dogman

The big bits are all ok. I did chase some of the small bits around the garden.

quick update before bed. 1st load of insulation arrived today had the perimeter and foul drains in by the time it was dark. Yep that's them in the top right tidying up before they leave

Who is doing your glass balustrade? How did you fit it to satisfy your BC, i think part K protection from failing.

And also suppliers of the glass etc. BC have conditioned ours as they want full details and although we have a few quotes real life examples are better.

Berkshire, near Reading

I found that to get the 10yr warranty you had to use the full system with ProRend it looks good from the made up samples. I have priced up boards etc to see if they are loading the quotes. Knauff were very good helping with the design

I have 800 sq m of the woven black stuff that was under our menage probably throwing it out

I am going through the same thing at present. A company that has a lot of followers on a plasterers forum is ProRend although I have yet to get quotes from the three recommend installers

@Nickfromwales can you use an off the shelf indirect copper stainless steel cylinder or would you use one with a high efficiency coil

Next simple thing. If you use a tank with coil (of any type) and wish to use the buffer tank to carry out DHW uplift aswell, would the HP be connected to the volume and the cold main feed to your hot water system of choice be connected to the coil.

Thanks @Nickfromwalesand @TerryE That's what i needed from the boffin's, a dummies guide to components without the added calculations.

A picture paints a thousand words- or something like that @TerryE Will the pump draw well enough through the mixer/blending valve if only partially open? If it does it will no doubt do the same for a buffer tank if used instead of a Plate Heat Exchanger

Ok not much progress today. Not MBC fault at all but Hanson aggregates. The binding dust was meant to be on site Tuesday but didn't turn up till this afternoon. They went off to another site rather than sit around and wait. Hopefully back tomorrow to lay the dust then they are off for St Paddys day The floor arrives Tuesday and Wednesday so should be finished by Friday hopefully with the concrete the following Monday.

Ok now i am getting really confused. I think i will have to spend Friday( when MBC are drinking copious amounts of guiness) reading all the referenced posts and try and make some sense of the different systems. Biggest change that appeals is the use of sunamps as i will have 4K plus of pv if the DNO allows an extension to my system ( i wont get any extra FIT though)

trying to get my head around this found this on line Taking into account that this is probably two floors so you can discount zones 3 and 4 from what i am trying to establish This shows a heat pump pumping into a TS or BT. A pump with bypass valve it then goes to the zones where there is a motorised valve a blending valve then the manifold pump so the system has three pumps This is what i understand to be a blending valve set Will one of these pull water from the buffer tank if they do why have a pump at the buffer tank?

Ok air source Heatpump is for heating only and not DHW There is a 6m run between Heatpump and manifold

Just checking the acronyms and abbreviations back in a second

Don't worry, its why i ask questions and eventually learn

Half 8 this morning as they had to go to builders merchants still out there at 7 in case

As @TerryE stated it can be complex or simple. Our current cottage system has the heat pump feeding the buffer vessel and the underfloor heating pumps draw from the buffer vessel. Its controlled by simple electronic timers and two poly pipe 4 zone controllers,that cost next to nothing on ebay. It does have zone control but as others have found you tend to set every zone downstairs to the same temp as the MVHR tends to even out the temperature. It looks like the best option is Simple so do away with the pump set and blender valve. Use the heat pump to supply the buffer vessel at low temperature. Use a pump to supply the manifold don't use zone control but install the wiring should it be needed in future Install one master time and temp controller and use the heatpump controller to manage the system on and off times. Question about the buffer tank is as stated by @PeterW should the buffer tank be a heat exchange to reduce inhibitor costs or just a vessel to hold a volume of water. If so is it best to get a dedicated heat exchanger or use a tank with a coil

They got on well today despite a rather complicated ring beam for the plinth and brickwork Had to kick them off the site when it got dark. However they are nearly finished the slab base and will install the sand binding tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for the interest and help. So Heat pump has an integral pump that will provide flow to the buffer tank. The buffer tank will hold a volume of water at a higher temp than the floor.( Is this actually needed if the heat pump modulates?) Sounds like i then need a pump to feed the blending valve and pump set at the manifold, which in turn circulates the water round the loops. If I am only running one zone over all the loops then i don't need motorised valves on each circuit, all i need is to lock them open and balance the flow on each circuit. It seems to me that three pumps is not exactly economic If heat pump is set to near the flow temp required by the floor and feeds into the buffer vessel, then what would be the result of doing away with the blender valve set and using a single pump to provide flow through the buffer tank into the floor loops. Control would be a single timed thermostat that would switch the pump on when heat needed in the rooms (somehow). When the temp drops in the buffer tank it will switch on the heat pump and heat the tank. May be able to set some sort of temperature differential to reduce cycling or do away with the buffer tank and the heat pump supplies the blender valve and pump. Will this work?

That's good to hear. We are using the same windows from the uk supplier Munster and a couple of the competitors have tried to put us off.

Based on the collective opinion of those who have systems what is the best design for controlling underfloor heating in a passive house. The traditional current plan is for five zones on the ground floor only. 50lt buffer tank from a modulating air source heat pump zone control and 5 thermostats So do i need five zones If not how do I control the system. Do i have one zone downstairs, No valves on the manifold. Maybe one control valve to open the flow and one central thermostat and a mixer valve set to supply 23-25 deg floor temp and a circulator running to balance the slab temp Advise and help please

My invert level is about 50mm below the bottom of the sub base. They will dig them into the sub base when its down.