zoothorn

Hi- another question on this please. Can the frame be fitted from the inside-? The reason I ask, is the existing frame is tighter on the outside in its reveals (width is the thing) with contoured 'fake stonework' reveal render, which would be a shame to hack off too. The inside is alot cleaner/ squarer, I think it would be easier to fit any new frame from this side. Thanks zoot.

hey that might even work out to be cheaper still. Its cute stuff I like it already.. gonna look great. Onoff should write a book: " 'Gizmos & Gubbins' (How to help an idiot tart up their gaff)".

@Onoff btw that mini gutter.. looks a fab suggestion. They do a kit with all bits n bobs, for both sides, downpipes, with xyz bits/ the lot for £70 which I think is darn good. Just add 4x swan neck offsets to get the downpipes tucked in flush to cabin sides.. & its all bits sorted in one go. Black methinks. I bet its a -really- satisfying & simple job too.. unlike my last hand-fking-up frame scraping/ godawful job. You are nothing short of an enclyclopedia for the right gizmo Onoff! & wtf I'd have done without it.. I've no idea. thx.

@Onoff thx yup I guessed they went under here, well they cant go anywhere else (apart from onto the topside).. but they seem longer than my overhang here, so they'd either need cutting down, or, inserting somehow into the side structure of the top of the wall. But Im likely a country mile off!

Which suggests they're usually fitted after the rafter.. but before the perpendicular roof surface, wood in my case, sandwiched in between-? Am I anywhere close?!

Yup thats a good idea.. I was gonna do this, the carpets a good idea too. The tiles are 1 - 1/4" H in fact, so call them 1-1/2" with adhesive they will protrudue up into my slate by a bit.. its not such an easy decision this. Hmm..

Joe the 1830 slate threshold is 2", & I have 1" below it to the concrete floor. Spot on 3". As the frame is 70-1/4" H (to the plant on).. I actually do a tiny stoop to go in/ out, Im so used to it Ive only conked me noggin twice. So the 3" is kinda 'in use' as a step-down-into porch, as well as a from it a step-into-house. I think. The concrete floor is good & 'ok' flat, but for a dip-away along one side I can make up fine using/ building up more adhesive I'd say (& usefully, will be hidden under future prayer bench too.. RHS of house wood door, opposite front door/ porch upvc door). Slate slab is 2-1/2" H in fact, 1/2" wear patch worn away over nearing 200 years.

Hi Peter- useful suggestion: so these fit to the underside of the overhanging roof? presumably not fixed to the topside thru felt etc, tho it would be 'surer' this way of course.. thanks for that- zH

Looking good Onoff, stood up well to gales/ no problem/ solid. Decking starting to become uneven on surface, but minor. I have bad water ingress @ door & @ front window, around the panes & in thru the t&g area below the glass on the door. The front faces the weather bigtime. Door shrinks alarmingly by 8mm (just at latch side) in winter too, so door wouldn't close! I used it for work last summer, great. But now work shifted to my proper workshop/ extention lower room.. its actually only been used as garden tool storage. I know it's use will fall into place, come to me in time.. maybe my overnight quarters if I b&b my bedroom 2 (my old master bedroom) from earliest next summer (if I pull the stops out). It's just lovely to 'have the luxury' of the knowledge of an extra room as it were for now, even if I just potter in it. I use the deck every opportunity tho- sit in the sun with beer & snax, above/ next to stream.

@joe90 well thin normal tiles are an idea.. but I'm saving £60+ using my tiles. What I was wondering is, in order to get a very level surface, which on a floor is important, if you were to press them home firmly (putting 1st an even ammount of adhesive & cris/ crossing it scouring it etc).. then you have a definitive & uniform 'stop' (that being the concrete below) in order to make one perfectly level to the next. Plus in my case.. it reduces the height by 5mm which I need. Adhesive will squidge more out/ up between tiles of course. I'm not sure I'm butch enough for angle grinders like you rufty tufty lot. I borrowed one to nip the steel bars to right length, for my cabin base me bending over & attacking each one on the ground between my legs.. but I almost set my own arse on fire (&/ or my own nutsack). I did have the stream next to me thankfully. thx zH

Wow simple as that.. & spent ages trawling 'log cabin gutters' (& bought various full size flowline bits few weeks ago too/ i can now rtn). So simple when you know what to look for! great- thx

@joe90 I'm mulling over whether adding so much height with my tiles might bodge up my entrance to house, where my slate threshold/ pine door is. I had thought adding this ammount of height good, because it negates the step-in/ over, at my upvc door/ porch entrance from outside. Now I'm not so sure it's wise. Plus cutting the sods too.. I have no angle grinder. If I were to go with the idea (it -is- the cheap option) using my heavy 9x9 tiles, & as Ive never tiled a floor before: can they squash down/ be pressed right down, so the adhesive adds only a mm or so in height-? what I mean is, the contour of the slates underside, has slightly raised trench sections, uniformly all over (possibly mfr with cement/ adhesive in mind) where adhesive would 'pool' & so be a few mm's more than say the outer edge. I wonder if pressing each tile down firmly is the very idea maybe? If the adhesive adds say 1/4" in height to the tile.. it's too much. I'm constantly skimming me noggin on me plant-on.

