad last week and I had to talk my daughter through topping up the system using the filling loop, and re-setting the pump- isn't WhatsApp wonderful! There is no water in the tundish and the loss is sudden not a gradual creep. This suggests there isn't a leak in a loop because one would expect the pressure to degrade over time. It's almost as if the system is initiating an irregular process that involves using a particular valve or suchlike which when used, dumps the pressure and causes the system to shut down. I am about to start the process of taking this up with the installer but thought I would put the problem out there so I can approach them with a bit more knowledge.