Big Neil

I get that you would normally put the pipe in the slab if that's what you've got underneath you, but COULD you adopt the B+B approach of putting everything on top? @willbish - what is this here method for missing your pipes?

I like more or less everything about that. Have I read right that the only access to the kitchen is through the dining room? How come only 3 bed instead of 4?

IN relation to another thread on general build process, a quicker question here specifically about ICF. I'm reading with interest various ways people are going about theirs, just want to understand if the following is a reasonable option. with slab down, assemble first course and pour. Assuming UFH pipes aren't in the slab, lay insulation for this, cover, staple pipes and attach to temp board. Have self levelling screed poured then when set, carry on with the build. HOw does that strike people? Also, if you had a passive raft, could you get away with a much thinner insulation for the UFH in this scenario, say 25mm where if you had a suspended block and beam floor you might have 5 or 8 times that thickness?

Our chemistry teacher was a bell otherwise i might know more about them there symbols above

will do - thanks

Am i blind or is there no obvious bracket in those last few. HOw are they attached @Alexphd1

ahhhhh - I see. no insulation between the battens at all? Would this be a reasonable option? You know, given that there's a gap there anyway, or just pointless?

I tend to like the idea of a belt and braces approach anyway so i suppose it suits that philosophy plus adds some benefits. Was my process above correct? Sark - batten - membrane - batten?

Coincidentally, what was the lack of joy in finding one? NO one has one available, no one has them full stop? When you needing it?

well no, i just wasn't sure if maybe that one, or if there is a similar one, could take the nails you'll be using. Mind you i suppose id rather squeeze a finger 1000 times than swing my arm the same amount where possible

how about this. I haven't read, but maybe the tip penetration from the head can be adjusted?? https://mymodernmet.com/invention-idea-auto-hammer-michael-david-young/

Also, whilst I think I know what sarking is, why is it not always used? Is it just a belt and braces thing?

So Roof up, osb covering it, battens running top to bottom, then membrane over the top then battens running side to side. Yes/no??

ahhhh - so with a normal nailer you could actually end up shooting the ail through the metal strap then?

hmmmmm - I gogled but found nothing. I'm going back to Encyclopedia Britannica.. Silly question maybe, but why one of those and not a normal nail gun. Sort of sounds like a nail gun for registered blind people, if you see what I mean. If you're looking at what you're nailing, why the need for a detection method?

ahhhhhhh - with you. You've learned me a new thing today - thanks.

Lithium POlymer? Lithium Ion?

What is a 'Positive Placement' nailer as distinct from a 'normal' nail gun?

5KW I think, maximum of 7.... Not really sure how this works, i sort of imagine it as like a clockable system chip in a computer, so in normal circumstances 5 but under some conditions can go higher. You'll understand more than me though so i'll await the enlightenment. What would you say is reasonable for a house. Seems to me that one of the considerations should be 17:00 to 19:00 of an evening. All the kids getting home and throwing the TV/PS4/Bebo box on, charging their phones. Also mummy and daddy arriving home from work and charging the car, people having showers, cooking the tea, boiling the kettle for a drink etc. Surely that ot plus power for heating system, lights etc must add up to more than 5??? .sorry - slight thread hijack

This particular product might not be available over here but i gues a version might be. Anyone seen it/anything similar.

@vivienz, what system do you reckon on going for. So far as i'm aware the Tesla system is still the cheapest watt on watt, but that Sofar system @JSHarris mentioned is not far off. Mind you, there's also that powervault 3 system now which is supposed to allow for those microgeneration payments once the FIT ends.

Pole PLate - gotcha I've watched that video thoroughly now with sound and it makes sense. The Pole plate is held in front of the holes by using screws into the thingamejigs which are also used for plasterboard fixing, Holes drilled through into the holes then anchor bolts inserted from the void side tied if possible against rebar, but pre-tensioned by doing the nut up a bit. Makes total sense. And I suppose it you have already checked the piece you're using as the pole plate is level, you just line the joist hangers up at the top and the floor by association, is level.

Not a problem - Equally happy to have the answer there. A couple of suppliers told me the VAT was rated at 5% if fitted prior to building completion but not as part of a PV package. Not read the rules yet though, so this could be nul.

I get that now - Thanks Russell. Will you be pre hanging to joist hangers onto that plate/rim joist or whatever the correct name is, before or after it gets cemented onto the wall? I guess one could also put a length of maybe 2*4 as the level once the line has been marked and cut the relevant holes UP from that.

Fair point. Mind you, if they use the same principal of measurements and standards as Canada, then I suppose with Nudura being Canadian, i guess it would more likely work ?? Did you peak at that system where they cut holes, inserted bolts then put plates on to prevent spill. What are your opinions on that?