Hi- back to this log cabin job. Guttering advice if someone would please. One side only, top LHS needs guttering. Would you just use standard roofing 'square Marley flowline' stuff? as you get brown it'll blend in, but a bit big/ heavy duty for a cabin I'm wondering/ not correct for the job-? Does it need dedicated 'cabin guttering' I wonder, fixing brackets to consider with the extra area of roof overhang they have (compared to my extention's plastic soffit only 1 to 2 " away from the very edge of roof slates the brackets attatch to). Afaict dedicated cabin gutter brackets attatch to the roof edge, use a 65mm or 100mm gutter. The normal roof gutters like Marley have brackets designed to fix to soffits with a bit wider (than 100mm) 4.5" width gutter .. so I'd need to fettle additional wood packing to get me out to the right position if using Marley brackets: not too difficult using the 12cm 'excess' section of walls that protrude I could attatch packing to. thanks- zoot schmoot

Hi @Onoff cheers for this info. Yes understand 20mm would be a huge pain. I'm a bit reticent tho of exact same size/ sods law I'll struggle & have to hack away, so I'll go 5mm allround less I think.. use those placcy packers whilst foaming &/ or screwing frame in. Just a nice clear patch now to do it.. as it'll take me a week min! Will look into White Gold too.

Joe youve set me on a new course. What I have, is 50x, 9x9" one inch+ thick, reclaimed ( from here!) terracotta tiles. A few corners snubbed here n there, old mortar remenants on edges too. Most scruffy so not in a great state.. but Ive worked out I need 52 to cover my porch. Thats pretty amazing luck, if 2 x can be left off under the prayer bench spot. Will these clean up ok do you know? I cant really think what else they could ever be used for apart from floors being so thick/ heavy.. they'd fall off a wall surely! Is your doormat there set down into a recess so top is flush with your tiles? Which look great btw, and skirting etc too. thanks zoot

Actually I have many welsh terracotta tiles, heavy 1.5 x as big as yours here, and 1" thick.. & probably enough to do the job now youVe jogged my memory joe. I wonder if they would be suitble to tile? Im not sure if they are tiles, or wtf they are! But its the old slate threshold & low access frame height im wondering might be compromised by adding say 1.25" H onto the concrete. Good call though.. id forgotten all about these. All dug out buried under a huge area of bad concrete slab in front of the cottage, used as infill. So free tiles doing it this way. Makes alot of sense. Hmm..

Hi jfb. Yes tiling has started to cross my mind, if I tiled bathroom wall then Im capable, i think. Height. There is a big old threshold 'money shot' lovely slate chunk, which is 2" H, and starts 2" above the concrete floor. And the frame is so low I skim my head going thru, so, this total of 4" I think is useful. If i were to tile, I need to forget the door sill step over now i think.. & do it so it adds as small a height as possible onto my concrete. I was thinking black and white alternate victorian sort of 'smart classy look' marrying with the b&w general cottage walls, beams, black gutters etc. But quite an intricate job, smaller tiles etc, maybe in a symmetrical pattern. Maybe Im overcomplicating it with this idea tho. thanks zoot

You see what I have here, is a sort of step over the door sill, into the porch. 45mm below the door sill. So I was wondering whether this 45 mm step over situation is normal, or, if it shouts 'put a bit of floor on me'.. and should really there always have been something on the concrete to minimise this 45 mm step over thing. Something attractive would sure set of the 'entrance' vibe to the house really well.. tiles? ive no idea of the best ideas for a porch floor to a cottage. What would you do, just lino it? I guess I could for now/ come back to it when the idea comes/ sits correctly.

Hi Onoff. Just refreshing myself on this thread from sept- now my next job, whilst waiting on porch mortar to cure. Your window job looks a very similar job: size, old wood frame > new upvc unit.. so a great reference eg/ super helpful as always. So I see your chip-away ext render bits to aid measurement of your old frame: now did you order your new frame at the same dims? OR subtracted 5mm to top & btm, & both sides too? And was your sill replaced, or came part of the new unit-? ..or maybe you subtracted a safer 10mm all around, as Craig mentions he did with his job. Appreciated- zoot.

Thanks.. just lino really, then paint it. But what are the alternatives to lino? I could always use my 'wood effect' roll i had ready for it (a bit 'nasty' tbh, a cheapo offcut) for my cabin instead. I was wondering if lino might be a bit of a disaster if i have a bit of damp in one corner coming up. At the mo its a concrete floor, not great, bit of a step over the upvc porch door sill.. so could this be built onto say an inch or so. thanks zoot.

Nailed me plant ons on.. but loathed to glue them to the old frame. Couldn't source some nice oak trim.. so had to go with std bloomin stuff, lets the job down i must say/ real shame to hide the pitch pine frame with it. But hey it'll have to do. just varnish the trim to tone them down i think then calling the door done. One frame hole, a knot to find/ shape & fill it. Thanks.. zoot

Aha.. maybe thats why it was in the bargain bin then. Did a proper undercoat too, & great colour I must say from a few feet & more away, but every damn brush stroke 'finish' is visible. Good well Ive learnt another trick then. thanks joe.

shove it up thy spout.

Yes understand its sort of an obvious answer.. just the most recent pine door I did (extention lower room workshop) with a sadolin quality coloured one.. every brush stroke visible/ patch city. Yup clear is the way to avoid this I guess. thanks zH

Just done the job- wool/ spirit then blast it with sander. Nice & quick too. What would be suggestion now? just a basic something on top maybe: its only an average pine door/ not really a looker.. I don't intend to go the 5x layer osmo route treatment!