Digmixfill

Staffordshire. I have this thread set to notify me of replies and my settings say immediate notification but I'm not seeing any email notifications. (No obvious delivery failures in my email server log either). Are newbies excluded from notifications?

No argument from me there. I've found beads that have a marginally better U value than the batts i'd decided on, so that's a plus. I'm trying to do everything myself, so labour costs tend not to factor in. Batts are currently going to cost me 7.55/m2 for 100mm roughly £81/m3. We had a structural engineer take a look at everything before we started. The only works required was underpinning. Whilst doing things today i noticed one corner where the wonk was obvious to the naked eye. Pictures attached.

Is the blown bead DIYable? I've had a quick look around but i've only come across "professional" install. I had the notion that EVERYTHING would be perfect and square before I started. The century old building has seen that idea off.

I thank you

I fixed that for you ?

Automated roller shutter doors next?

I've been a little preoccupied. The grinding out and pointing inside to make everything sound took forever. :( Is there a medal or a trophy to be had for my record? :) Everyone's comments on cooling is exactly the thing i'm hoping for when this build is finished. The 9 inch external walls should be a benefit and so long as i pay attention to insulation and air tightness all should be well.

Fair point on the plans. It was building regs that i had in mind when i mentioned plan changes. The insulation choice at the moment is glass wool batts. The datasheet for these suggests that a +/- 15mm irregularity is fine but i'll need to get creative on the larger spacings.

Timber frame would probably be easier, quicker and maybe cheaper to do but my preference is for an inner leaf. Having read the replies to this and my other thread we are discussing the possibility of timber but new blockwork is looking favourite so far.

Thanks for the replies :) It's an old brick barn and the alterations it has had, roof failing and general movement over time have taken its toll. I've underpinned the entire building and extended the concrete inside to serve the new inner leaf. (My username is based on this joyful task) The leafs will be tied together with wall ties resin bonded into the existing brickwork. Insulation will be full fill. The worst measurement i have shows that one wall is > 100mm out of true at one end due to the wall bowing and twisting at the same time. Most are +/- 50mm at some point along them. If I changed to timber frame now I'd have to submit changes to the plans and whatnot. It's an option i suppose but i'd prefer the new inner leaf.

There are some days when i question my sanity and wonder why i started this seemingly never ending task That's been my experience along the way. I usually find that someone else has been hit with the same or similar issue and some helpful soul has given a solution. Hopefully anything i ask will have similar value to the next googlenaut. Thank you :)

I've got to build inner leaf to create a 100mm cavity against existing 225mm brick outer walls. The existing walls are anything but straight which means that if i built the inner leaf true the cavity will change size quite a bit on some walls. The roof wall plates will be on the new leaf when it is replaced. My question is should i build the inner leaf straight and try to average out the cavity space or should i construct the new leaf to follow the undulations of the existing walls to maintain a 100mm cavity?

Hello Everyone, I've been slowly converting an old brick barn by myself, picking up the skills required along the way. So far I've been able to achieve everything I've needed to by research and reading forums etc. I'm about to embark on building the internal walls to form a cavity and have been unable to find the answers i need, and now it's time for me to post a question I've found that ebuild is no more. So here i am *wave*